Centerboard lanyard replacement

[captbob57]

Hello Com-Pac Nation!
I bought a 2009 Picnic Cat and from what I've been reading is that the wood on top of the centerboard trunk is teak? I have read that removing the wood piece to finish would be no problem? It looks like 2 lag screws holds the wood to the centerboard trunk. With the wood off, is it possible to inspect and replace the centerboard lanyard? Oh, would anyone know when sailing, should the boom be in the mast just above or just below the mast hinge. I have seen pictures with the boom even with the mast hinge but I don't that is correct because that is where the slot for the gooseneck is (at least on my boat anyway). Ok one last question, would anyone know the purpose of the handle looking thing on each side of the mast just below the mast hinge? Thanks for any info! 

[bruce]

Hi Bob,

You are correct, the teak cover can be removed. The fasteners are bolts, the nuts are welded on top of the CB trunk. With the cover off, you'll find a tube the pendant passes through to the CB itself. Certainly you can check for chaffing, but the CB attachment is not accessible from above. The good news is, at least on my 2010 Magic Tilt trailer, you can slide the boat back on the trailer far enough for the CB to drop low enough to access the shackle. I slid mine back 15" when I replaced the pendant. The boat was still lying on the bunks, balanced forward of the axle, with no great lifting at the ball, but take precautions. I blocked the transom, and tied down the bow before I crawled under. Older boats came with a Performance trailer, I'm not sure where the axle is on those vs the CB.

Under sail, my boom gooseneck is just at the hinge. The actual height is set by the boom downhaul, and there is some range of adjustment possible. I don't use the long pin underway. The handles are line guides, intended to keep the halyards away from the goosenecks. Not super critical, or effective, some take them off.

[Andre]

Bruce as usual is right on with his comments.  I'll add a couple though.

My CB pendant broke once when I was sailing and I decided right then and there to replace it.  This was on a lake with relatively warm water in the summer.  I got the boat to shallow water, dove to cut the broken pendant line off the CB, tied a length of line to a little loop I formed in a straightened coat hanger or some bailing wire (I usually keep some handy), threaded it through the pendant tube, and then dove to tie it to the CB shackle.  I used a buntline hitch because it's compact, never slips, and most importantly because I was holding my breath, simple and quick to tie.  I think that's one in Bruce's photo.15 minutes for the whole operation.  That was about 3-4 years ago and I'll be due to do it again this summer, ha, ha.

Regarding boom gooseneck height relative to the hinge ...
I usually raise the boom above the hinge and insert the long pin in to support the boom a little high prior to hoisting sail.  Then when I hoist the sail I only tighten the halyards moderately tight.  I then pull out the pin and then use the downhaul to tighten the luff as appropriate.  The gooseneck usually winds up at or slightly below the hinge.  I kind of like to have it there because I think the mast stub is stronger than the section above the hinge.  With my sail (slightly modified original Doyle) the boom still easily clears the gallows.

Andre

[bruce]

I was going to use a buntline hitch, but saw that Com-Pac had used a bowline so I went with that.

My pendant was fine, but I wanted try Yale PhD line: Very soft hand, holds knots well, single braid so any splicing is easy, low stretch. I had replaced my cleat and that could handle the fat, fuzzy 1/4" line, the smallest diameter available. I checked the stock clam cleat, and the PhD could be used, but the 3/16" Samson XLS Com-Pac provides is more secure in the cleat.

In use, I like the PhD. Much easier to grip, but I will admit that by feel it's easier to confuse the pendant with the sheet. The hard, skinny XLS was easy to tell.

[captbob57]

Bruce,
Thanks for your input. I notice a lot of your comments on the forum. What a great tool to have, glad I became a member, also Bruce your photos of whatever subject are outstanding and a big help understanding things. Thanks again!

[captbob57]

Andre,
Thanks for your reply on the centerboard lanyard. Between your info and what Bruce has sent me I should have no problem replacing it. Just have to pick Bruce's trailer method or your go for a swim method! Thanks again to both of you for your input!

[Andre]

Bruce,

I see from your latest photo that you added a stand up spring to your mainsheet.  I did that too - a nice cheap addition!

Since I was doing a "field repair" I went with what I had on hand - blue  3/16 Marlow XLE I believe.  It's quite stiff when new, inexpensive, and I've used it for the 2nd reef tack line on both my boats.  For the CB application it doesn't seem to be wearing as well as the original black Samson line but then I still have the original clam cleat not a cam cleat like you.  I also have 200+ ft of it! Two other things I've done is mark the CB pendant with paint at the 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 points so I know pretty well how far down the CB is aside from helm feel, and tie a stopper knot in the pendant so the CB stops up against the line rather than the CB trunk if it's suddenly released.  I was concerned about the repeated impacts eventually doing some damage.

Andre

[Andre]

Sorry, clew line not tack line in previous post.  Duh!

[bruce]

Yah, the sheet tackle was dinging up the brightwork, and didn't always stand up straight when the sail filled.

For anyone interested, my spring is part #1692K44 from McMaster Carr, $2.08. I made a thick Delrin washer where it bears on the block, and cut a notch in a SS finish washer to capture the base of the spring at the aft screw. Works great, and for spare change. Can't say that very often!

Good ideas for the pendant, I've been meaning to mark mine.