Picked up a CP19 with serious issues

[lochinvar]

I have picked up a CP19 here in the Pacific NW. Actually, I have had it about 6mos, but my work (I am a field engineer for Raytheon) requires that I travel. So here is the "before" pics of the issues.

The PO decided that he wanted to "fix" the site of a dock impact. I am sure that it put spider stress-cracks in the deck top, but I'll never know; he cut out a 38in section of the deck with an angle grinder:



The insides were left as he had finished with them:

[MacGyver]

OUCH
luckily that wont be a hard fix. He did cut that line decent enough.

I would start by removing that Genoa Track, get it out of the way.....
Bevel your edge back on the top for glass tie in.
Then get some good tape, masking tape, and tape your profile from the inside
As another option, you could get heavy Mil plastic and make the form as best you can from the inside and duct tape the edges so you can start.

Fill in as you can, glassing it all over till you have remade the corner, then sand to a profile and use a Plastream batten to get the curvature back as it can act like a bendable straight edge.

The plastic underneath can be pulled away from the set glass construction with ease, leaving a nice smooth surface inside.

The top will have to be worked with a bit, but it will come together.

Too bad you dont have the old piece...... some people think you have to hack it all out....... by the looks of the lip and all that, he went way overboard.......

ALSO, back by the genoa track, you would be better off squaring up that corner and coming up that lip edge.....
If you have a top down pic showing it I will gladly trace out where I would cut to make the repairs easier......

Mac


Oh, did you get all the wood with it to that he took out?

[lochinvar]

Thanks Mac,
I already got the fix done. I formed a piece of lumber and inserted in there, encapsulated it with glass mat, then resin, then filled it in. Went underneath and put 3 layers of glass then resin to completely encapsulate it. It was a beeatch but *done*. I amd trying to return some of the fine how-to's that I have seen here by starting to post some pics.

I have this CP19 plus am buying the CP23 that is in Oklahoma. Going to get it soon.

Trying to find the pics of the fix on this CP19 now. Dang. Ok, here is the fix:



And NO, I only have some of the wood. No step. I have one nasty cushion, but it was not for this boat. That is why I have posted "WTB Cabin Cushions". I JUST missed some for sale by Lafayette. No sails. One of the shrouds needs replacement. Rudder completely frozen. Pinions(? - rudder pivot pins) had to be cut and drilled out. Motor mount frozen. Boarding ladder astern was completely wasted.

Pulling the stuff off to repair/replace was the *Real* problem. NOT for the meek.

But what does one expect for $600 for the boat and trailer, eh? Boat is completely stripped now, in my shop, and I am working from the insides out.

[NateD]

Sometimes cheap boats turn out to be not so cheap by the time your done. But if you like workin' on them, then more power to ya. I certain admire the effort, it's more than I would want to tackle.

[lochinvar]

Thanks Nate. It's my "therapy". Gotta be busy with *something* or I start doin' silly things like buying another boat. <grin>

[lochinvar]

Updates to the CP19 Saga.

Working dilligently on this girl. I have pulled off everything. Stanchions, ladder (half was gone) rudder mount, blocks, eyebrows, hatch. Everything. every external fitting.

The inside was easy: nothing was there but old wiring. Couldn't figure out what the PO was doing. There were lots of wire-nuts. Ever seen that kind of engineering? Hey, I am a former Okie, but this was, well, maybe from Arkansas. <grin>

[background: for you that don't know: Okies make fun of Texans and Arkies, they make fun of us. It can get out of hand, but hey, people get out of hand if you say "hello there buddy" sometimes. So -all in fun I say.
I have to tell you a story about Okies and Arkies: I have deployed to a war zone 7 times in the last 6 years. Yeah. I am a masochist, but I have repaid my Karma obligations, and besides, I train and get to be around our military guys (and gals) in the warzones. My highest honor.
Anyways: I land in Balad, Iraq in 2010. I go to see the Unit Commander so I can brief him on my activities. He is a young, "high-and-tight" Army Captain with a great smile and greets me with a good firm handshake. We talk: Me: "Captain, I am here as a military advisor to help train some of your techs. I am at your service. Hey, by the way, I hear you are from Arkansas, I am from Oklahoma..." He grinned. "Yep, I am from Ft. Smith AR." he said. "Ok" I replied..."I'll make sure I talk slow..." Holy smokes. You would think I hit the guy. He just completely changed. He shut down any further conversation and dismissed me. I told him I was only joking but that didn't matter to him. When we got outside, my buddy, another operative from Alabama said, "Godd@m Shawn, you sure know how to make friends!!" I told him that it was probably good that I didn't get to tell him my patent Arkie Joke: "You know how you can tell the *toothbrush* was invented in Arkansas?  If it was invented anywhere else it would be called a *teethbrush*!" Harrrrr.]

But I digress.

[lochinvar]

Anyways,
I wanted to post a couple of hints on fiberglass stuff. I am not the authority when it comes to fiberglass working but here is a recent observation: I pulled off all my stuff as I said in the above post before I funnied mesef.

Most of the fittings, stanchions, stern boarding ladder, mainsheet blocks, rear and bow stanchions, motor mount, winches, are all bedded in 5200. That is all well and good until you have to pull them off as in my case. I would almost rather "suck raw eggs for a living" as my Dad would say.

I am going to paint everything. Deck, hull, bottom. (and insides too) So everything comes off.

