Mast TILTING (not "raising") question

[Bob23]

Tim: Is that hinged mast the same one PeterG used on his 23 which is by Ballenger Spars? I see one on their website with a part number HMB SC27. Do tell all!!!
Bob23

[Tim Gardner]

Andy,
I used 3/4" aluminum conduit with the ends flattened for at the mast slide end 1.25" and bent 45^. The other end I slotted.375" wide x 1" deep.  The mast ends were connected to the gooseneck eye bolt.
The track ends were slid down over the car eye and fastened wit a 1/4 " bolt and wing nut.

The Condit was 7' long. And I placed the cars about 6" from the forward end.  Your mileage may vary because you intend to only go partway down.  The slide did not bind, but dry lube was necessary.

This rig is now on my H23.
TG

[Andy Knoczek]

Thank you Tim for the spec explanation! This will be my next endeavor to conquer after I get the new rub-rail on (I ordered from Matt at CP). I guess I will also incorporate your suggestion to have a goose-neck pivot to keep the mainsail and boom installed. I originally just figured I would get the boom and rigging back on after handling the mast - find a place to anchor and handle the boom, sail and sheets.

And thank you for the offer Phil, I appreciate it. My main issue is being a total independent with really no help, making a system I could use to keep as stationary as possible and still motor to my dock is paramount. I think I will enlist a hand for the maiden voyage just to have help getting it to the dock, where I can have a quiet place to construct and institute an a-frame system like TG has posted (not to mention take the time to save up money for the hardware! ><$$$$><).
I appreciate your response as your system was my main inspiration to at least have a way to get the mast down. Phil, I do have a question for you when using your original system as pictured above:

Did you have any failures of the mast tabernacle? What happened when you lowered your rig at the bolt-slot point? Does the bolt ride-up the slot even having baby stays taught? Thanks much again!

Andy K-

[philb Junkie19]

Andy,
There were no problems with the mast tabernacle. The mast pivoted on the long bolt that went through the mast and pole base and was not snugged.  The bolt did slide up in the slot as the mast pivoted on its heel. The Sta-set had enough slack and stretch for that. The forces on the tabernacle and screws are different from Tim's A frame. His fulcrum starts low on the mast with the heavier part of the mast above which creates those upward forces on the step. My fulcrum was above mid point on the mast creating downward and forward forces. If my attachment point was low in the mast I would risk losing it sideways or having the step yanked.  The tabernacle does not appear to be overly stressed used this way.  Its been a while since physics class but that's how I understand it,

My rig worked well single handed on the trailer. The mast would move a little from side to side on its up or way down but that was fine. You also have to lower it by hand the last way into the crutch. This was just fine on land. The thought of using it single handed or otherwise on the water approaching a bridge is scary. Tim's design is so much more secure and worth the investment.

[Andy Knoczek]

Thanks Phil... that's what I was wanting to know exactly!
OH, TG ! and another thought... seeing those track cars are over $100 for both... maybe I could just adapt an eye at the stanchion bases with some form of bolt-on eye for the pipe bottoms to bolt to? It would bring that connection point 6-8 inches forward from the track position you mentioned...

AND... to all interested in giving input, the bridge I am going under is in an extremely calm area. Surrounded by structure, virtually no wind influences. Also in a NO WAKE year round zone with almost no boat traffic. So pitching/heaving would not be an issue during the lower, tilt, hold, raise, secure to forward process :-)

[cal27sailor]

I really like Tim's system.  I have seen similar systems and want to try to build one for my 19.  I have tried the wooden gin pole and baby stays system repeatedly and have never been able to get it to work....and I have ripped my tabernacle out of the deck using it.  My plan is to actual use both the 12 volt winch with a remote control and the fulcrum system.  I think that will give me more control over the mast and the ability to easily pause in he lifting if I need to make adjustments one free a snagged stay. 

Tim- thanks for posting the photos of the hardware and the diagrams.  Now I have something to do this winter!

Tony

[Andy Knoczek]

Thanks to Tim's great info, I have started constructing the system. Tony's confirmation of tabernacle damage makes me feel better about not trying the gin pole and baby stays. I have reinforced the midships stanchions and added an eye-bolt to attach the frames to (Saving $100 for the u-bolt-track cars). I am hoping the eye-bolt position will be far enough aft to keep the elevated support. As I hope to do the crutch support as well like Tim suggests.
However I am still trying to locate aluminum poles. Lowes has 8' x 1" square stock that I will probably try. I'm just having trouble figuring out how to properly squeeze and bend the pole ends without breaking or compromising strength. I guess I can try good old-fashioned hammer-time. But forming the angles will be tricky. Here are some pics of what I have done so far:




On another note - The stanchions when I got the boat had tiny fender washers - no backing. I was concerned for extra strength here, so decided to beef up significantly. Hoping not too much overkill.

Also, I figured out the mast I have isn't factory original, at least I don't think so. This is the dimensional and part from Dwyer which is my exact. So I will have to get the tabernacle hinged set and organizer, after I save some more $$ of course :-)

[Craig Weis]

Mast tilt?

when I talked with Mr. Hutchins at the All Sail Boat Show at Navy Pier years ago I asked him that question.

He said straight up and down.

Craig Weis