crack in keel -- glass and/or epoxy?

[Liane]

Hi guys

So the more I get into fixing this boat, the more problems I find.  But I'm thinking this is one of the LAST ones before I put her on the water...  (What have I gotten myself into?!?!?!)

The same rain water that rotted the cabin liner and the bulkhead accumulated in the keel as well, and put a small crack in the side of the keel (over the winter).

CAN I just spread epoxy over this 4 inch crack to seal it, or do I need a glass patch?

Also, IF I drill a hole in the bottom of the keel to make sure all the water is out, do I need a glass patch there or just epoxy?

Basically, will epoxy seal on its own in a non-structural application?

Thanks! 

Liane

[sawyer]

I'm no expert, but this guy "DON CASEY" is, I have his book, THIS OLD BOAT....

try this link.........

http://www.boatus.com/howto/howto_lib.htm

[Pat McL]

Hi Liane
  Had exactly the same problem. Check the other side of the keel as well, as you may have a coresponding crack there as well. Drill a small hole (larger in diameter than the width of the crack) through the glass & gel coat on both ends of the crack to relieve the strain.

Epoxy alone doesn't have the tensile strength to really repair the crack properly. You will need to use glass as well. Sand off the gel coat around the crack to provide bonding surface, and use a good quality woven glass cloth with epoxy (not polyester or polyvinylester - has to do with coefficient of linear expansion and osmotic absorption of the polymers - used to be a chemist). Check out Mas epoxy on the web, they have a fine product. I built up about three layers of the cloth imbedded in the resin. Sanding, barrier coat etc to follow.. You should use a slow cure resin for greater bond strength.

The hole drilled to allow water to exit can be filled with epoxy mixed with chopped glass fiber. You can use a bit of the extra cloth and some scissors to make this. Make sure that all water has drained, took about two weeeks for me to be sure, and make sure that the rig is tilted to allow drainage through the hole.

Make a proper repair. This is important , so take your time.

Do not venture into the wild blue without repairing this properly, as you don't want to become one with the water. It is as embarassing as launching your tow vehicle. You need to be able to hold your head high in thes forum, because I am sure that nobody here has ----well, you know ---  Pat

P.S> I was hoping that someone here has had experience regarding my last post re the rigging---

[Liane]

Hello to you incredibly helpful folks out there!

PAT!! 

Thank you SO much for the detailed explanation (funny enough, I too have experience as a chemist,  only with pharmaceuticals...seriously).

So, I slanted the trailer forward and drilled a 1/8" hole at the lowest point in the keel and went in about 3" and got nothing but "keel-stuff" (balaste?), i.e. no space or gap where water might accumulate...

IS the keel filled completely at the bottom, only leaving space higher up where water could accumulate ?  (The crack is actually only about 8" from top of keel.)

ALSO, IF I build up several layers of glass fiber over the crack in the keel, won't there be a sort of mound bulging out?  How would one get this to blend?  If I sand it down all the way, what would the point be of adding so many layers in the first place? 

AS you can see, body work is not my strength...

THanks for responding so quickly -- my internet has been down, so I'm just getting to it now! 

(Also:  Sawyer -- will check out that link next, thanks!).

Liane

[Craig Weis]

The keel repair is interesting. I had no idea.
A four inch crack, I guess that is four inch long x how wide? Width of crack is?

I would think to combat the build-up of cloth and resin that the crack ought to be gouged out deeper and wider. Kind of opened up to allow for the build up of new material...[that is what we do everyday to weld up aluminum on Palmer-Johnson yachts] By having a greater depth, the cloth if used with epoxy, can be worked into and ground/sanded flush with the hull creating a 'fair line'.

In the wooden boatbuilding class at the Door County Maritime museum and Light House Preservation Society our mistakes in the wood were covered up and smoothed to a no see-it condition by using two part West Epoxy with a West silica additive and sometimes mahogany wood dust if it was to be seen under the spar varnish.

Well maybe just gouge it fill it sand it paint it and forget it. skip.

[Liane]

My new concern is this:

the crack goes through the entire keel surface, as water was leaking out.

Do I sand down to the ballaste and then build up??!?!?!

Or leave some of the crack, and just patch over it?

Trying to do this today, so I might just go for it before responses...YIKES!

Liane

[Liane]

p.s. the crack is a thin, spidery crack, very very thin but veiny, about 4" in length.