CP 23 interior panels

[archimedes]

Can anyone give me an idea about what's involved with removing and replacing the interior side panels.  The ones where the chain plates connect on the inside (they're white and have strips of teak attached just above the cabin cabinets).  Other than removing the chain plate hardware,  what is holding the panels in place?

Anyone done this?  What did you replace them with?

Thanks

[thomeng55]

Hi... I recently took my off to inspect the chainplates, etc.  I have some pics of the removal... I'll get  them posted in a few minutes.  The panels remove pretty easy.  Remove the teak trim - just unscrew them.  try to keep track of which screws go where... I have 3 different sizes of screws. There were a couple of small screws holding the white liner panel in place... remove them and the panel comes off.  Very easy.

[thomeng55]

[archimedes]

Thanks for the pics and useful info.

What material did you use to replace the panels?

[rmotley]

I replaced with a white Fiberglass Wall panel from Lowes - won't stain or retain water once another leak occurs - $33.00 a sheet - worked for me - glued the teak back in place with adhesive.

Panolam 0.09-in x 4-ft x 8-ft White Frp Fiberglass Reinforced Wall Panel

Item #: 8566 |  Model #: 8566

[archimedes]

I replaced with a white Fiberglass Wall panel from Lowes - won't stain or retain water once another leak occurs - $33.00 a sheet - worked for me - glued the teak back in place with adhesive.

Panolam 0.09-in x 4-ft x 8-ft White Frp Fiberglass Reinforced Wall Panel

Item #: 8566 |  Model #: 8566

I was looking at that exact stuff at Loews the other day. 

Did you face the smooth side toward the cabin or the hull.  Seems like a good product for the job.

[rmotley]

Personal opinion - I put the texture side out - it breaks up any imperfections in my work (plenty of those).  While you have the original panels off - take time to seal up the joint between the cabin top / hull along with the bolts for the chain plates.  I replaced both the cabin and V-berth panels and used 5200 and a putty knife (messy but effective) to smooth out the compound.  Also took off the rub rail and did the same drill on the exterior joint all the way around. 

Gluing the teak in place takes some planning to keep them level with the cabinetry once the new panels are installed - I used the old panels as a template and marked locations of the strips.