Preferred shackles for both halyards

[Styge]

Hi guys,

I have gone through my first mast raising and rigging and find myself questioning a few things.

1 The shackles that came with the boat include three twist shackles and I assumed these were for the halyards.  I don't think they work that well, especially with the headsail when furled.  Curious what others use. (for each sail)

2 After fixing my jammed furler drum last week (had to drill out rivets from snap shackle anchor point, free the foil, re-rivet shackle) I find myself wondering the best way to secure the tack to the snap shackle.  Another shackle, or a piece of line? (its a Harken 00AL)

3  How close to the mast head should the head of the sail be (and likewise, how high should the boom be up the mast)? Below the opening, or above it?

4. Routing the Headsail halyard on the starboard side of the mast and the main halyard to the port seems to be the most logical way the go (to avoid them fouling the mast/fittings/spreaders, etc.) but both blocks ahead of the deck organized are on the port side, so for now I have it running under the cleat that is used for (I think) the downhaul.  Does this seem correct? It interferes with the downhaul a bit, but I can't see a better way at the moment.

5. Looks like a PO set the main up to be loose footed, so only two sail slides on the foot and a lot more up the leech.  This gives quite a bit of clearance between the leech and the mast (like 2.25") is this normal, or should I remove and just run the bolt rope up the slot?

6. Dang, should've wrote this stuff down...I guess that's it for now.

Thanks in advance for everyone 10 cents.

[brackish]

1. On my main a Wichard style pin shackle is what I use.  It is fine as long as you make sure the shackle is set right so there is the appropriate amount of tension (proper width at the opening) on the pin. https://www.riggingandhardware.com/image/popup?imagePath=%2fimages%2fproduct%2flarge%2fwic91432.jpg&altText=V2ljaGFyZCAzLzE2IEtFWSBQSU4gSFIgU0hBQ0tMRSBXSVRIIEJBUg2#

can't speak to the Jib, my CDI has an internal halyard.

2.once again, CDI not relevant

3. As close to the mast head as possible without having the headboard interfere with the backstay when tacking or jibing.  Below the opening with the first sail slide above the opening. 

4. Both of my halyards were routed to deck blocks on the port side, then to an organizer to turn them aft then to a double clutch to lock them.  I use the starboard masthead block for an adjustable topping lift since I don't need it for the CDI.  I would think you would have a lot of interference at the downhaul cleat trying to use it.  Pics below, second shows the lead blocks, organizer and double rope clutch.

5. I set mine up loose footed by leaving the bolt rope out and just using the clew slide and a four to one block set to tension the foot. 2.25" seems like a lot, I guess as long as your luff is tight with no wrinkling performance should be ok.  Mine only has slides, no rope on the luff, so no option there.  I doubt the clearance is much more than a half inch.  Keep in mind if you use a rope for the main luff to mast, you have to remove the sail every time you drop it and refeed it every time you raise it.  Not very convenient.

[Bristol14]

I have the same port side setup for my lines to cockpit. Works fine, no issues.

[Styge]

The issue I perceive is my genoa halyard exiting the masthead pulley on the starboard side, because there is a substantial fairlead on the front side below the front masthead pulley on the starboard side to lead the halyard away from the forestay to prevent the furler swivel from fouling I have concluded.  So since this seems to be the most logical option, it places the halyard tail coming out of the rear of the masthead on the starboard side with the deck block on the port side.  So I either have to cross over the head of the main way up high to come down on the port side, or lead it down the starboard side of the mast and make a turn a the base of the mast somewhere to get to the deck block.  That was a mouthful, but I hope it makes more sense.  I have two cleats at the base either side of the mast that I presume where for easy jacks (since there are two small cheek blocks up above the spreaders that have no other perceivable purpose)  Too small to terminate the halyard, but large enough to provide a pivot point to send the halyard over to the deck block.  Not ideal, but it worked.  I will try out the high up transition tomorrow, though I don't think this is a particularly good idea since it may affect the raising of the main once it gets high enough.
If I simply swap the halyards (left to right/right to left) I fear this may cause the halyard to foul the furler (Harken 00) swivel because it will be too in line with the forestay.