Stuff I've done with your help.

[marc]

I've asked a lot of questions over the past few months and thought I'd show you how I used your information.

I first asked how you all raised your mast. With your help here was my solution. I set up a gin pole connected directly to the mast tabernacle.

Once the mast is up I remove the bolt through the tabernacle, remove the gin pole, then reinsert a bolt.



Line going aft is the mast halyard. Red line going forward is my lifting line - it goes through blocks, then on to a cockpit cleat. I've been able to raise the mast alone after launch.



Here is a picture of how the lifting line is routed. The double block is tied off to the sampson post (Another project I discussed here). You can also see the chocks I installed. I went with the larger size to accommodate 1" line. 



The larger chocks let me easily tie off to the mooring line. On the left side of the following photo you can see the Spinlock furling lead. I was concerned that the lead is designed for 1" tubes and my bow pulpit is 7/8" inch diameter. Realized a great solution to that problem when I was giving blood. The disposable tourniquet was an elastic rubber band 1" wide. A piece of that band now lives here.



Used Spinlock bullseye to lead furling line back to cockpit.



Then I used a Sea dog rail-mount loop cleat fender holder to tie off my furling line. This cleat is basically a clam cleat that mounts to a rail. This allows me to reef the jib quickly without messing around with a horn cleat. Wasn't sure this was going to work, but so far so good. I've been  reefed in 20 knot winds and it has held just fine. When I'm away from the boat the line coming out of the fender holder gets tied off to the horn cleat just showing on the lower left - just to be safe.



Put on the ladder. It is lower on the transom than I have seen in other photos on-line, but in the past we've used a with a ladder where the 1st step was not convenient for some of the passengers on my boat. Therefore, I installed it as low as I dared.



Put shims between my outboard motor bracket and transom so that I could lift the motor into the highest position without the bracket handle hitting the rub rail. The shims are cutting board material from the cuttingboardcompany.com. Doubt the material is UV stable but if they deteriorate in a few years, I'll just replace them.
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Finally, here's a photo of the 12 volt accessory plug I added in the cabin.


I'm still working on other projects but just wanted to thank you again. None of this would have been as easy as it was without your help.
Marc

[MacGyver]

Thank you Marc, posting that picture of your motor mount just saved me thinking time of what I was going to do and if it was a good idea to build a plastic spacer to extend the mount to keep it from damaging the rubrail and pinching my fingers during the 2013 sailing season.

My wife thanks you also, as My constant thinking out loud was driving her nuts, and also, that when I pinched my fingers time and time again, she would have to listen to me cuss out the motor mount. LOL

I am thinking about adding in a aluminum plate to the backside to help stiffen the transom, did you do that as well? I see you used 8 bolts.

Great work on the other projects!

Mac

[marc]

[size=10pt]The backing plate for the outboard mount is 5/8" HDPE (cutting board).[/size]

[Tim Gardner]

I'm jealous of Blue Boat's blue hull.  Beautiful!  I'll bet she beats beyond belief between the Briney blue wind blown waves between beating tacks.

alliteration-ally yours, TG