News:

Howdy, Com-Pac'ers!
Hope you'll find the Forum to be both a good resource and
a place to make sailing friends.
Jump on in and have fun, folks! :)
- CaptK, Crewdog Barque, and your friendly CPYOA Moderators

Main Menu

Ida Rudder comparison to stock rudder

Started by jb, October 03, 2013, 05:59:14 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Salty19

Quote from: atrometer on December 19, 2013, 07:54:43 PMI had asked Compac and they said use the bolt w/lever (handle) to tighten the rudder in place. "Never had a failure". I ordered it, installed it, tightened it, and saw if I kept cranking it down I would probably be their first failure.  Now I'll do it the common sense way.  So much for Compac expertise.

Hmmm...something is amiss here.   That piece should be plenty strong? You're not using a breaker bar tube, right?

"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

atrometer

No, I tightened it down almost as much as I could by hand and the rudder was still flopping around inside,  I knew it would take a LOT more cranking to get it snug enough to hold it against the water flow, so I stopped.  I'm sure it would take a wrench to get it tight enough - so I quit.

skip1930

#17
To me the two rudders are identical where they slip into the casting and pivot on a captured bolt. Use Permatex Neverseaze for these threads.

To limit the flopping around of the rudder's plate, try slipping a fender washer or sheet metal spacer between the plate and the casting.

Yep. Castings that pinch don't bend. Stop when you notice the two surfaces squeezing together.

Having said that, I flattened out a tube to slip over the handle for leverage. I squeeze the water out of the casting and have yet to break the casting. Just lucky.

To keep everything in place [the blade], I drilled a hole and put a bolt in.

"This ain't rocket science."

skip.

carry-on

Skip's suggestion of using a fender washer worked on my RudderCraft blade. Sometimes when underway, would check the blade and find it a little aft...maybe a quarter inch. The ComPac manual says the blade should be forward in the rudder housing or performance is reduced. Don't know if a small movement impacts the foil.
Anyway, I used a little super glue to hold a thin SS washer in place on the blade. Once secured was able to work the blade into the housing and fit the bolt. Also put a lock washer on the bolt between the housing and handle.
Now the blade seems more secure and I don't feel like I am stressing the aluminum casting.   
$UM FUN TOO

CP-16 Hull# 2886

atrometer

#19
TYVM!  (Thank You Very Much)tg

nies

I used a thin circle of plastic sheet with hole in center to fill void, held in place with a little grease until I could get bolt through to eliminate the slop, like the thin s.s. washer idea, do not over stress the  housing or you will crack the aluminum casting.......expensive to repair or replace...........nies

BILL CHEYENNE WY

I had the same problem on my 19.  I took one of my wife's flexible cutting boards 7.5''x11"x about 1/16".  I cut it in  half.  These where large enough for me to hold in place while I inserted the bolt.  Worked like a charm.  When tight, the extra thickness allows a larger surface of the frame to grip the rudder.  This was a cheap and easy fix.  Good Luck.  Bill