New Halyards and Topping Lift Help

[Saluki86]

I am thinking about replacing the main and jib halyard as well as the topping lift of my C16.  I found this link from a previous post for the size and length of the halyards (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=1093.0).  Thanks for posting that but was curious about type, source and brand.  Some I have found were:

VPC
Sta-Set
Samson XLS
NE Rope

I am not a racer (weekend cruiser) and just have the standard main and jib so I am thinking something middle of the road as far as price and performance.  I am looking for something that will last several seasons, not chaff or kink.  I am also replacing my topping lift.  The link above didn't have any dimensions for it but it is rather small....perhaps 1/8"(?).

Any advice, guidance or experiences would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Saluki

[skip1930]

Well I'd size the line for about 60 pounds, Sta-Set, non stretch line.

skip.

[brackish]

Sta Set is fine, that is what I used, however, unless you are going to let the supplier do the eye splice onto the shackle, stay away from Sta-SetX.  I bought some for a spinnaker halyard and after three failed attempts to eye splice that stuff, I went back to regular Sta-Set.  X has less stretch but too hard to deal with the eye splice.

I used 1/4" for my topping lift, but only because it is the smallest that would work in an available rope clutch that I had.  If you are making the topping lift adjustable and will have to handle it I wouldn't go less than 3/16"  That is what my furler line is and I think that is on the edge of being uncomfortable to handle.

[NateD]

I ordered all new lines for a 16 this winter from Cajun Ropes (http://www.cajunrope.com/), I got the Cajun XLE. 1/4" for the halyards and topping lift (which will be a backup halyard), and 5/16" for the main and jib sheets (a little bigger to make it easier on the hands). I think the 2 halyards, topping lift, 2 sheets, and new furling line (don't recall the size) came out to about $115 delivered. I did not have splices put in the halyards, I'll just be tying a halyard knot and save the $.

[Saluki86]

Thanks for all the help.

I have been tying a loop with a bowline knot and using a shackle to attach to the main and jib.  Is that ok?  Haven't had any kind of issue but after seeing all the splicing options, I was wondering if using a shackle/knot arrangement was ok.

[MaritimeElevation]

Go with basic Sta-Set, purchase a fid set and start splicing. It is simple and rewarding. While there is nothing wrong with a bowline to shackle, an eye splice to shackle is stronger and less prone to failure. Below is a link to easy to follow eye splice instructions from the late great Andy Wall. I learned how to splice from this video several years ago. Now I do all my own splicing (and splice for friends) on a variety of different line types. For the beginner, stick with a basic double braid dacron line (such as basic Sta-Set) and do the simple core to cover eye splice shown in the video. As brackish learned, the core to core eye splice required for Sta-SetX is more difficult to finish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UghIS9xdiDw

When splicing a small diameter line such as 1/4" I find it easier to add one step that Andy does not. Taper the core in the same way that he tapers the cover. It will make the second pass with the fid much easier.

[capt_nemo]

Saluki86,

Whatever you do use decent quality Dacron line for Halyards.

Recommend 3/16" Dacron line for a Topping Lift. That is what I use, led back to the cockpit, and it works just fine.

Your bowline and shackle method of halyard attachment is good enough.

Should you ever loose a shackle or have one fail consider the attachment shown in the photo sequence below. It is an old, time-tested, and traditional method.

Start with a loop in the halyard pushed through the Head cringle.



Then pass a loop formed by the free end through the first loop formed.



Finally, grab the free end and pass it through the second loop, locking it in place.



Pull tightly until all is snugged up and tight.



The second loop locks the first loop and the very end finally locks the second loop.

Don't worry, it will NOT come loose or shake out!

I use it on this boat.



capt. nemo

[Saluki86]

All,
Thanks for the tips, links, and photos.  Very much appreciated.
Saluki

[JBC]

Want to add one other option that may still be available for splicing halyard lines: the splicing nut.  Several years ago, Sail Magazine did an article on InoDesign's Splicing Nut.  I don't know if these are readily available today for purchase (several packages show up on ebay and CL after a quick search; seems they are popular in the UK).  I've used the nuts I bought a number of years ago on several small boats when re-rigging recently, and find they work really well and reduce catching and hanging up on things that regular knots are prone to do. 

Here is a video on how they work.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dW6UzMU_6P8  Might be an option for rigging new halyards without regular splicing, especially the 1/4 in. size halyards.

Jett