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rivets used to attach deck to hull----- aluminum or stainless or ?

Started by mikkel, January 12, 2014, 05:32:24 PM

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mikkel

what material is used in rivets  ...attaching deck to hull  thanks

skip1930

Big MOTHER aluminum ones.
Would not be able to drill them out if they were stainless with out going through a pile of drill bits.

Oh, forgot the washer. It's all about spreading the load out. Squirt some 3-M 5200 slow set adhesive sealant in the joint. Slow set give you about 45 minutes of drip.

skip.


Jason

Good evening

The hull to deck joint on a CP16 is a very quality and robust design. That said, after a few decades the joint may need to be resealed. I did mine, 30 years after it was built.  From research on this site and elsewhere, what I did was:

-unbolt the stainless steel rub rail corner brackets (I reused the rubrail, brackets and hardware)
-remove the rubber rub rail. Note, the rub rail protects the joint and offers impact protection to the boat but does not seal the joint
-clean the joint, remove all dirt, scrape loose material out of gaps in the joint, lightly sand the face of the joint, blast out the joint with compressed air
-clean the vertical faces of the hull and deck joint with acetone, careful it's harsh don't drip it on other parts of the boat.
- apply 3M 5200 neatly into the joint from the outside AND spread it neatly so that it covers the vertical faces of the joint on the deck edge over the gap and on the hull edge.  Should wind up looking like a nice white stripe of 3M 5200 around the boat. Cover the vertical faces but do not get 5200 on the horizontal tops or bottom of the hull/deck joint
-let it dry, takes a while
-reinstall rub rail. Bolt in the port and starboard rubber strips into the bow stainless steel bracket. The rubrail will have likely contracted in length and when you go yo reinstall it, it will seem to short....but it isn't. It must be stretched hard and pounded over the joint with a mallet.  I have heard recommendations of heating the rub rail in hot water or of doing it on a hot day. Point is, if the rub rail is a little warm it will stretch easier and be easier to install.  My brother and I just man handled the sucker and stretched it on there. Bolt them in place with the original stainless brackets.

I did not touch the aluminum rivets that hold the hull and deck together.  I would not recommend that unless you're ready for a much bigger project.

Hope this helps.

Jason
1981 Compac 16 "Lillyanna"
Currently building SCAMP #349 "Argo"
Build log at www.argobuilder.com