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Bowsprit on CP-16's

Started by MOlson, February 17, 2015, 03:12:22 PM

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MOlson

I know I've read this before, but of course, can't find it now.

In what year was the bowsprit intro'd on the 16? I believe it enhances handling and speed correct?
If so, in what way?

Do all subsequent years have bowsprits?

Thanks,

Mark O


MOlson

Found my answer in this forum. 1984 was the first year. I thought I saw some later 16's without the "sprit" and I was confused. What else is new?
MO

Salty19

Nah, you're not confused at all.  After Hutchins came out with the version II's, they offered the bowsprit as an upgrade kit to the 16.  Any type I models with bowsprit were added by a prior owner-this isn't all too uncommon.  You can still buy a brand new CP16 bowsprit assembly from Hutchins today, or really any other upgrade part you can think of (lifelines, SS rails, etc).

Yes, all the models CP16II and later came with a bowsprit.  The big difference that you can't change between them all is the aft deck. Early models have a hatch cover in the aft center cockpit bench with direct access below. Later models had no access below and a fuel tank area was created, with PVC ran aft to run fuel line.  The interior on the later models, might need a III or later are rather shippy but the early models are pretty sparse.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

hinmo

my '82 has the sprit, but the forestay is still on the boat....wish it was forward, wonder if I can convert

Salty19

Hinmo,

Well, I think all you need is a bobstay (also called a baby stay) with pin end for the sprit and a tang that would bolt onto the bow eye for the other end. The forestay should extend to the sprit..or so I've read, never tried it personally.  Hutchins can supply you with exactly what you need.

But if you do this the jib sheet won't be oriented correctly as the luff angle is now "off",  so your sail shape may actually be worse than before, requiring a new jib or different sheet point. So maybe when you're in the market for a new jib would be a good time to switch it over.  Also the bow pulpit may or may interfere with the forestay, especially if you use a furler.  I don't recall reading that this is a problem on 16's, but ya never know..

Maybe try attaching the forestay in the driveway first then decide how to proceed. Just don't fly any sheeted jib to test sail angle without support from below the sprit. Maybe some strong rope tied down the trailer can improvise for a test.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

capt_nemo

To all concerned,

Adding a bowsprit provides two distinct advantages to the overall Rig (sailplan).

First, with working jib the overall sail plan Center of Effort (COE) is moved forward which serves to improve balance and decrease weather helm.

Second, it opens up a larger fore triangle area to fly larger headsails more efficiently (easier to tack a large light air DRIFTER).

When making Rig changes go SLOW, think it through completely, and experiment safely if possible.

I designed, fabricated, and installed a 4' Bowsprit on my Sun Cat to experiment and play with various MASTHEAD headsails, especially in light to moderate air. Wound up doubling the shrouds, making an additional quick-release Forestay, and supporting the Bowsprit with chain Bobstay and wire Whisker stays.

Works great.

capt_nemo


Jonah

Quote from: Salty19 on February 17, 2015, 08:23:44 PM
Nah, you're not confused at all.  After Hutchins came out with the version II's, they offered the bowsprit as an upgrade kit to the 16.  Any type I models with bowsprit were added by a prior owner-this isn't all too uncommon.  You can still buy a brand new CP16 bowsprit assembly from Hutchins today, or really any other upgrade part you can think of (lifelines, SS rails, etc).  How far back (model year) do CP16 bowsprit, lifelines, SS rails, etc fit ? (79?)

Yes, all the models CP16II and later came with a bowsprit.  The big difference that you can't change between them all is the aft deck. Early models have a hatch cover in the aft center cockpit bench with direct access below. Later models had no access below and a fuel tank area was created, with PVC ran aft to run fuel line.  The interior on the later models, might need a III or later are rather shippy but the early models are pretty sparse.


Duckie

If you want to play around with rigging up a sprit and you are worried about the sheeting angle, you can rig a couple barber haulers to adjust the sail to whatever shape you want.  I'm not sure how you would do that without drilling holes in your deck, but it could be a worthy addition to your boat. 

Al

Tim Gardner

#8
Here's how an extension of the sprit was done by Dale Smith on his 16:




I'm sure the principle could be used on an early 16 to provide an extension to the bow for very few clams.  
Never Be Afraid to Try Something New, Remember Amateurs Built the Ark.  Professionals Built the Titanic (update) and the Titan Submersible.

Tim

#9
Question to capt_nemo: how did you go about masthead rigging your mast?

I am intrigued and did you reposition your existing shrouds before adding the new set?

Thanks,

Tim

capt_nemo

Tim,

First, all my modifications are designed, fabricated, and installed WITHOUT DRILLING A SINGLE HOLE IN THE BOAT OR PERMANENTLY ALTERING THE BOAT'S STRUCTURE IN ANY WAY. Although this is more difficult and challenging, the result is a modification that can be changed, redesigned, or removed, returning the boat to factory condition if so desired. You, of course, need not be so constrained in your Rig change efforts.

No, I did not reposition the original shrouds before adding the new set. Instead, I added a second forestay tang and shroud tangs to the masthead where a bolt through the mast already held a SS Bail at the masthead used for the peak halyard end and turning block. On deck, the additional masthead shrouds were doubled up on the same chain plates holding the original shorter shrouds. The whisker stays on the front of the bowsprit were terminated on the bolts already holding the original chain plates to the hull. A new mast head forestay was fabricated with quick-release lever like the original shorter quick-release forestay which is retained and made fast to the bow cleat immediately in front of the mast thus serving as a baby stay, adding strength, but well out of the way of the resulting larger fore triangle.

The hinged mast when raised is thus held in position by A DOUBLE SET OF STAYS ALL ROUND, original, and mast head about 4 feet higher. No worrys about Rig failure when flying mast head headsails for this Sailor!

Hope this helps.

capt_nemo


Tim

Capt_nemo,

Wow, what an explanation! Thanks. I did have to read that middle paragraph 5 times, but I think that I understand. :) As I'm rebuilding my 16 I keep contemplating rig modifications. All of this information is motivating me to want to try to, at the very least, add a bowsprit when I get to that point. The addition of the second set of shrouds is also a great idea. I discussed this thought a few months ago with a buddy that I co-rebuilt an old Pearson with and he told me I was crazy. In general he maybe right, but I'm glad to see I'm not alone in thinking extra shrouds is a worthwhile addition to support the rig.

Now what about a boomkin? Ok, maybe now I'm being crazy.

Thanks again,

Tim