motor mount stress

[roland cobine]

    i have a small 2.5 h.p. outboard on my cp16. it's one of the old aircooled "cruise and carry" models. i haven't weighed it but it weighs considerably less than a water cooled johnson 2 horse i have. the previous owner always left the motor on the mount while he trailered the boat and i dont see any cracks where the mount bolts onto the transom. i just wondered if anyone knows what the recommended weight limit on the mount is. if i can avoid putting the motor near the wench stand than i will.

[B.Hart]

Hi Roland, I have a 1996 2 hp evinrude on my 16. I would guess the motor mount is original on my 1975 16, and there is no stress crack on the transom, I remove the motor to trailer if I have room to put it in the tow vehicle. The last couple of years I have been towing with a JEEP and I leave it on the boat.      BILL

[Rick Klages]

I leave my 3.5 tohatsu 2 stroke on the motormount while towing.  If I were going farther than my local boat ramp I would stow it.  When I brought it home from lake Nockamixon Pa. to Eastern Long Island Ny it was stowed.

ick

[multimedia_smith]

Hi folks,
I use the Honda BF2 Long shaft... it weighs only 28lbs.  I leave it on the mount while trailering.... But I do take the weight off the mount somewhat by running a strap from the rear cleats around the back of the motor and  ratchet it tight 'till the mount comes up close to the boat.  I took the metal hooks off the ends of the strap and use the soft nylon eyes that used to go on the hooks to wrap around the cleats.  I also run my bow line to the rear cleat and then behind the motor to the rear cleat on the other side.  So far no cracks.  The transoms on these boats are really solid... although I do plan a future project to cut up my old aluminum rudder to make a large backing plate for the motor mount and also for the rudder.
Best Regards
Dale

[Lost Lake]

Ooooops!!!

I have been leaving my 9.8 Mercury on the mount while trailering. I wondered if that was proper. No cracks, but I think I'll make a bracket to mount it to the trailer as it goes down the road.

I think I'll weld a permanent ladder on the trailer and put a motor mount on that.

[roland cobine]

   wow a 9.8 merc and no problems----guess i need not worry about a 2.5 hp. these little boats are indeed "built"

[Bob23]

Ahoy, men:
   I don't trailer my 23 except to and from the boat yard which launches her for me. At her mooring, I also run a line from the stern rail to the motor mount to relieve some of the stress.  The mount seems to enjoy lowering itself without my permission.
   cheers! Bob23 on the hard in NJ and varnishing (again)

[Potcake boy]

Hey folks,
Wanted to put up an idea that has worked well for me and I haven't seen it put forth on the forum.

It addressed two concerns about motor mounts expressed here and one additional complication of my own.

My CP19 came to me with the original factory bracket and a Yamaha 8hp high thrust 25" shaft 4 stroke. It also has electric start and tilt - a heavy motor that is capable of a lot of torque on the mount. The boat also came with some serious stress cracks and distortion of the transom.

I already had a 15" Yamaha 6hp four stroke which was much lighter. More than enough motor for his vessel, but I could see cavitation problems in a heavy seaway.

I had already decided to change to a mid boom main sheet with traveler and don't like having left over holes to patch. I had recently visited the boat store - the first in years and got a really big sticker shock. I had a new reason to reuse all the gear the boat came with.

It happens that I had been considering some sort of multi purchase system to raise the motor because of the difficulties doing that while leaning over the stern rail and fiddling with the locking lever on the bracket.

So - putting all these objectives together I was fortunate to come up with a single solution: I removed the bolt that serves as a locking pin for the release handle. Now the bracket travel has been increased by maybe four inches in the downward travel arc so my motor is deep enough that I have had no problem with cavitation even in a rather large head sea.
To raise and secure the motor I used the existing swivel cleat of the original main sheet system - strapped the old boom end Garhauer double block to the stern rail directly above and added a double block to the T handle on the locking lever of the motor bracket. I now have a 4 purchase system to raise and lower the bracket from a seated position in the cockpit, and all the motor weight is taken on this system so there is no stress on the transom.

At full retracted position the motor is almost clear of the water, producing virtually no drag, tilting the motor to it's first shallow water drive position brings it clear. No more duck tail sticking out of the the back of the boat.

I also added a simple lock lever for the lowered position the prevent riding up when in a heaping sea or when operating in reverse.

This is the first big improvement I've experienced with these retracting brackets and it nicely addresses several problems with nominal outlay. It's embarrassing to be bawling like a spoiled child in the boat store, because you have to put some of the much needed shiny stuff back.

It's been a while since my CP16 days, and I've not examined a 23 that closely, but I'm confident that the same would work on at least these two other boats.

If anyone is interested in trying it on your boat remember that I used the factory end boom sheeting system to achieve this. Personally I felt the lack of a traveler was enough reason to act and this was a nice byproduct. I would be happy to take some pics and provide on this forum if requested.

Ron

[Craig Weis]

On my mount, which is the same as yours, as Com-Pac buys the same mount for most of it's boats,  the weight is not a problem. The only limit for mine is 25 hp. I use 5 hp. skip.