Com Pac 19 Purchase

[Gel937]

I am interested in purchasing a 1982 Com Pac 19.  The problems after inspection are a stanchion that has completely collapsed through the deck.  There are a few areas on the deck where the gel coat has cracked in parallel lines by the toerail. The lifeline would need to be replaced.  The sails are in good shape as well as the trailer.  The cushions would need to be replaced as well.  The asking price for the boat and trailer are $2600.  According to NADA value this is about right for the value.  I am seeking advice as to what the repair costs may run and overall cost to bring the boat into sailing shape.

I don't want to end up spending more money to fix it up that would put the total cost of the purchase and the repair costs over the value.

Thank you for your help

[Mattlikesbikes]

I am not sure about what the fiberglass work would cost but my 19 has a lot stress cracks and chips near and under the rub rail. I plan on tackling the work myself this summer.  If you are handy it would only be the cost of some west systems epoxy.  Cushions on the other hand are unbelievably expensive  From the factory a cushion set is $1950.00 according to the latest price list ( mine need to be replaced also). If you get them made somewhere you are still probably looking at somewhere in the $500-$1000 range.

I would also be very concerned about the hole in deck where the stanchion went through. How long was it there? Was it covered?  How much water did it let enter the cabin. If the boat has been sitting years uncovered with a hole exposing it to the elements. there could be significant damage to the inside like rot and mold.  Did you notice any water damage in the cabin. Did you look in the bilge. I would also recommend checking the compression post. There is a inspection plate in front of it in the v-berth secured by 4 screws. take a look in there for any water damage.  

My friend is also looking for a Com-Pac and we found a 19 locally the only problem was the plastic screw port on the forward hatch was missing while the boat was sitting on the hard for 10 years.  Lets just say you cold not even go in the cabin without gagging. A piece of duct tape covering that port would have saved that boat.  All the wood inside was rotted. Needless to say he passed on that one

[BruceW]

I think you need to know that NADA is a wholesale pricing scheme. I had NADA of 2700 for my Slipper 17 and sold it for 3500. It's good to use NADA for buying, but not for selling.

Regardless, you are right to not want to overdo it with repairs. I think the trailer being good, the sails being good, and I assume the hull also, and you can fix the other stuff.

Good luck!

Bruce

[Tim Gardner]

Post some pics of the damage  - MacGuyver here will probably provide volumes if info.

TG

[Gel937]

Thank you for you help.

[Gel937]

Here are photos of damage[img][/img]

Thanks

[Gel937]

Here is the last photo.

[img][/img]

[MacGyver]

Gel937,

Looks like the stancions wouldnt be a hard fix, but that punch will be some work. Looks like someone tried to cover it up with some caulk...... LOL

My write up will be lengthy, and the work in that area should be somewhat simple, just a definite process.......
I have been really busy as of late, and cannot write currently, but I will see if I can make time tomorrow perhaps.

I will read over the information you have here again to be sure I have a solid understanding of it all.

Is the Rubrail with the boat? Also have you priced new parts yet?

Mac

[Gel937]

I spoke to a fiberglass repairman and received a quote of $250 to repair the stanchion area that collapsed.  I am still concerned that I don't  know if the interior deck and/or hull has water damage.  Does anyone know if I should pay a surveyor to look at the boat or would the cost outweigh the benefit of the report?

Any help is appreciated.

[Gel937]

Thank you for responding. Yes, there is a new rub rail that will go with the boat.  I have included a new response that provides a rough estimate of the stanchion repair.

Looking forward to seeing your further response.

Thank you

[MacGyver]

That is interesting that they will repair for 250..... That area is pretty thick. I have to wonder what material they are going to use to repair it with. And what the end result would look like.

I have mixed results on surveyors due to the fact you are paying for ones opinion, and although it should be a educated opinion, I have witnessed over the years far too many times surveyors saying things that simply weren't true. I am not saying I am the very best in the field, but I know that when I know something, I have the knowledge to back it up 99 percent of the time.

Also surveyors run the gambit of a simple 250 bucks, to I have heard 2000. On a small boat, it is sometimes not feasible, as the damage could be repaired for the cost of the opinion.

All of the above is MY opinion, as you well know, based on my experience alone.

I would be concerned with a few things from that damage and knowing how compacs are built. The area that is the hole on the boat, is that above wood inside? and how is that wood?

What is the mold content in the boat? and how is the interior trim wood?

For me sadly, not seeing every square inch of the boat it is hard for me to say if I would suggest further purchase or repair. The other thing is really the only way to save is to do it yourself. Buying a boat is kind of a big deal because you could get into a clunker if you dont look for the right things. But you could get a gem that with some polishing, you could later turn a profit on.

I will type that response for tomorrow as far as the repair goes. I hope this response makes sense (I am tired.... LOL) and hope I didnt complicate things for you.

Mac

[Gel937]

Dear Mac,

Thanks for the help.  The interior wood has not been affected by the opening.  Also, there was no evidence of mold.  The interior cushions were worn from use and not moldy.  It looks as though the interior has been protected from the elements.  Overall, it appears that the boat can be repaired with the correct parts and repair techniques. 

I greatly appreciate your help with your detailed input.

Thank you,

Gel937

[MacGyver]

Okay,

For starters you will need to remove the hardware, and then remove all caulk from the surface. After you have that done, on that stanchion pole you can bevel you edges all the way around the hole. The longer the bevel the better the glass will tie into it.
The rounded corner is a little hard to bevel, sometimes I do that by hand just because it is easier.
After you have beveled the edges, and then re cleaned the area with solvent of choice (acetone, laquer thinner, you pick) and that thinner has been allowed to dry off completely, you will start with cutting the glass to fit the large sized holes. You will have a run of fabric that will be on the deck, then a run on the side coming up into the deck. You will need to allow these 2 patches to overlap allowing a structural tie in to occur.

After you have all of your glass parts cut, you should use a strong masking tape to tape the back of the repair area. It sometimes helps to clean that area the best you can, as you need this to stick really well, as it will keep the repair from falling through, give it a structured frame and keep the interior from getting epoxy on it.
I would also hang a heavy plastic from the wall, and onto the floor, so if it does leak through, it wont get on anything but the plastic.
When all this has been satisfied for you, you can start the repair. Mix West System or preferred Epoxy brand accordingly and apply to largest glass repair parts as you interlace the glass into the vertical and horizontal spots. Clean up any excess with Acetone. Once this has cured, you will sand to a profile, and fill as necessary to achieve a near level spot/surface.

After this comes the final sand, and coatings to cover for UV protection and a close match to original. I prefer Gelcoat, as it builds high and is very strong for the most part.
When you final sand a slight bevel to the surrounding gelcoat, using 80 grit, will allow a nice transition when completed with the gelcoat step.

I prefer SEA HAWK Gelcoats, and they are made in the USA as well. You can though use whatever Gel you want. You wont need much and will need a Preval spray gun (11 bucks) and that will get you through.
Acetone is a good thinner for the Gelcoat.

As I type this I realize that overall, you will be over the 250 mark in materials if not close. then you add your time, etc.

Something to think about....... maybe ask to see other repair work they have done.
I am not sure how well I explained the repair...... On this specific repair I dont have pictures to help illustrate the points either...... Let me know if you need more elaboration on points, and I will do my best.

Mac

[Gel937]

Dear Mac

Thank you so much for the detailed repair description.  I will keep you updated on the progress.

Gel937