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bottom around saft on 23D ??

Started by cloud, April 01, 2011, 10:12:19 PM

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cloud

I am looking at a 1996 CP 23D... Seems nice, but needs lots of cleaning and care to bring her back (been sitting on a trailer for several years. Two major problems:
A. The diesel runs great. When it is put in gear it will run ok for a short while then it begins whine very loud from the transmission area under the cockpit, then it will cut off the diesel.  Like it is restricted .  The prop will spin in neutral. Not sure what the problem might be...
B. The area around the shaft tube has been built up (assume to feather in the log for the pro shaft by Com Pac) and it is blistering and cracked. The rest of the bottom has not had a blister problem.
Ideas about A and B would be helpful.
Thanks,
Cloud

PS I have pictures, but I don"t know how to post them...


Tim Gardner

Cloud,

Are you running this diesel on the hard?  There is a shaft bearing made of rubber that MUST be lubricated by water, or it will squeal as it heats up, expands and begins cutting your shaft in two, acts like a brake and shuts down your engine. 

Blistered and cracked?  Sounds like overheating damage has been done already. I hope not too much damage.

TG
Never Be Afraid to Try Something New, Remember Amateurs Built the Ark.  Professionals Built the Titanic (update) and the Titan Submersible.

skip1930

#2


Maybe the Motor Mounts are shot or anchored in rotted resign impregnated wood.

Running on the hard??? !!! No cooling.
That right there will trigger the diesel to shut it's self off.
That's got nothing to do with the transmission. Is it lubed up?
And as stated, it damages the cutler bearing and any possible seals.
You may have a rubber impeller on the diesel water pump which, without water is 'junque' now.
See if you can find a metal impeller.
The gear case may be made with straight cut gears which will whine by design.
A lot of hot rodder's running Flathead V-8 Fords like to replace the spiral cut cam gears with straight
cam gears just to listen to the whine...cool Daddy-O.

Picture posting. Scan, save in Photobucket, above every post is that lower line of icons, the second one in that looks like a yellow beach with a hill and black tree line. Click on that and it will show up where you last saw your blinking cursor in the message box. It will show [ img ] a space, and another [ img ] and now go to Photobucket and copy the second code down which will be called the 'Direct code'. A relatively short code. Paste that between the two IMG boxes, and push save. It only took me a year to figure that out. Here is an example. I centered the image on the page from the center icon on the top line of icons. If it's not right, click on the Modify Message and make any changes until you figure it out.





skip

brackish

What Tim said.  You have a cutlass bearing that allows for the intrusion of water to provide lubrication and cooling.  You should also have a packing gland or shaft seal bearing that has a flexible packing material, usually teflon based these days, that requires adjustment.  Improper adjustment or cooling of these components can allow heat to build up causing thermal expansion.

cloud

#4
The boat is in the water and moving when it starts to make the noise and then lock down the motor. This all started when the owner let a dock line tangle and wrap around the pro..

I still can not get a picture posted... I will keep trying

Allure2sail

Hi:
Does the transmition have enough lubricant in it? They use automobile automatic  transmition fluid. There is a bolt on the top of the trans that is actually a dipstick to check the fluid level.
Perhaps the dock line might have put a slight bend in the shaft when it wrapped onto it. Have a machinist or mechanic put a dial indicator on the shaft just before it goes into the shaft seal. With the trans in neutral turn the shaft by hand and watch the dial indicator for runout.
Try determining where the noise is coming from? The transmition or the stuffing box (shaft seal).
If in neutral the shaft is hard to turn by hand then try to back off the nuts used to adjust the shaft seal
(stuffing box) a flat or two to see if it turns easier by hand.
PS I sometimes call it a shaft seal but the real name for it is the "stuffing box". I know I'll get called on that one LOL.

brackish

#6
PS I sometimes call it a shaft seal but the real name for it is the "stuffing box". I know I'll get called on that one LOL

Not from me since I often use "packing gland" as a descriptor.  More of an industrial term, but same thing.

The challenge for me was finding decent spanner wrenches that would fit where they needed to fit to adjust the packing nut.  On my last boat with an inboard I found a couple of box wrenches (huge suckers) at an auction and cut them off with a cutting torch so they had five inch long handles.  They could also be considered extra ballast.:)