News:

Howdy, Com-Pac'ers!
Hope you'll find the Forum to be both a good resource and
a place to make sailing friends.
Jump on in and have fun, folks! :)
- CaptK, Crewdog Barque, and your friendly CPYOA Moderators

Main Menu

Outboard Motor Bracket replacement

Started by jregar, December 06, 2014, 08:13:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

jregar

Just bought a 1993 Com-Pac 23 and noticed rust lines on the transom coming from the outboard motor bracket (Garelick S.S. Ezz-In 2 stoke).
I went into the port cockpit lazarette and discovered the backing plate (1/4" x 12"x12" piece of paneling) with stainless steel bolts, galv. nuts and washers.
Pulled the bracket and noted NO silicone or any type or marine adhesive around the bolts or backing plate holes?

Can this be a factory install?

Has anyone replaced or installed a new outboard motor bracket with alignment and mounting measurements?

Would appreciate any help and advice on this subject.

Capt. Jack

Bob23

Capt Jack:
   While I cannot directly answer your question, I'd like to welcome you to the site. I doubt that's a factory installation but I couldn't say for sure. Sounds like a strange mix of hardware and not something Compac is noted for. If the bracket is ok, why not change all the galvanized stuff for stainless? I'd like to see a more substantial backing plate, maybe a stainless plate, 1/4" thick although I've used hardwoods on other boats.
   And definitely use an sealant in and around the holes...maybe 4200- please do yourself a favor and don't use 5200.
   The rust is probably from the galvanized although I usually have small rust lines from my stainless bolts that are easily removed with On-Off but then again I sail in salt water.
   So, where are you located? Tell us more about yourself and your new 23? And again, welcome.
Bob23 and "Koinonia" - 1985 23/2 in southern NJ

HeaveToo

For sealing things on the boat I have now become informed of butyl tape.  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

The key thing is that it cleans up easy, it is easy to remove if you need to, and it stays flexible.  The flexibility helps it keep a good water tight seal. 

This seems to be a better solution than the 4200 and way better than 5200.
Døyr fe, døyr frender
Døyr sjølv det sama
men ordet om deg aldreg døyr
vinn du et gjetord gjevt

peterg

That outboard bracket installation does not sound like a factory installation, but both of my prior CP19s had the bow eyes installed without sealant and mild steel backing plate and mild steel nuts and washers. They leaked, of course, and were almost impossible to remove and re-bed. Ran into some dubious installations on the CP27 also, but so far, the 23 seems to be free of any shoddy installations. Having owned more than a few sailboats, I have to conclude that CP quality is no better or worse than contemporary production competitors (ie: Beneteau, Hunter, Catalina), but the aesthetically pleasing traditional design of most Compacs garners votes from me. Some would say that the three aforementioned boats would sail circles around a Compac, but others would say that would be to admire the lines of most Compacs!! Not all, but most..............beauty being in the eye of the sailor!!
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
CP-16 Beagle 4 (sold)
CP-19 Athena (sold)
CP-19 Beagle (sold)
CP-27 Afternoon Beagle (sold)
CP-23 Beagle 3  (sold)
Ranger Tug "SisterShip" (sold)
Simmons Sea Skiff 1951 "Rebecca Ann"
Herreshoff America  (the original Horizon!)   (sold)
Arch Davis Wooden Gaff Rigged Dinghy
Windrider 16   2015 (sold)

HeaveToo

peter.....I would say that the sailing characteristics of the Compac are pretty good.  I would also prefer to be in a Compac 23 versus being in a Catalina 22 or Hunter 22 in a blow and rough seas.  That is from experience because 20 knots in the Hunter 22 I had was scary but it was fine in the Compac 23.

They sail well. Maybe not the best in going upwind, but off of the wind they are quick. 

According to PHRF handicap, A Catalina 22 rates 276.  The Compac 23 rates 249.  That means that the Compac owes the Catalina 27 seconds a mile on a race course.  The Hunter 22 is 252, just a little slower than the Compac 23.

If you have questions about the outboard bracket why not speak with the manufacturer.  Compac has excellent customer service and I have exchanged emails with them quite a bit.  They are a great source of information and parts!
Døyr fe, døyr frender
Døyr sjølv det sama
men ordet om deg aldreg døyr
vinn du et gjetord gjevt

peterg

I'd say that the 16, 19, and 23 are the best sailers in the fleet of older boats- I would not give much for the CP27. As to the Catalina 22s- don't hoist more sail than you need and it will do fine. Taught ASA keelboat on Catalina Capri in all conditions- no problem. Can't speak to Hunter 22- never sailed one- but sailed many a race in Hunter 27 (Cherubini design) and would rather be on that boat under any conditions or point of sail than a CP27. Since I don't race or teach anymore, and having gone through four Compacs over the past twenty years, for the daysailing and overnighting that I currently do, a CP 23, I find, is a perfectly satisfactory boat- sails well, decently built, a a great looking boat. Don't think I was generally dissing Compacs- I realistically feel that any manufacturer's fleet has some all stars and some that are somewhat less so.
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
CP-16 Beagle 4 (sold)
CP-19 Athena (sold)
CP-19 Beagle (sold)
CP-27 Afternoon Beagle (sold)
CP-23 Beagle 3  (sold)
Ranger Tug "SisterShip" (sold)
Simmons Sea Skiff 1951 "Rebecca Ann"
Herreshoff America  (the original Horizon!)   (sold)
Arch Davis Wooden Gaff Rigged Dinghy
Windrider 16   2015 (sold)

jregar

This was my fix on the bracket. 

Bought a G-10 fiberglass board (outside spacer 1/2" thick 12"x12" and rounded edges) and made a 1/2" plywood PT backing plate and painted with thickened fiberglass- coated 3 times.

Removed the old outboard bracket and replaced with Garelick 71033 Stainless Steel.  Filled the old holes with Marine Tex white and re-drilled from outside.

Replaced SS bolts and also added SS fender washers inside against the 1/2" plywood backing plate, bedded the bolts, nuts and washers with 4200 3M.

Reason for adding the outside 1/2" G-10 spacer was the old bracket kept hitting the stern rub rail and this allowed the new bracket to freely traverse the vertical distance.

Have pictures, but couldn't figure out how to add to this post...