Pulling Halyards from the cockpit

[Jonah]

I was searching and found a couple posts on pulling halyards from the cockpit.  Does anybody have any new thoughts / pictures on the topic?
i will be flying solo most of the time and this would make life a lot easier.  And what works well for getting stubborn marks / stains from the gel coat?
Thank you, blessings,  'J'ene  ;-)

[Jason]

Greetings,

The attached link will take you to the post showing how I routed the jib halyard jib down haul to the cockpit.  The down haul (red flecked) always stays in place and can be seen in the photo.  The halyard finds it's way to the cockpit through the empty blocks which you see bolted to the roof and then through the empty camlock. 

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=5657.0


As far as tough stains you can try some "soft scrub", the kind that has bleach in it, scrubbed with a 3m pad.   This will remove any wax , so you would need to wax afterwords.

Jason

[Salty19]

Not sure I would use a 3M pad, those can be pretty abrasive and might leave you swirl marks to polish out. I say that because most of the 3M pads you see available in stores are on the scratchy side if you ask me. They sell finer grades, and those would work.

Try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and Chlorox Spray Cleaner with bleach.
Great for tough stains, and this is won't get it off, try 400grit sandpaper.

Those brown waterline stains can be removed with FSR, On/Off, Barkeepers friend, or Starbrite Hull cleaner (acid based, be careful to use gloves/goggles)

As for the halyard, I  put a little ronstan swivel cam cleat with lead on our 16 for the halyard to hold it fast, a standup block and turning block through the deck to lead the line cleanly.



Or you could put a shackled standard block on the mast step and lead it to a small cleat on the doghouse.  The reason I didn't use that setup is the tripping hazard-the line is not held to the deck, and the cam cleats are easy/fast to use, easier for reefing too.  You can see the small black nylon cleat to the right, this is a prior owner installed setup.  I meant to remove them, was always stepping on them, but sold the boat.

[Cevin c Taylor]

As to pulling the halyard from the cockpit, I rigged my jib halyard to a small block attached to the mast tabernacle, and then routed to a cam cleat mounted between the cabin "roof" slide and the teak grab handle.  In my mast tabernacle, there are four small holes.  I'm not sure what they're for, but I put a small stainless steel chain link through one of them (the kind of link that you can close up by screwing it down), and then I used that to attach a block I had left over from something.  I think a block on a swivel attachment would be better, but I didn't have one.  You can just see the block at the base of the mast in the first pic after the map on this trip report.  It has the advantage of using an existing hole, and avoiding putting more holes in the cabin roof. 
http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=6738.0

[Jonah]

Thank you all for your responses.  The other day I was looking at a picture of a cheek block on either side of the mast up about a foot up from the deck.  The halyards came down through the blocks and diagonally  across to outside edge of the cabin top,  where a small horned cleat was used secure them.  I thought I had saved it, but for the life of me can not find it.  Sure would like to look at it again and  speak to the engineer of this system.   

Thanks,  'J'ene  :-)

[Salty19]

That will work, but sounds like a tripping hazard. Do you really want that line a foot off the cabin top angling across where you might need to step up on deck?

I vote get it close to the deck as possible or try to tie it off as inward as possible.

There are also mast mounted blocks and cam cleat combo's that would screw into the base of the mast on either side. It's not like you can't reach that spot in a 16 from the companionway, it would work really well and not clutter up the deck at all.

[Jonah]

You are right that could very well could  be a tripping hazard.  Had not thought of that.  Still wish I could find that picture to take another look.  Thanks again, blessings, 'J'ene

[wordnut]

If your scuffs are caused by someone wearing the wrong shoes (often the case), acetone is the trick.

[JTMeissner]

This may be an example of what you are looking for: http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=5216.msg36597#msg36597

The cheek blocks on the mast were a Compac option, but agreed that a couple upright blocks and turning blocks on the deck are more aesthetically pleasing.  While I'm working on all the cracks in my gel goat and adding other hardware, I've thought about running the halyards back along the hatch edge. Another option is how Gabi went about it (same thread).

-Justin

[Jonah]

Thank you Justin,  that is what I was looking for.  Thank you, thank you!!  I ordered the hardware today.

  On my boat it looks like that halyards are about 5/16, and I noticed on the Specification and Data Sheet it calls for 1/4" Sta-Set.  I'm thinking that 1/4" would be hard to work with. I have not measured my halyards but they look plenty long enough to work with coming through the cheek blocks.  What are the lengths of your halyards, same as specification call for? 

It is so nice to have such a large base of knowledge at one's fingertips, many thanks, blessings, 'J'ene  ;-)   ___/|\_

[Tom Ray]

I had to make the halyards a few feet longer than the specs to lead them to the cockpit.

I'd put the turning blocks on the mast, not on the deck.

My reason: the turning blocks were one place that deck hardware leaked, destroying the original cabin top core. A leak into the mast has no consequences.

Stainless hardware mounted to an aluminum mast in saltwater does have consequences. I'd recommend coating the stainless parts with Tef-Gel.