replacing water pump

[mrtoad]

the water pump - slide out sink - broken - needs to be replaced
pump is broken not the sink

please - do you have suggestions - brass would be so cool

thanks , mr toad


in addition - this forum is so helpful - thanks for the time you take to share information

[brackish]

Went through that.  The solution below cost not much more than replacing the original Fynspray manual and probably less than the bronze version.  Of course a little bit of my labor to plumb and wire it in.  But it is sooo nice to not have to pump and to have the deck washdown/shower.

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=3459.0

[Norm]

I had the same problem and after careful research, replaced the pump with a similar desigh from West Marine.  I had to make a shallow cutout for the pump in the wood panel above the sink in order for the sink to slide in and out.  Perhaps Hutchins could make a recomendation or provide a similar

[Cruzin]

Brackish,
Thanks for your pump information, looks like an improvement I need to make. A couple of questions for you are listed below:

Can you utilize a y-valve to select either water from your freshwater tanks or from the sea water inlet? If so can the pump handle the switching from one to another without losing the prime or anything? Do they need to be mounted so that gravity will feed from freshwater supply? How much fresh water do most carry? I have a Compac 23.

Thanks for all the great information from everyone!

Dale

[brackish]

Brackish,
Thanks for your pump information, looks like an improvement I need to make. A couple of questions for you are listed below:

Can you utilize a y-valve to select either water from your freshwater tanks or from the sea water inlet? If so can the pump handle the switching from one to another without losing the prime or anything? Do they need to be mounted so that gravity will feed from freshwater supply? How much fresh water do most carry? I have a Compac 23.

Thanks for all the great information from everyone!

Dale

That particular pump is self priming so it doesn't care about the source location.  For instance, in the winter I pump it dry, then put in a gallon of non toxic anti-freeze in the tank and pump it through the system.  The pump is mounted at a higher elevation than the water tank, no gravity needed.  Not sure, however that you can pump from a seawater input without a vent of some sort in the system.  Is your sea water salt?  Better check with the manufacturers specs, (Shurflo) this pump is a water system pump not a washdown pump.  Also not sure I would do that unless you proclaim your water system to never be for potable water.  Possibility of backflow and contamination would be high.

My water tank is 11 gallons and it is a hard tank.

[Shawn]

I followed Brackish's lead on the electric water pump and the tap in the seat locker and really enjoyed it last season. I leave a self coiling hose on the tap and a multi-function sprayer on it for cockpit showers or a fine mist for the really hot days. I am going to add an accumulator this year for less pump cycling when using the mister and more consistent flow from the sink.

I also replaced the water bladder and all hose as the old was really nasty. At the same time I converted the sink to a rectangular model which was deeper and put a single burner origo stove next to it to give me more storage room on the other side.

Shawn

[Shawn]

"and a multi-function sprayer on it for cockpit showers or a fine mist for the really hot days. I am going to add an accumulator this year for less pump cycling when using the mister and more consistent flow from the sink."

An update on this... I ended up putting the accumulator in. I used the included connector to mount it right after the pump. For using the mister it greatly reduces pump cycling and power consumption. Before the pump was basically always cycling on/off when misting, now it turns on for an instant then is off for about 6 seconds before cycling again. Should be a welcome addition on really hot days. At some point I'm going to put an inspection port near the seat locker so I can get at the hose without having to leave the lid cracked open.

When using the sink the pump still cycles about as before but the flow is more consistent without as much pulsing.

Edit: I dropped the pressure in the accumulator from about 28 PSI down to 18 PSI. Now the mister runs for 40 seconds before the pump cycles runs for about 2 seconds. Sink flow is almost as steady as a house flow now.

Shawn

[brackish]

"and a multi-function sprayer on it for cockpit showers or a fine mist for the really hot days. I am going to add an accumulator this year for less pump cycling when using the mister and more consistent flow from the sink."

An update on this... I ended up putting the accumulator in. I used the included connector to mount it right after the pump. For using the mister it greatly reduces pump cycling and power consumption. Before the pump was basically always cycling on/off when misting, now it turns on for an instant then is off for about 6 seconds before cycling again. Should be a welcome addition on really hot days. At some point I'm going to put an inspection port near the seat locker so I can get at the hose without having to leave the lid cracked open.

