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Need to Repair Boom Cap (Dismasting over the Weekend)

Started by yknot, April 11, 2011, 05:01:58 PM

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yknot

Had an interesting sail over the weekend...

I ordered a new set of sails for my 16 (Dirk at National Sail Supply, thanks to those who gave great advice on another thread).  Well, I guess that they worked a little TOO well...  After enjoying about 45 minutes of tacking as close into to the wind as I could (probably around 15 kn of wind), I heard a SNAP and down came the mast.  Neither of the two of us  were hurt, and there doesn't seem to be any damage to the mast step or cabin-top (although I have not thoroughly check it out yet).

From what I can tell, the turnbuckle attached to the forestay broke.  See if you can picture this in your head:  The turnbuckle has a body with two threaded 'bolts' (one at each end).  At the ends of these 'bolts' (not sure of the actual term) is a 'metal cylinder' that forms almost a 'tee' with the threaded bolt.  This joint was where the compromise happened.  the 'cylinder' broke apart from the threaded bolt.

I had some success (once again, thanks to another thread here) on replacing the turnbuckle (I even ordered THREE for the same price as one would have been from W Marine), might as well replace them all, right?  I am assuming that they are the original 1980 set.

Here's my next issue:

The boom received so much pressure that the 'endcap' broke free.  It is the end where the boom connects to the mast.  It looks like it is fine, except the 3 rivets sheared.  Otherwise, it doesn't look like it suffered any damage at all.  It just slides back into place, no problem, but I'm not sure how to secure it.  I was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with this.  I don't own any riveting equipment.  Could I use an oversized screw of any type?

Let me know if my description is not clear.  I'll try to take a photo or two when I get a chance.

Rob
Sarasota, FL     

Billy

Rob, you could buy a riviting gun at Home Depot for around $10 and more rivits than you will need for another 5. You tube how to rivit and you should be as good as new! Man I wish my dismasting was that cheap! IT's really easy, REALLY.

My casing at the goosneck of the boom broke and I got a new one from teh factory (I live just down the street). They had them in stock (I own a 19) so if by any chance the casing did break you can go there for a new one.
1983 Com-Pac 19 I hull number 35 -no name-

yknot

Huh...  that would be really cool, I'll get down to HD when I get a chance to see what they have in stock.  I have the old rivets still for reference.

Everything seems to be fine with the unit itself, it's actually neat to the the inner workings (the spring, etc...).

Thanks for the idea!

Bob23

Are they aluminum or stainless steel rivets? I'd imagine stainless would be stronger, eh?
bob23

rip

Hey Rob, Not clear to me. Did you get the new turnbuckles from Hutchins? Thanks, ralph

yknot

Actually, I got them from this site:

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststop.html

A really good site to measure your current hardware is at:

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=S0105

I ultimately went with 'bang for the buck,' hope I'm satisfied with the product (free shipping from Marine PartDepot).

Rob

skip1930

#6
So the rivets sheared at the tac, where the boom attached to the mast. Cool! I'll bet these sheared as the mast came back wards and the boom became nearly parallel with the length of the mast. Wanting to pull the Bloom's tac up toward the top-o-mast, and hence the grand bind.

Well re-rivet if the original rivet holes if they are still round. Even if they are not still round, re-rivet anyway, and pop in a few more rivets. I'd go with steel rivets [stainless if you can find them...stainless or steal they are still the same hardness]  but you being in salt...I don't know. Screws would work too but are more work to install.

Hint: The rivet guns could use a bit more leverage, so two 12" long pipes to go over the rivet gun handles will make for less muscle needed.  After installing the rivet into the gun [with the handles fully closed] be sure to tap on the business end of the gun and make sure the rivet is all the way home before you start pumping the rivet gun. Otherwise the rivet will not be drawn up tight between the two surfaces. Many times you'll have to unscrew the head of the rivet gun apart to separate the jaws that hold the shank of the pulled rivet to be able to re-load the next rivet. Especially if your using steel rivets.

It's a pain but it's still fun to rivet.   You know....you could always flip the boom tube end for end and reinstall both end caps...that will probably get you a new surface to re-install rivets and caps.


skip.

Tim Gardner

Skip's end for end flip is a good idea and bears consideration even if there is no damage to the boom visible to the naked eye; there could be microscopic damage that could rear it's ugly head later.

TG
Never Be Afraid to Try Something New, Remember Amateurs Built the Ark.  Professionals Built the Titanic (update) and the Titan Submersible.

yknot

I'll have to think about the boom-flipping idea...  Unfortunately it adds up to more work (hence less sailing), but it bears consideration.  I'll really take a good look at the current end before doing any riveting.  The holes seem unharmed.  I haven't yet bought a gun, nor rivets, and will consider the composition before making a purchase.

Thanks for the tips on the actual riveting.  I've never done this type of thing before, but I'm assuming that it's not rocket science.  Good ideas about making sure it's firmly in, as well as the pipes for added leverage.  Keep any additional ideas coming!

I'm hoping to get this done this weekend...  & possibly catch a good breeze...

Rob

skip1930

#9
Well riveting really can't go bad. Take the cordless and drill out any bad rivets that you don't like. For me to sink 6 rivets, I'd usually use up about 9.
But that's just my usual pickyness.

The drill size is the rivet size ie, 1/8" or 3/8" dia x 1/8", 1/4" , 3/8", 1/2", 1" long.  I don't know without looking.  It's the boom thickness plus the cast insert going into the boom plus a smidgen more.
This can be done on the boat, even on the water. Including raising the mast on a CP-19.

skip.

Billy

Agreed w/ Skip, Riviting is fun! I was scared at 1st too, but it really is easy and looks WAY better than screws and much stronger
1983 Com-Pac 19 I hull number 35 -no name-

yknot

Done deal then...  I'll be known as 'Rob' the Riveter this weekend!  Maybe I'll play some old-school AC/DC Whole lotta 'Rosie' while I work.. ;-)