The cabin roof was spongy. That is because the roof became unbonded from the cabin ceiling. What to do? Well, on this site, there is someone who clued me in on that. You drill holes, but not thru the ceiling. You inject epoxy into the holes and *viola* it fixes it.

Let's say you want to fix the leaking stanchion bases or maybe you just want to pull them and reinforce them. Maybe drill them oversized first then epoxy them. It is ALL fine in theory but how in the H@ll do you get the epoxy to flow into the holes and how do you prevent the remaining epoxy that is NOT in the hole from creating an epoxy sanding problem?

Well first, there is a creation from West Systems that is pictured below. It is not cheap, but very very good for this type of project.

[lochinvar]

Continued: Here is the product:



This product mixes the two part epoxy in the nozzle, that blue nozzle. Lets say you only use half the epoxy in the tube. (by the way, the epoxy in the tube is not the whole body of the tube but about half)

You simply pull off the nozzle and throw it away, put the plug back on the tube. I have used many epoxies, Max Bond from Ebay sales, Mas, System Three and West systems. This epoxy tube - for this purpose - steals the show.

Example: using cup-mixed Mas epoxy without tape on holes:



Notice the sanding I have to do from the flow out of the holes. The tube from West Systems has a thickening agent in it.

The next thing you need to do is use tape over the epoxy until it cures. Especially on vertical surfaces Here are some examples:

Mast base: notice that I didn't use it at first. That is why the flow toward the lower right: Also notice the cracked gelcoat from the 5200 under the resin.

[lochinvar]

Continue this:

Here is where I remembered to use tape over the curing epoxy:

Winch base holes -



See? See how smooth the holes are and there will be a minimum of sanding to do. In the next pic I will pull the tape off the top holes:



Here are some vertical examples. Don't mind the brown looking stuff, that is where I used thickened Mas epoxy and had to sand it down from the flow out of the holes. Mind you, I have tape on the inside of the hole, the other side as it were. Just note the holes themselves with the West systems epoxy and the tape:
Motor mount holes-


Ladder holes -



Anyways, I hope it never gets to this point with all of your boats. But if it does, OR if you just want to pull off and replace a motor mount, let's say. You can use this hint to keep the epoxy runoff to a minimum, then after you redrill, you can cover the hole and the epoxy with the mount.

Cheers to all,
-Shawn F.

[Tim Gardner]

Shawn, Interesting set of Pics.  Know how many Okies it takes to eat an armadillo? Two - one to eat & one to watch for traffic.  Har!   Feeling at home now?

TG

[Billy]

Hey Shaun,
What does a divorce and a tornado in Oklahoma have in common???

Someone is losing a trailer!

They don't call it "Moblehoma" for nothing!

GO HOGS!!! 

[lochinvar]

Hot Dang! I almost feel like I am back home drinkin Koors takin a leak off the front porch...

You guys is great!

I will have you know out of respect for my former neighbors: I have been to Toad Suck in a sailboat and have the sweatshirt to prove it!

[MacGyver]

lochinvar,
The key to doing those holes is to use cheap masking tape centered over the holes then use a razor blade to cut the hole out  then use your filler in allowing it to flow over very little onto the tape.
When the epoxy gels, that is the time to pull your tape which leaves just that little hole for you to sand smooth or predrill a centering hole then follow up with larger bits till final size.
Also taping the other side will keep the epoxy where you need it.

I hope to have a video showcasing this method soon.......I am so stacked with projects that I am doing on mine I havent had time to make the actual videos.......
Also this foil rudder job took a turn that I just corrected so that kinda jarred me off course.

Anyway, my wife is from Okie, I actually like the place but I live in Illinois which seems to be the turd hole of America
I love the jokes, life can be fun with jest like that and I feel everyone should have a sense of humor, besides, none of us get out of here alive. LOL

Keep up the good work,
Mac

[lochinvar]

Yep, I have heard of doing it that way. However consider how easy it is to do it the way I described: Put tape on the "other side". Affix nozzle on product. Squirt epoxy into hole. Cover with masking tape. When dry, the tape will still peel off leaving the epoxy smooth. Smoooth as a baby's behind. By far the easiest way I have found.

I didn't say I was the "Master of Fiberglassin" (even though my girlfriend calls me "Master" for some reason ------ Harrrrrrr. Just jokin')

Yep. I agree with you. There is certainly enough serious stuff in life. I think it is the spice of life to joke around with good folks.

I must admit, living in WA has to be the best place I have ever lived. It has stunning sights on the water and in the woods. It is just beautiful. So, saying I'm an Okie is being nostalgic, I really am a Washatonian now. But those folks down there are great people as a whole. And it is the mark of good-natured people who can laugh at themselves a bit anyway.

I digress again.

[crazycarl]

now, i'm no boat expert, but i built and repaired fiberglass molds for 20 years.

the surface coat of these molds HAD to be free of all holes and defects to produce a shiney product.

here is my method.

wax the entire area with a good paste wax. (i like minwax)

drill out the holes and using a dremel or like tool, grind an undercut in the hole.

also, grind or use a countersink bit to work a bevel on the outer edge of the hole.

place the tape on the underside of the hole, and inject/pour the epoxy into the hole, leaving it just above the surface.
(epoxy works buy thermo set, so it will shrink while curing)

by not covering the "good" surface, it allows any air in the hole to escape.

before the epoxy reaches it's full cure, a sharp chisel is used to pare it down close the surface, leaving a minimum to sand and blend in.

the beveled edge will make it easier to feather the patch in.

everyone has their own technique, and your's works just fine.   


carl