Ruddder repair?

[FWFIV]

On my 1981 CP 23 there is a bolt which is tightened to hold the rudder in position (up or down).  I believe the threads have broken where the "tight " position is.  So I can't hold the rudder in position (up or down) with this bolt.  I didn't see this piece for sale on the parts list from ComPac (only the bushing and complete assembly were there) and am wondering about finding a replacement.  Any ideas?  If not I will use multiple washers to space past the bad threads but am worried that the others may go as well.

[mike gartland]

I assume that the threads on the bolt are stripped, not on the brass arm that you tighten.  When I have removed the bolt in the past, I don't remember it being anything more than a common (stainless steel) stove bolt that should be availbale in most marine hardware departments.  I was on my 23 yesterday and could heve confirmed this but didn't see your post till this morning.  I would pull the bolt and head for the nearest marine hardware shop.  Good luck.

Mike

[Bob23]

Mike_
   I believe you are correct. The bolt appears to be a standard stainless bolt. And that brass lever is not really neccesary; it could be a nut. Once it's tightened to where it should be, it doesn't need adjusting. This is not designed to hold the rudder in the up position. There's way too much weight for that bolt to hold it up- maybe that's why it stripped!
   My 1985 23/2 has a jamb cleat mounted on the rudder head which holds a line coming from the back of the rudder blade that holds the rudder up when I moor the boat. I also tie this line to the stern rail for added insurance.
   If your 23 doesn't have this cleat, one could easily be added.
   Ah, the joys of boat ownership! I tinker, therefore I am! 
   Bob in "Koinonia" out!

[dawntreader]

fwfiv

the rudder pivot has been a problem since day one one my 23.  I have replaced it with a SS bolt & lock nut.  Even tightened, fast winds or heavy seas will cause it to ride up resulting in significant weather helm.  My solution for longer trips has been to drill a small hole through the assembly and insert a nylon bolt.  Friction will hold the bolt in place, this holds the rudder down, and it will shear if the water gets skinny.

mike

[mike gartland]

I second the use of a nylon bolt to hold the CP-23 rudder in it's down position.  I obtained several nylon bolts from IdaSailor when I ordered their replace foil rudder...a great upgrade for anyone who hasn't yet tried it.  I've sheared one pin scraping bottom and found that the parts of the sheared pin jammed the rudder part way up.  It was jammed so badly that I couldn't force out while underway.  I ended up limping back into port with the heavy weather helm that a partially retracted rudder produces and had to drill it out with an electric drill (which I now try to carry aboard at all times).  After this experience I drilled out the cast aluminum rudder housing and the foil rudder itself to a slightly larger diameter so that any future sheared pins would come free from both components.  Of course, since doing this I've managed to keep enough water under WindRush to not repeat the problem.

I was actually a little surprised that the rudder pin sheared since I would have thought that the keel would have gouged a trough through the soft clay bottom sufficiently deep enough to allow the rudder to clear.  I think the problem arose because the IdaSailor foil rudder is slightly longer than the original Hutchins aluminum slab rudder and therefor may extend slightly deeper than the keel.  Next time I pull the boat from the water I plan to verify this.

I seem to also remember that the ComPac 23 owners manual talks about a steel pin that would have come with the boat from the factory which accomplishes the same thing.  It was no longer with the boat when I acquired her so can't give any details of dimensions or composition, but the implication is that Hutchins always intended for the use of a pin to hold the rudder down in addition to the brass nut lever and bolt.

Mike G

[HideAway]

Sorry this is so late.  Concerning using a steel or metal pin to hold the rudder down-- Don't.   If you run aground hard enough you'll rip the whole thing off grunions and all .  I redrilled the hole making it larger than the 1/8" wood dowel I insert.  Make the dowel so it protrudes 1/2" on either side.  You may have to use a plastic disc cut from a milk jug or in my case a plastic license plate. to hold the dowel in place.  Drill a hole in the discs and use one on either side of the rudder.   Its important to make the hole in the rudder larger than what ever dowel you use-- they swell up and can be difficult to remove.  Its also important to leave enough of the dowel exposed so you can pull it out with a pair of pliers if necessary.   Now when you run aground the dowel will just snap off.  Save the metal one for trailering.

As the rudder kicks up for whatever reason its always a pain to get it back down.  I use a 3/4" schedule 40 [not the thinner irrigation pipe] with a tee fitting on top and a fitting on the bottom attached to the existing line that holds the rudder up.   I plan to get a longer tiller bolt and let the tee fit into it.   Now if the rudder kicks up after hitting a crab trap I can push it back down easily and without the usual theatrics.