New Project- Lots of Work Ahead! PICS

[skip1930]

This is the CP-16 I suggested to forget about right?

O.K. no big deal. You asked, " You can see the light going through underneath and through the middle on the left side. Do I just try to brace this area? "

I assume that the light you speak about is daylight filtering through perfectly good fiberglass matt used to create the shape of the hull right?
Once you get it clean and dry, painting with a few coats of Rustoleum Grey enamel will stop the light from coming through. I like this oil based enamel because it dries slow and smooth and hard like a rock.

I scrapped all the paint away under my CP-19 port-a-potty where my bilge pump sits. I didn't want paint being sucked up into the pump when I really needed to pump. Great place for ice and beer. And yes the day light comes through where the paint is not.

Cut off the round compression post and grind and drill it out of the vee birth deck. And put in a new one.
The bulkhead which is nothing more then a piece of plywood going across, port to starboard needs to either be kept in place and a backing board cut and fitted and glued on the INSIDE. Do CP-16's normally have hatches in front of the compression posts?

I don't think I'd go to the trouble of taking the old rotted wood out. Fitting a new structural thwart will never be right and too much work.
Make a template and cut a new piece and glue it in with SixTen thickened epoxy or West System epoxy mix and thickened, and fabricate a temporary wedge to push the new wood on to the old wood till it cures.

Heck forget that ... just shoot some deck screws through and snap off the pointy end that comes out.
Then back the deck screw off a half a turn to pull the snapped off end below the wood.
The new wood can be cut to what ever size is needed to fit it.

The cabin side of the old wood, since it is visible will need drying, sanding, filling, smoothing, and painting. Then call it quits. You may want to upholster that surface with some glued on material. You can cope the new compression post to fit on the new wood for a nice vertical fit.  

That overhead delamination ... SixTen again or your favorite goop and prop it up till it's cured. Clean-up any drips. Strong like bull.

The mast step? I'd use a 4-1/2 inch grinder with a flapper sanding disc and work my way down to the fiberglass from the top down to the bad rotted wood. Follow the raised pattern around where the tabernacle is. Don't go any bigger than necessary. Dig out the plywood. There is a chance the inside of the overhead can be saved if carefully sanded, filled and painted after a new plywood hard point is made and fitted above the overhead and epoxied in. Some glass impregnated cloth built up to the right height and you have it made.

Slap the compression post up there and shot two lag bolts through the thwart. Don't attach the compression post to anything on the overhead. The post will sit two fingers above the bottom of the boat.

1/4-20 Bolts or screws The factory screwed down the tabernacle probably so they didn't have to deal with the 1/4 inch bolts from popping through the overhead. Or maybe screws are used as a break-a-way for the mast if it falls. I don't know. Your call.

When my buddy's tabernacle gave way while pushing the mast up on his CP-19 we cleaned out the area, filled the rotted area with copious amounts of Marine-Tex drilled clean through what was left of the hard point and bolted the tabernacle down with 1/4" bolts, washers, finishing washers, and ny-loc nuts. Once cured R&R'ed the ny-locs with acorn nuts and washers. About two hours later we were sailing to the dock from the ramp.

You have a good start on the quarter births ... cut out the wood with a saber saw and leave a 1/2" edge to drop and glue new boards down. Sand and paint. Might want to run the wiring first or put in a few hatched cut outs for wire control.

I like one red wire and one black wire put into a vice and the other end 25 foot away spun up with a drill motor, making nice twisted, tangle free wire way. Your call.

skip.

[Craig]

I hear the haunting sound of Taps being played. I shudder to think of what is yet to be uncovered. Your friend could easily spend double what the boat will be worth post-restoration,not to mention the investment of blood, sweat and tears. While it is a noble ambition to bring her back to life, be sure you are prepared for the task! Good luck!

[fenderstratman41]

Skip, thanks for all that. The light I was referring to was only to point out holes where that bulk head board had rotted and you could see through it. I think I'll just put a similar sized piece over top.

With the angles, how do you fit in a new compression post? Do you have to cut a slot to the hatch to fit it in?

[JTMeissner]

Check out some of the complete rebuilds of 16s here.  I'm sure there is enough info for most of the issues you face.

Steven (keyskid) has a link to his photos here: http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=5837.msg41172#msg41172

This discussion links to a photo album of a complete rebuild by Terence Drozd (many pictures): http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=3936.msg27435#msg27435

Based on what I see, recommend going their routes of separating the deck and hull, getting out all the bad wood, and work from there.  If it were just a few spots, fixing the rotted areas might be justifiable, but to be sure you have the right structure you'll need to get down to the bare glass.  You also get to configure options any way you want (both these rebuilds show tweaks of the original boat). 

-Justin

[fenderstratman41]

Thanks Justin!

[skip1930]

" Based on what I see, recommend going their routes of separating the deck and hull, getting out all the bad wood, and work from there. "

That was my first thought, take the deck off. But I didn't say that because ...

At the factory, all this wood goes in with the deck off. Forget it. Once this is done, may as well just scrap the entire boat. Cut the keel off, and use it for the wife's flower box in the front yard.

Way too much work for what you'll get. Hate to be unkind but if you need punishment, have at it.
Me?  I'd just patch her up with a new glued on, from the inside, chunk of wood behind the old rotted thwart and toss on some 1/2 inch plywood over the births.

Compression post? Yep like I said, dig out the old compression post and put the new one back in. What angles? It just butts up to the new glued on wood backing up the thwart. Your talking a 1/2 inch just cope that 1/2 inch out if the 'butt-up' surface of the post, and screw it in with two lag screws.

skip.

[philb Junkie19]

Or you could look at your boat as a blank canvas with little to lose by making it into a picnic launch, trawler, lobster style boat, motor sailor, cat boat or traditional standing lug, sprit or other free standing rig.  It's scary to take a sawzall or jigsaw to a good boat for a major change but there is little invested at this point and opening the cramped cabin would give great access for interior work.  The 16 has a hull that could make a great platform for a number of designs. The Sailboat Company, http://www.ipass.net/sailboat/ has some good examples and features from some home build designs could provide additional ideas. 

[fenderstratman41]

Skip. The post slides through a round hole above the bulkhead. I can't angle a new one in because it hits the roof.

[skip1930]

Ahhh Zzzz problem. Thank you. You have explained to me why there is a small 4 x 4 inch hatch BEHIND and toward the bow on my boat.

Is the compression post is too long?
Measure what you need.
Inside of cabin under the tabernacle to four inches above the inside of the hull.
That 4 x 4 inch hatch comes out allowing the bottom of the post to be shoved into the space under the vee birth. That's the angle your talking about. Now that's it's in there, pull it back up and out, pulling the post flush to the thwart. Jam it up against the cabin top. Figure out a way to hold it or C-clamp it to the thwart until lag bolted in. If it's still too long, cut some more off till it's fitted and put the 4 x 4 hatch back in place.

Ezzz a problem no longer.
skip.