Teak Oil Project

[Short Sale]

I believe that I want to use teak oil to restore the exterior wood on this 87 Com Pac 16/II.  I took some photos of it hoping you guys can confirm that this in fact teak.  I have the confidence to attempt this project in a month or so after reading Skip1930's post of 6/16/12 titled Refinish Wood,  ( http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=5328.0 ) I believe I can remove the pieces along the companion way and along the hatch, apply a series of coats of oil, and replace them.  I will do the companion way door was well.

Is this teak?  Does anyone want to offer any tips?

Thank you,
George

Companion Way Trim

[skip1930]

The teak rails for the sliding hatch and hand rails are very easy to remove. It's screwed in from the bottom. The teak sides to retain the drop boards are a different story as the plugs covering the screw heads are a bear to get out. Same with the teak eye brows over the ports.  Two teak pieces around the gas tank hatch, One teak piece under the drop boards, and a bow sprit if so equipped. The tiller is sanded down and gets 17 coats of spar varnish each winter with a little steel wool rubbing 'tween coats. The last three coats, no rubbing.

Anyway scratch up the wood with something abrasive, sand paper, 3-M pads, or...? Wash and brighten the wood with teak brightener, let dry, and oil it up. Layer after dried layer, till you have a finish you like. Re-oil ever four to six months.

Is it real teak$$$$ ? on the drop boards, Naaaaaaaaaa. It's a veneer over plywood of some sort and my factory originals split apart years ago, so I made a new ply wood drop board and cut it in half on a 45 deg. to shed the rain. Now this second set split off the veneer so I sanded that off and painted them with Restoleum oil base grey. Best paint ever, 'cept for an alkali oil base enamel.

I'm a Min-Wax guy myself. Still thinking about going back to the oil. Never Cetaol again. skip.

" BTW I have the same year and model as yours and, contrary to what Skip says, my hatch slides are attached the same way as the top pieces. No difference. " I think I said that Kevin. Maybe I was not clear.

[Salty19]

All the rails are teak, the board...who knows.

Skip is spot on.

scrub, use teak brightener, let dry, maybe do some minor sanding, clean again, let dry for a week then oil, oil, oil.

[chas5131]

Never brush teak.  Brushing will remove the soft pulp in the grain and leave ridges.
Use a bug sponge and detergent to clean it.  Then use a teak oil.

[JazzCat]

I have an 89 CP16. My Hatch Board is plywood. I used Captains UltraClear Marine Varnish on it this year and WOW! It should be hanging next to a Picasso. I did the teak sliders too. It all looks great and with the minimal ammount of wood on these boats, it really stands out. Shines like a new penny. I did the teak oil thing for a few years, I just like the deep glassy look that repeated coats of varnish gives.

[kearns]

My hatch is a thin veneer of mahogony laid over marine plywood. I chose to strip all of my wood last winter and then apply many coats of varnish instead of teak oil. It's a matter of preference, and arguably oil is easier to reapply and maintain so ... go for it. I personally like the gloss finish.

However, whatever you do, don't forget to squirt a little silicone or other flexible sealant into the bolt holes before you reattach everything. This will prevent leakage. Use sparingly and have a rag handy with a touch of thinner on it to wipe away the excess that gets pressed out when you tighted the screws.  Also, tighten firmly but gently. You don't want to accidently split the wood by over-tightening.  BTW I have the same year and model as yours and, contrary to what Skip says, my hatch slides are attached the same way as the top pieces. No difference.

Kevin

[brackish]

If were going to use oil, doubt I would go through the trouble to take it all off.  Oil doesn't last long, on my last boat about 3-4 months and then the teak is both greying and often full of dirt blown into the grain pores.  I like it and used to do mine about four times a year but on the boat, didn't bother to take off the permanently mounted pieces.  Used one of those kits that has cleaner (strong stuff) neutralizer (to neutralize the strong stuff), brightener and then as many coats of oil as you have the patience for.  None of those steps seemed to have a deleterious effect on the surrounding fiberglass although the oil would be slippery until it washed off.

[Short Sale]

You guys are awesome.  There is tremendous depth of information among the collection of posters on this site and there is willingness among all of you to share it.  Thank you.

Well. I guess the gauntlet has been thrown down on me and I MUST oil my teak soon.  Maybe I should not have been running my mouth!  Because the sailing season is long in sunny South Carolina, I may apply some oil for now and go for a varnish job after the winter solstice.

George

[Spartan]

I agree with Brackish, my teak oil job from spring is about done.  Went sailing last weekend, back to grey.  Next year will either have to apply during summer or go with coating.  Tiller is holding on well with spray eurathane.  My Two Cents.

Tom

[chas5131]

Try a strong solution of Tide and  water before spending your money on teak cleaner.   Add a bit of bleach if needed.

[Craig]

I use a product called Spray Nine to clean teak. Lifts the grime right off! Little scrubbing needed. Use light 3m pad on stubborn spots.