When using the sink the pump still cycles about as before but the flow is more consistent without as much pulsing.

Edit: I dropped the pressure in the accumulator from about 28 PSI down to 18 PSI. Now the mister runs for 40 seconds before the pump cycles runs for about 2 seconds. Sink flow is almost as steady as a house flow now.

Shawn

Sounds like a great improvement.  Which accumulator did you use?  I looked at a Shurflo but there was nothing in the literature about pressure adjustment. 

Do you still have the picture of your sink/stove combo slide out.  It is gone from the project thread.  Thinking about that.

[Shawn]

I used the small 24 ounce ShuFlo accumulator #182-200. It is about the same size as the pump and mounts easily right next to it as the inlet/outlet is at the same height and it comes with a QR connector to go between the two. The instruction manual briefly mentions adjusting the pressure but I missed it the first time I read through it.

"The accumulator contributes to longer pump life, less noise, less amperage draw, and reduced water pulsation. The most efficient use of the accumulator occurs with the pre-charge set at the SAME pressure as the pump's pressure switch "turn on" setting. Typically, a 45 psi [3 bar] pump will turn on around 30 psi [2.07 bar]. Therefore, the pre-charge should also be 30 psi [2.07 bar]. The pre-charge MUST be set in a "static" condition (pump off and at least one water fixture opened)."

On the 2GPM pump I'm using the pump turns off at 30psi and on at 15psi +/-5 psi.

The picture from last year of the sink/stove is:



Still loving that mod due to all the extra storage space I've gained on the other side. I keep extra sails and life jackets in that now empty area on port. The somewhat larger sink is handy too. I'll probably add a soap dispenser to the sink as well. Sink is 13"x15" and 5" deep. I got it on ebay for $35. I think this is the same sink:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Stainless-Steel-Bowl-Sink-RV-Travel-Trailer-/380368481790?_trksid=p4340.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D301271997676709567%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D4%26

It does not come with the 2" drain.

This year I finally have the GPS mounted above the sink along with the back side of the NASA Clipper Wind Meter.

Shawn

[brackish]

Thanks, I believe I have the same pump and nice to know that the connector is included and will mate up level with the pump, makes installation very easy.  Think I'm going to do it to cut the cycling down.  The misting idea is great, we've had a string of 100F + days with very low humidity, the mister would make using the boat bearable.  Are you using multiple misting nozzles under a bimini or just hanging one of those multi selector hose spray nozzles.

Just got the teak in to make the hinged fuel locker cover, thinking I may go thru the cockpit seat bulkhead back there and then snake the hose under the cover so the cockpit seat can close when it is in use.  Depends on whether there is room for the coiled hose back there, have to try that first, see it it might work, before i cut any holes in my bulkhead.  Going to leave the valve where it is, just stub out a connector for the hose.

About how much did you have to add to the overall length of your starboard sliding module to get both the sink and stove there?  with it pushed back, can you still get your feet under it to use the berth?  Like the larger rectangular sink, be nice to have a custom cutting board that covers it.  Also, that arrangement gets the stove away from the instruments, lets you mount some things on either bulkhead without worrying about cooking something you don't want to cook.

[Shawn]

"Are you using multiple misting nozzles under a bimini or just hanging one of those multi selector hose spray nozzles."

Right now just one of the multi-selector hose nozzles. I have a 10' string of nozzles that I could hang from the bikini but I haven't tried that yet.

"About how much did you have to add to the overall length of your starboard sliding module to get both the sink and stove there? "

It is longer as the stove interferes with opening the rear cabinet. I reused the mounting hardware from the original sink and I think the back slide was full length. So looking at the picture you can see about how much longer it is... about 3 or 4 inches I think but I can remeasure that. It does still slide completely under.

I should have pushed the sink back a little further and had the stove right up against it, if I had done that I think the cabinet would clear. The berth on that side is more cramped due to the wood stove too. If you put the faucet in the cabinet itself you could probably keep the combo just about the original length. I had considered it but I'm sure one of my kids would turn on the faucet while the sink was still stowed away.

"be nice to have a custom cutting board that covers it."

That would be nice. Should be easy enough to find something that could work. The cutting board for the original 2 burner stove might be fairly close, I'll dig that out of the attic and try it.

Shawn