Varnish Wood on Picnic Cat

[Scott_S]

Hello fellow Picnic Cat Owners.

I live in Ohio and own a 2014 Picnic Cat. I need to refinish the wood and have a few questions.

The centerboard trunk top - If I remove the two bolts is there a hidden nut that will fall off or is it save to remove the two bolts and refinish the top? Is it easy to re-install?

Secondly, the board on the floor of the cockpit that holds the gas can against the transom - Can I remove this board or do I have to sand and refinish it while attached to the fiberglass floor?

Hopefully someone has refinished these parts and can share their experience.

Happy Sailing...

[bruce]

The teak cap on the CB trunk cover can be removed, no issues. I wouldn't remove the teak cleat on the cockpit sole unless you felt it should be rebedded anyway.

[Jon898]

+1

[glenn1489]

This may be a little off-topic, but is varnishing the wood recommended vs. teak oil? My tiller handle is varnished, but the rest has only been oiled. I applied a couple of coats of oil recently and it seems in good shape, albeit somewhat dry. Btw, my PC sits on a mooring during the sailing season. If I can get away with it, I'd prefer to re-oil a couple of times a year (I kind of enjoy that), but don't want to risk having the teak turn black.  Anyone have experience with Cetol Natural Teak? It's expensive, but may be worth it if it will last longer.

[brackish]

The age old question, oil or coat with a true sealant and if so what sealant. 

Teak will naturally turn a light grey if left to weather.  Depending on what is in the air it may blacken.  But that is just dirt, algae, pollen and other removable contaminates.  Unlike other woods, it can be restored to the original light amber color with a cleaner and a brightener.  The normal next step is to oil to retain that color as long as possible and to augment the natural oil in the wood itself. 

When I lived five minutes from my boat in a geographic area where cleaning and oiling year round was possible I did the clean, brighten and oil cycle about four times a year.  I preferred that look and enjoyed the process much more than repairing and repainting varnish.  Now that my boat is 45 minutes away and cleaning during the winter is not a good option, I've gone to various coatings that, despite their claims, I either did not like the look or the longevity was not worth the effort.

One note, the cleaning and brightening process will cause the grain to raise.  I happen to like that look so it was not an issue.  If you must have smooth it may not be for you.

[bruce]

A penetrating oil will never seal the wood as well as a film-forming varnish, but the later can be a pain to maintain, especially in full-time exposure. I'd be tempted by an oil or sealer in your case, and maintain it diligently. I understand the Cetol is thicker, and does build some. The pigment in Cetol does help protect the wood from UV, but I don't like the look. I don't know if there's a non-pigmented formulation.

For varnish, I like Pettit Z-Spar Flagship Varnish. For oils and sealers I'll pass. Practical Sailor tests finishes frequently, and some reports are available to non-subscribers. This one is typical, if dated. For a penetrating oil, they like Star Brite Classic Teak Sealer. Checking the Star Brite site, that may be pigmented as well, although the do have a clear formulation, Teak Sealer - Clear, #968.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_1/features/Best-Wood-Finishes_6004-1.html

[Jon898]

Previous discussion here: http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=6871.msg49713#msg49713

Jon

[glenn1489]

Thanks for your thoughts and links. I'll report back next year how things turn out!

[bruce]

I agree with Jon's general assessment of natural drying oils, but many current penetrating oil formulations use synthetic resins that don't share these problems. They are basically a thin varnish that serves to seal the wood rather than build up a thick coating. Star Brite Teak Sealer falls in this lot. It claims it lasts longer than traditional oils, and that it contains advanced polymers and UV inhibitors. Oddly, none of them penetrate the wood very far, including the natural oils, and none are based on the oils found in teak.

Here's another Practical Sailor article, updated in 2018, with links for varnish alternatives and teak oils that might be of interest.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_9/features/exterior_wood_10576-1.html

Good luck!

[glenn1489]

A few weeks ago, I finished my teak with Star Brite Classic Teak Sealer. So far, I am extremely pleased with the result vs. the teak oil I had been using. It went on really easy (2 coats a couple of days apart), without even using a cleaner or any other preparation beforehand (the teak was dry looking, but otherwise in good shape). The teak oil always looked dry after a very short time. I know it hasn't been too long, but it looks and feels great! If anyone is interested, I'll post another update later in the season.