Anchor/Bow Cleat

[Cpy23ecl]

Just curious if anyone has come up with a good solution for dealing with the interference of bow lines and the anchor stock.  The stock of my Rocna anchor comes all the way back to the bow cleat so the dock lines would be chafing on either the top or  the bottom edge of the anchor stock.

The best thing I've thought of so far is make a U shaped block out of teak that keeps the anchor stock raised up off the deck 2-3" and captures the stock in the U but it doesn't feel very elegant to me.

Also was surprised that there wasn't a cleat or eye to fasten the bitter end of the anchor rode to in the anchor locker.  Not sure the bulkhead of the locker is substantial enough to mount a cleat on so thinking I may just make a big "fender washer" to tie the bitter end to that would be large enough that it couldn't pass through the deck pipe.   Any other thoughts?

Thanks

Fred

[wes]

Fred - This has been covered in a related post recently, but I think it bears repeating for those (not you) who aren't aware: the bitter end of the anchor rode, hanging in the locker, isn't meant carry any load whatsoever. That's the job of the anchor cleat on the deck.

Maybe Hutchins doesn't put a cleat inside the locker to prevent that confusion.

I made a little disk of leftover teak (about 3" dia.) with a 1/2" hole in the center to keep the bitter end from accidentally pulling all the way out of the locker. Looks very salty!

Wes

[Cpy23ecl]

Fred - This has been covered in a related post recently, but I think it bears repeating for those (not you) who aren't aware: the bitter end of the anchor rode, hanging in the locker, isn't meant carry any load whatsoever. That's the job of the anchor cleat on the deck.

Maybe Hutchins doesn't put a cleat inside the locker to prevent that confusion.

I made a little disk of leftover teak (about 3" dia.) with a 1/2" hole in the center to keep the bitter end from accidentally pulling all the way out of the locker. Looks very salty!

Wes

That's worth mentioning again.  I am aware that it's not for load at anchor but I definitely want to make sure that it can't accidentally end up at the bottom of Lk MI if someone other than myself is deploying the anchor.  You just never know.  What you described with the piece of teak was the same thing I was thinking rather than mounting a cleat in the locker.

Thanks

Fred

[Cpy23ecl]

Can anyone provide me with the distance from the deck to the bottom of the furler?  I'm trying to figure out how to mount an anchor in the roller and fitting on the bowsprit and neither my 6kg rocna nor my fortress seem to fit well enough to store the anchor on the bowsprit.

I've got a couple ideas of how to make it work but only if the anchor shank won't interfere with the furler.  Since I won't be getting the boat out of the barn and rigged until spring I was hoping someone in warmer climates might still have theirs rigged.

Also curious as to what anchor you use on your eclipse and how you store it.

Thanks in advance.

Fred

[slode]

My application may not be accurate for most Eclipses but maybe this will help.  When I stepped the mast for the first time after getting my Eclipse it was raked pretty far forward, it actually had some uncomfortable lee helm the first time out.  The turnbuckles on the shrouds were almost all the way out and the forestay turnbuckle was about 2/3 out, something didn't seam quite right.  There wasn't enough in the forestay to allow the mast to get even close to vertical.  So I added a long D clevis to the steamhead, which not only gave me enough adjustment to bring the mast to vertical, the shroud turnbuckles are now about to the mid point, but it gave me more clearance under the drum for an anchor.  I use a heavy duty spring clamp to hold my delta to the roller and tie the end to the bow cleat with a short line I just leave tied to the cleat all the time.  It has held solid for thousands of miles on the road as well as some rough waters, it's easy to drop and retrieve anchor, and it doesn't get in the way of furling. 

[Cpy23ecl]

Thanks.  After playing with things more yesterday I reached the conclusion that the drum needs to be lifted about 2".  I'm very surprised the factory doesn't do that by default.  I the profurl drum on my 23 definitely sat higher than what it looks like the cdi drum will based on measurements of the mounting hardware.  I guess it could be different when I finally raise the mast in the spring.

I was talking with my dealer yesterday and we started thinking a couple of these stacked together would be an effective way to raise the drum and then replace the forestay with a shorter one.  If I'm lucky maybe my mast will rake forward like yours and using a couple of these will solve both problems.

https://www.velasailingsupply.com/hayn-marine-toggle-eye-jaw-1-4-pin/?sku=HYNTOG03&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3r2ykevF7QIVD0qGCh33awDWEAQYASABEgL48vD_BwE

From your photos I noticed that the deck pipe chain slot and anchor roller are on the starboard side while on my new boat they are on the port side.  Can't see how that makes any difference so I wonder why the change.

Fred

[slode]

Fred,

Before you shorten your forestay make sure to check fit of your genoa.  You wouldn't want to cut things then find out the luff is too long to fit in the new CDI extrusion.  But hopefully it doesn't come to that.

I've always found it a bit odd that on most pictures I've seen of the Eclipse under sail the foot of the genoa is always folded over the pulpit rail.  Mine is well clear of it.  Even before I added the D-ring shackle the sail cleared the pulpit with a few inches to spare.  And I got new sails last year and they fit the same, plenty of clearance on the foot.  I'd be interested to know if that was a factory change or what else could be different.

[Cpy23ecl]

I haven't even unwrapped all the "saran wrap" the factory uses to ship the boat so I don't really know how much length there is to work with.  My dealer mentioned that sail could be potentially raised several inches.

I will say that every one of the 5 sailboats (including my cp23) I've previously owned have had a genoa that folded over the pulpit so I suspect that's the norm as opposed to clearing the pulpit.

Fred

[Cpy23ecl]

Unwrapped both ends of the mast today and took the CDI furler apart enough to expose the forestay turnbuckle.  It turns out that I have over 2" of travel left on the turnbuckle so should be able raise the drum and have at least 5 or 6 inches of furler luff above the head of the jib. But I think I'll have to shorten the furler luff by whatever amount the drum is raised.

Looks like I'll need to ditch the rocna and get a lewmar claw but raising the drum with the hayn toggle eye jaw should give me enough clearance to store the claw anchor on the bowsprit. 

Fred

[Cpy23ecl]

I bought a 4.4 lb claw and it appears that it will work with no changes to the furler positioning as well as not hit the bobstay tube like my rocna did.  The rocna fits nicely under the v-berth so I'll have it available if I ever do find myself in a situation where I need better holding power.  Since I don't anchor all that often the small claw will make a convenient lunch hook.

I'll find out for sure in the spring when I raise the mast.

Fred