The challenge of Mature boats

[deisher6]

Wednesday I headed out for Hancock Creek, MCAS Cherry Point.  Fortunately there was a good breeze from the NE, because just as I cleared the draw bridge that separates the Neuse River from the Trent the engine stopped.

Quickly tried battery #2.  Nothing, which made sense since everything else electrical, radio, auto helm, depth sounder, was working.  The wind was pushing me away from the bridge so I had a minute to think about what to do.  Put up the main and headed down the Neuse.  I took a peek in the engine compartment, noted that the fuel pump was not running, and jiggled a few connections.  Still nothing.

The Neuse is fairly shallow and you can anchor nearly everywhere, but with a good breeze it can be uncomfortable.  So I headed over to Upper Broad Creek and anchored off of Blackbeard Yacht Club.

Looking at the wiring diagram, don't leave home without it, I noticed a 30 amp inline fuze between the ammeter and the ignition switch.  Checked it with a continuity light.  There was no voltage at either end of the fuse.  Then checked the plug that connects the engine harness with the panel harness and found good voltage there.  

TURNED ON THE KEY! There still was not any current at the ignition switch end of the fuse.  

Turns out that the connection at the end of the fuse was intermittent, even though it looked good.  Removed the wire and cleaned it up with some contact cleaner and it worked until I reinstalled it.  It did not work until I jiggled it more.  The fuel pump started working, started the engine and ran it for 1/2 hour hauling the anchor and motoring out to the Neuse.  

Sailed to Oriental, motor started when it was needed.  Bought a new inline fuse and holder (with spare) this morning and traded out the part.  Good as new.

What will happen next?  Older boats are interesting.



regards charlie

[BobK]

I would hate to be a boater without some mechanical ability.
BobK

[capt_nemo]

After thousands of cruising miles in both sail and power I share this not so simple fact:

Either know how to fix what's broke (with spares & tools) or live without it!

For example, replaced a high output alternator (whose bearings froze) and its drive belt on my YANMAR Diesel in about an hour while drifting in calm winds in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay. Wife maintained watch topside to make sure we stayed out of the shipping channel. Afterwards continued on our journey.

capt_nemo

[deisher6]

Hey Capt'n:
Good point.  and

You got me thinking about my extra alternator that I do not keep on the boat.  Might just as well store it on the boat where I keep the extra v-belts.  It could save some towing problems. 

Now if I can just remember where I put it!

regards charlie

[Tim Gardner]

Charlie likes to self denigrate.  His boat and home are superbly squared away. He knows where it is.
Buddy says hello, Charlie

[Citroen/Dave]

I have an older C16/2 with a forward battery, long jumper cables, and an electric motor.  I have installed battery clamps at both ends of the cable so that I can haul an extra battery in the stern if I want: plug ins at both ends for all the minor amperage electronic stuff at each end.  In the Spring I cleaned all the new battery clamps and the new forward battery post and installed those red and black terminal cloth gaskets that are supposed to slow down corrosion.  Yesterday, after a sail and light use of the trolling motor, I tried to charge the forward battery from the aft end of the cables.  My charger would only hit 90% charge. Thinking that strange on a new battery, I moved the charger into the cabin and attached the charger directly to the battery post, as a test. The battery was at 100% charge.

This very informal test of corrosion at the battery terminal had a surprise result: a stored battery with "corrosion protection" had enough thin film corrosion on the post to affect the charger, after only two and a half months.  I have sailed on Smith Mountain Lake this summer; no salt water environment.

I think the moral of this story is, clean your battery terminals regularly and keep them tight, not temporally slipped on.  Check all high amperage connections regularly. Use some proven method to slow down corrosion of all critical connections and especially the high amperage connections.  I'm now thinking of using a leaded paint from Auto Zone that is formulated to stop corrosion of automotive battery terminals, at the battery post and elsewhere. Not only does it fill the gaps and keep the moisture out, it probably conducts some electricity as well.  Any thoughts out there?

The previous owner of my boat had an insulation melt down and almost a fire on a slightly corroded wing nut connection, trolling motor to battery. I use plug in connections.

My plug in connections are greased with silicon grease to prevent corrosion. My airline mechanic friend suggested not to do this because the silicon grease is a dielectric, with an ability to act as an insulator. I think the corrosion protection out weighs the insulation effect of the grease.  I think I still have a lot of metal to metal contact even if the pores of the metal are filled with grease.  What are your thoughts?

[capt_nemo]

Citroen/Dave,


Your comments about corrosion, protection, and tight connections are spot on.

However, a lot of battery chargers sense the voltage at the battery to yield the % Charge figure. The reason you got a 100% reading on the battery with charger hooked up outside is that you had it hooked up charging moments before from the aft ends of the cables. When you hooked up inside, the battery was still "pumped up" from being charged moments before and the charger sensed a voltage that would be considered 100%. My charger does the same thing if a battery clamp accidentally slips off or is disconnected and immediately reconnected. The problem is that my "smart" charger will not go into the proper charging mode because upon reconnecting it senses a higher voltage and considers itself "done" and I get a "charged" indicator light. My only alternative is to let considerable time pass and recharge later.

REMEMBER: Voltage (as measured by meter) is a good, and accurate indicator of state of charge (%) ONLY when sensed on a battery that has "rested" (no loads) for at least 12 hours. Longer is better.

I agree with your airline mechanic friend. Recommend you do not use silicon grease on your plug-in connectors. Just check them often, keep them clean, and try to protect them from moisture as best you can. Your trolling motor draws a lot of current (amps) and needs the largest, cleanest, and tightest connections possible. Otherwise, you may find that the battery works too hard trying to pump the needed amps across a hit and miss connection and there will be heat build-up. Whether it can be dangerous or not is hard to tell. Depends on the size and length of your "long" cables. There is indeed a lesson to be learned by the fire and insulation meltdown experienced by the previous owner due to corrosion preventing GOOD AND FULL METAL TO METAL CONTACT at the high amp connection.

Hope this helps.

capt_nemo