Checklist of for Fall/Winter Storage

[brackish]

You do cross country ski, don't you?

Bob, get your physics book out go to the section that talks about gravity and potential energy.  They make chairs you can get up the hill with then let gravity take you back down.  I've found that works well for me.

[Bob23]

Wow! Iv'e read about the research into these gravity defying chairlifts and heard rumors of working prototypes in Europe but had no idea they were actual production machines here in the US. Ahh...wise guy!
   There are no hills here in the South of NJ and I love the excercise of cross country. I do a small bit of snowboarding, although it's easy for me to get out of control. My daughter and I, (before she became a Floridian) enjoyed cross country and snow bladding together. A real treat around here is when we get a coastal snow storm and can cross country ski on the beach with the mighty North Atlantic just a few feet away!
    In other news, looks like a good chance that Sandy may be dropping in for a visit Sunday or Monday...I'm hauling Koinoina out on Saturday...always a sad day for me. But, up here this could be a combo hurricane/nor'easter and when combined with Mondays full moon, some high storm surge. I feel better with my boat in my driveway.
   Bob23

[Saluki86]

The PO of my C16 said the mud daubers did a number on the interior before I bought it.  I had read someplace on this forum to put a couple bars of Irish Spring Handsoap in dishes to keep them out.  Not sure if it works but that is on my list to give it a try.

[Saluki86]

What do I need to do for Fall/Winter storage of my 3hp 2 stroke outboard?  Same as mentioned above?  I emptied the carb and fuel line last time I was out.  Do I fill the tank with gas and add stabilizer from AutoZone or empty the tank completely?  Remove spark plug and spray in some starter fluid then reinsert?

The motor is stored in my insulated garage year round and I mount it when it is time to sail. 

I didn't do anything last year (since it was in my garage) and it cost my $75 to get it running again.  I would like to avoid that this year. 

[Bob23]

Saluk:
   Each fall I run fogging spray through my motor while running in a barrel of fresh water. I spray some in the carb on and off for a few minutes...makes a lot of smoke.  I then disconnect the fuel line and run the motor until it's out of gas. After that, I pull the plugs, spray some more fogging stuff into the cyclinders and turn the motor over a few times by hand before inserting the plugs, handtight. Then I lube any moving part that is under the cover.
   After the motor is pulled out of the barrel, the lower unit gear oil gets changed. Finally, the motor is stored in the shed out of the winter and tucked in for a long winters nap.
   Each spring Miss Nissan size 8 gets a new set of plugs and fresh premium gas treated with Stabil Marine fuel stabilizer. She must like what I do because even after a long winters hibernation, she starts first time!
    I empty my gas tank and fuel line and store 'em both away out of the weather. My tank is a plastic 3 gallon tank so rust is not an issue.
   I don't know if you really mean starting fluid...I would not recommend that at all. Starting fluid is not a lubricant...use fogging oil instead. Or you coud just pump a few squirts from the oil can into the cylinders instead. 
  Miss Nissan is an 8 hp 2 stroke. Super reliable and plenty of power for my 23.
Bob23

[Salty19]

Saluki, I follow much of what Bob does

-Run engine in bucket of water to help remove deposits from cooling system. A quart of vinegar in 2-3 gals of water should help clean the passages
-Clean assembly with dawn soap.
-Lube the zero fittings.
-Drain gas tank by pouring into the car, purge fuel line from tank to motor. I have 100:1 fuel/oil mix and tend to put a little in each car and the lawn tractor to dilute the mix.
-Drain gas in the carburetor.  Often a small drain screw/bolt exists for this purpose.
-Spray about 3 ounces of "Deep Creek" (essentially the spray version of SeaFoam) into the fuel line going into the carb. Do this with the above drain screw closed, let it sit for a day, then drain. This loosens and removes small deposits--ones that will get larger and cause problems.
-Fogging oil in the cylinders. I remove the spark plugs and spray directly into the cylinder, then pull the starting handle a few times to distribute (remove the engine tether so the ignition is turned OFF before pulling, otherwise the coil may get strained and fail)
-Use 120 grit sandpaper on the spark plug electrodes. Brush off carbon with a stuff brass brush.  Re-gap the electrodes, blow compressed air to remove grit and reinstall plugs
-Drain gearbox oil.  I do this only to look for a milky-white haze to the oil, which indicates water intrusion and a needed repair.
-Inspect anodes, replace as needed
-Inspect starter rope
-Inspect fuel filter. Yellowing is OK, look for gunk buildup (if you can't see inside the filter because it's not clear, replace every 5 years or so.
-Inspect pee hole and water stream.
-Lube the throttle arm and tilt mechanism if needed
-If 4 stroke, pull starter handle SLOWLY until the compression stroke (felt by the most pressure while pulling). This removes tension from the valve springs, and might make them last longer, and it also removes air in the cylinder which feeds rust (hopefully the engine fogging oil will prevent that too).

The most important thing on this list is draining the gas out of the carb, lines and tank-if you do nothing else, do these.

Also these small outboards are a piece of cake to work on (usually). If the carb looks fairly easy to remove (usually two nuts, throttle and choke cables, a few rubber hoses and maybe a timing lever)..do it..remove the bottom "bowl" and spray the entire thing mercilessly with carb cleaner and compressed air, especially through ports/holes.  Wear those goggles and do it well away from anything you care about, the spray WILL squirt all over the place

Good luck!