News:

Howdy, Com-Pac'ers!
Hope you'll find the Forum to be both a good resource and
a place to make sailing friends.
Jump on in and have fun, folks! :)
- CaptK, Crewdog Barque, and your friendly CPYOA Moderators

Main Menu

track length for jib/genoa cleats?

Started by Carol, September 06, 2007, 09:51:57 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Carol

Hi, again.
Well, this is the last season for the jib cleats...I guess 27 years is good enough. :-)

My 16/I wasn't equipped with tracks/slides for the cleats.  I'm planning to upgrade to Harken dinghy track with bullseye/cam cleat slides.  I was thinking of installing 18" track...sound like the right length?  I will eventually add a 155 genoa to my sail inventory.

BTW, the boomkicker install is stalled...I'm trying to find a way to make it fit with the vang, as they both seem to want to occupy the same space.  I might end up moving the vang.  Dale, what's the distance from mast to vang along the boom on your installation?

Also picked up a new set of halyard cleats like on the new Legacy...can't wait to try those out as well!  Will make sail handling much easier from the cockpit without having to add a bunch of stuff to the deck.

Carol.

multimedia_smith

#1
Hi Carol,
Sounds like the answer is "YES" to the question..."are we having fun yet?"...

If you're considering a genoa track, I would highly recommend going with the ComPac factory track... it follows the curve of the coaming and runs almost the entire length... the 155 genoa likes to be sheeted as far aft as possible and you will want to slide the car forward for the standard jib in high winds.  I don't think 18" of travel will be worth the effort.  Others have posted at length about the difficulties involved with the genoa track install - removing the foam and adding backing under the coaming... you can just use the "search" capacity on this site to research.
Here's a source for the swivel cleats for the 5/8 Ronstan track at Annapolis Performance Sailing (APS) site... here's the link:

http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d78000/e77959.asp

Now, for your boomkicker install, I'm assuming you got the smaller boomkicker which does not have a fixed attachment point on the boom, but rather a nylon sling on which the boom rests.  The distance from mast to vang along the boom is determined by the length and angle of the kicker struts.  Since the distance from the boom to the bottom of the mast is relatively short on the CP 16, I had to shorten the two fiberglass rods to make the angle close to 45 degrees.  This makes the force push more upward than backward like it's supposed to.  The length from the end of the boomkicker to the pin is 23" on mine...  The amount of upward force is adjusted by the line between the mast and the sling.  You should have some bend in the fiberglass rods when the vang is tightened or straight when slacked.
http://www.com-pacowners.com/gallery2/displayimage.php?album=49&pos=35

As for the halyards... I replaced the horn cleats on the hatch rail with jam cleats through bolted with 1" plexi stand offs on the cabin roof.  I only use the side cleats as "back up" in case the jam cleat slips.  I put some smaller jam cleats in place of the original horn cleats on the hatch rail wood to hold lighter loaded things like the jib downhaul and whisker pole line.  I'd like to see the Legacy hardware.  Here's my setup.
http://www.com-pacowners.com/gallery2/displayimage.php?album=49&pos=23

Cheers

Dale

finchm

I bought the tracks from the factory last year.  I received VERY short 18" style tracks.  I ended up replacing them with longer tracks.  You can get all the parts from APS for a reasonable price.

Carol


Carol

#4
also, based on the pic at

http://www.tropicalboating.com/sailing/sailboat-reviews/compac-legacy.html

the new hardware for the halyards appears to be a Ronstan RF5

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|295771|311612&id=89529

It also appears the line just drapes into the cabin, which is fine by me as I'm usually the only on onboard.

Thanks, Dale, for the info on the boomkicker.  I thought I might have to shorten it a bit.  At this point I think I'll wait until the off season so I don't waste any of the few sailing days left :-)

And yes, I'm having lots of fun.  I've also become one with the cranky old outboard...handy since I keep forgetting how early it gets dark these days.

finchm

I bought the 5' long tracks and cut around 6-10" off them.  This is really just a guess.

APS charged me $32.25 each for the long tracks.   HUTCHINS charged me $37.10 EACH for the short tracks.

The APS part number is RC819015.

Hutchins is nice to deal with and their package of parts included a diagram of what the install should look like, included screws, etc.  Their prices are a little high though.  Doing this through APS should save you around $50, and will give you longer tracks.

The kit from Hutchins cost me $204.72 including shipping on 7/12/06.  It included the 18" tracks, swiveling bullseye camcleats, track ends, screws, and instruction sheet.


multimedia_smith

#6
Hi... Thanks for the link.  I really like the swivel cam cleat on the mast for the halyards... what an elegant solution Hutchins has added... when my cheek blocks go... I might be tempted...
Absolutely... sail when you can and save the "tinkering" for the days when you can't.  With your season coming to an end, you must live in the great North... We are just about ready (finally) to start ours in earnest.  I can't wait 'till those cool fronts start coming down... it's been way to miserable this summer to sail.

finchm,
(or whatever we should call you)... I don't know about the 18" track... mine is 60" on each side.  IMHO, the factory package is the way to go... the standard Ronstan 5/8 track is straight whereas the Com Pac one has the exact curve of the cockpit coaming... they are great to work with... I can't imagine going to a car dealer and asking for parts for a 20 year old model and then having them available in stock.

These are great little boats... let's keep them going.

Best to all

Dale

roland cobine

    after i made my jib furling system the jib sheet blocks appeared too close so bought 16" tracks and cars fashioned mounts using 1/4 inch aluminum shaped to match the bottom of the original blocks. i removed the original blocks, drilled land tapped the aluminum to accept the cars on one side and the blocks on the other and mounted the tracks to the combiing. i only sailed twice with this arrangement but it seemed to work great. i dont know if the exact size of the sail i used , but it was a johnson sail blue and white diagonal striped.   pictures when i can