Cracks under genoa tracks

[Tim F]

Hi,

My 1988 CP16-3 came to me with genoa tracks installed. They run most of the length of the coaming and are attached with machine screws of about 1" length. Both sides of the boat have developed cracks beneath each track around the screws. Some of the cracks look to be more than superficial but I have not seen any movement of the tracks or cracks when the track is under load while sailing.

Is this the standard way these tracks are installed on our boats? It is a common problem? I didn't see any similar references when I searched the old postings. I was surprised to find they were not through-bolted with backing. I would have a hard time changing the fasteners to bolts because there is flotation foam installed behind each seat back and it take up most of the coaming volume.

Any advice on how to repair this area. I have no experience with fiberglass work but am not afraid to try it if that would be the preferred way to handle this.

Thanks in advance.

-Tim

[skip1930]

Tim that is a tough question and a even tougher solution.

These are stress cracks. They happen because the 'Gel' coat is just that a GLASS, and Glass won't bend but will crack.
They are not structural but totally unsightly.
The boat is fine but boy it's hard to convince yourself of that.

There is a stress crack filler that is sold by West Marine, but it hardly works very well. I tried it. I don't like it.
Colors don't match and it's a pain to achieve any mil thickness to fill in the crack.

If your willing to paint, you can rough the surface up, roll-on a two part epoxy,  sand smooth, paint and screw the track back down.

I'd use ss machine screws and figure out how to put a flat washer and a lock washer and a nyloc-nut onto the new machine screws.
This may make grinding and cutting the foam out of the way necessary.

The foam is not for foliation but rather to deaden the sound resonating through the hull and to add a tad of stiffness in the combing.
Believe me, you fill that boat up with water and she'll sink like a rock with all the cement and lead in the keel.

So here is what I might consider doing if not planning on painting epoxy over the top of the combing.
Unscrew the tracks.
Clean with Soft Scrub the uncovered area.
Dry.
Go find yourself some 1/4"  UHMW, Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic.
Cut to fit under the track, drill and screw back down or bolt down with machine screws and nuts.

My boat did not come with a stern pulpit or stanchions so I cut UHMW pads and bolted all that down.
It was a real pain to get the washers and nuts started from under the XL cabin liner. I actually super glued them to my finger and felt around for the bolt that was turned by my assistant from outside of the boat. A lot of wood wedging took place to move the XL open.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FASTENERS BECAUSE THAT OVER STRESSES THE GEL COAT CAUSING CRACKS. Again glass doesn't bend.

skip. Anybody have a better idea?

No I don't know how to make the paint colors match, other then to paint all of it.

[Tim F]

Skip,

Thanks for the response. I think I'll go with the epoxy and paint solution.

Any idea how to come up with a close paint match to the original (?) white gelcoat on my 88 CP16? Any recommended paint? I'd probably pick a one-part paint like Interlux Brightsides for this unless I hear other recommendations.

Thanks.

-Tim

[Greene]

As long as the cracking is just cosmetic, I would install some nicely shaped and stained teak to create a wooden base.  This would add some more "salty" to the look of your boat.  Hey Salty19, didn't you have some teak under your genny tracks on your 16?

Mike

[Salty19]

The factory setup of drilling the tracks into the coaming with wood screws is the achilles heel of the CP16.  The tracks can definitely come out without through bolting.

Greene,

Not exactly what he's looking for, but here's what i did to the 16.
The 4 brass spacers/risers have a threaded rod throughbolted and fastened with 2" wide x variable length (appx 2 feet) aluminum plate on the under side of the foam.  The long length of the plate extends to the neighboring hole, spreading out to the load nicely  The teak rail and tracks will NOT come out of there--the foam is actually very stiff and with the long backing plate, pulling out just is not going to happen.  Not to say the foam won't deform over time, so far it has not but surely in 10 years they may need some attention again.

I suppose what I would do here as Greene said is to hide the holes with a long piece of curved teak cut to match the coaming, through bolt it and screw the tracks into the teak. This would look good, fulfill the purpose and add strength to the tracks. I would still fill the holes left behind with some epoxy just to keep leaks at bay. It won't have to match with wood over it and should be fairly strong. 

Then again if this seems like too much work or maintenance, skips plan will work well. 

[kickingbug1]

   you can also climb in there and with a friend use stainless machine screws with large washers and nuts

[Tim F]

Thanks for the advice. The teak track base IS very nice. I'll have to reconsider that option.

-Tim

[Ferd Johns]

Gosh, Skip, I thought the 16 was the only ComPac with positive flotation installed. Maybe I'm mistaken, but I'd sure check with the factory before I permanently removed that foam. It would be a shame to lose the benefits of positive flotation, assuming the boat actually has it. Sure wish my 19 did.



Ferd Johns

[Salty19]

Kick--Trouble with screws is you can't find them long enough.  They are a good 10" and more of threaded rod for each riser.  The aft most hole there was not foam. Had to cut them perfectly and file down.  On top are flush barrel nuts so the tracks run true.  No biggie, more work up front but then it's done.

Ferd, unfortunately the foam in the CP16 is no where near enough to keep it afloat.  All of these boats will sink if too much water is shipped aboard.

[KPL]

The cracks may be more than a cosmetic issue.  In the summer of 2008, I had the genoa track rip of the coaming.  I was out in about 15 knots of wind with just the 155 genoa, no main.  I had the cars towards the back of the track to flatten the sail !as much as possible.  When I tacked the wind filled the sail and the track came up like a zipper.  ZLING!  Definitely an attention getter!  I quickly pushed the tiller back to head up and rolled the sail and headed home under the trolling motor.

Upon inspection, I found as you had, that there where just stainless screws into the fiberglass.  My first attempt to thought was to thru bolt, but the foam appeared to be glassed in place from underneath as well (it's a 1982 model).   The next thought and attempt was to drill out each hole and fill with thickened epoxy, with the thought of tapping into the epoxy plug that was resulted.  That didn't work as well as I hoped (the epoxy didn't harden as well as I hoped, probably a goof on my part).

My last and current fix was to use dry wall anchors and stainless screws.  The anchors spread as the screw goes in, giving a really good hold.  The track hides them, so they aren't exposed to UV.  I've inspected them several times since and they seem to be holding well.

Let us know what you decide to do and how you make out.

Kevin

CP16 Opportunity