Beeswax and Teak oil

[Goodrun]

In the past I have cleaned the teak, sanded and then applied teak oil. The only problem is that the oil evaporated in about a week so it had to be oiled weekly.
This year I decided to mix up some beeswax in with the oil. I had seen this used with other wood finishes such as linseed oil so why not with teak oil? So I melted some beeswax with a hotplate and small pan and added about 2 to 3 parts teak oil to 1 part beeswax. Carefull when heating the wax because it can start on fire if it gets too hot. I applied it to the wood and polished it out the next day with a little stainless steel wool and a rag. It looks good and the wood has a smooth waxy feel. Now I just need to wait a few weeks to see how it will hold up. Hopefully it will work better. Anyone else ever heard of adding beeswax to wood oil?

[Bob23]

Goodrun:
   Interesting that you would bring this up. I just bumped into a friend of mine who is making wood surfboards. He has experimented with a finish of linseed oil and beeswax. He loves it...repels water, easy to maintain, and good grip for the bare feet which is neccesary for a surboard.
   I wonder how a thinned concoction of this sort would work in interior teak?
Bob23-just my 2 cents

[Donzen]

Assuming here you are talking about exterior teak - right?

Well, if so, I am one who is tired of all the old and new finishes that come on the market from time to time.  I have it in my mind to use only the products I have on hand in the garage and will use them until they are gone.

So here are some thoughts:

1.  I have a lot of Tongue Oil around - I'm gonna try two light coats of tongue oil and record my results and observe the longevity of this application

2.  I have been tempted to try "Thompsons" or "Olympic" deck preservative (Clear) on the teak once cleaned. - I mean, What the Hey! a deck on your house suffers the same extremes of H2O, Sun, wet, dry, walking, running (maybe more) than your boat.  OK - your house doesn't get salt water rain I admit, but we all wash our boats down when we get back to dock - so I'm thinking why not?!  I'm gonna try it unless somebody out there already has and can advise their results....please advise.  I am very interested in trying this.

[Craig Weis]

When interior teak woods needs to be brightened up I grab fresh cheese cloth and my can of old Minwax and rub my way to a warm glow, the kind that satisfies more then Ummmmm Uhmmmm Gooood soup.

For exterior teak I made a mistake. Should have left the teak wood alone and in it's natural grayish color and simply brighten the teak up with Star-Brite Teak Brightener.  A mild acid that kills off those nasty bugs that darken the wood's grain.

Why I ever washed the teak with a surfactant, wire brushed the teak, brightened the teak chemically, let dry, mask and Cetol my gorgeous wood is far beyond comprehension. 'Cept for the drop board which is just plywood. Nothing special. That will get 5 coats of Cetol with a wee bit of sanding between coats. The tiller just a seasonal steel wool scratching and three or four fresh schooner varnish coats.

We all make mistakes. I thought that I'd simply let the Cetol rot off for a season or two with the help of a brass wire brush and some Star-Brite Teak brightner, back to it's beautiful natural hue.

My  buddy thought he would step ahead of the curve and use Thompson Water Seal. Wrong-O!! He ended up rubbing that stuff off with chrome bumper rubbing compound. Something I use of my cabin and cockpit and deck. Then a good coating of Mother's Wax, as rubbing compounds leave zero residue unless one fails to rub off all the applied compound.
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