Cabin top grab rail removal

[RileyBoo]

Hi all,

On my 1990 27, I'm in the process of refinishing my cabin top grab rails, and I noticed that one side has caulking around each base indicating there may have been a prior leak.  Not sure why they didn't just caulk both sides for good measure, but I digress.

So I'm thinking this may be a good reason and time to remove them where I can more easily refinish them off the boat, and then re-bed them properly.

1.  How difficult are they to remove? It seems you would just remove the nuts on the inside of the cabin top, but are they stuck down with anything serious?

2.  Would butyl tape be the best way to re-bed them, or would something else be more appropriate?

Any insight would be helpful.  Thanks in advance!

[BobK]

Unless the previous owner used 5200 the grab rails will be fairly easy to remove.  Butyl tape is the sealant I use.
BobK

[bruce]

I agree with Bob. Especially above the waterline, and not under any great load, butyl tape is great.

[wes]

Dissenting view here. I like butyl for sealing metal to metal or metal to fiberglass connections, where both ends of the fastener are accessible for the ongoing tightening that butyl requires over a period of weeks or months as it s-l-o-w-ly compresses and squeezes out. Stanchion bases are a good example.

Teak handrails aren't a good application, because once you fill the bolt holes with bungs and start varnishing, you can no longer hold the bolt head secure while you tighten the acorn nut on the bottom. So your choices are a loose connection, or the risk of spinning the bolt and breaking the seal on the butyl.

I would use 3M 4200.

Wes

[BobK]

I find you countersink or drill a slight V in the fiberglass where the bolt goes through the cabin top, the butyl tape will compress and seal around the bolt as it is tightened.
BobK