CP16 Model Variations & Production Dates

[sonn]

CP16 History Question:

I am currently looking for a CP16 for the local lake.  As I was doing some research on the CP16 I became aware that there were several models produced.  Can someone please provide me with information regarding the various models of CP16's in so far as the major differences and the start stop production dates.

I see there was a 16-16, 16-3-17, 16XL-17, and 16CB-17.  Maybe more that I am not aware of.

[sonn]

Well, it seems like my question has got a lot of interest in the number of hits but no takers in answering.  Isn't there anyone visiting this site that can provide me with the CP 16 model variations and approximate dates of production?

[mgoller]

Hey Sonn,
I want to answer but I am not the expert.  I'll give a meager try.

The 16 was produced from 76 to 83.  Cabin top and deck stengthened with wood between fiberglass for a time during early production.  (This wood tends to deteriorate overtime)  Spartan interior, painted inside cabin, simple vinyl covered foam berths, a storage area under the platform forward of the compression post, no bow sprit, 3/4 rig for jib, no sheer stripe except for a little blue pinstripe.

The 16/2 was produced from 83 until 89?  Upgrades included deck and cabin top strengthened with micro balloon filler instead of wood, teak and mahogany trim in the cabin, richer upholstery on the berths, battens along the hull liner extending up to forepeak, ellimination of the forepeak storage compartment , uprated electrical wiring and space for the battery, with switch and fuse panel, bow sprit, 7/8ths rig.  Brown sheer stripe.

The 16/3 (now I'm guessing) 90 to 97?  Cabin lightened up with ellimination of wood trim, addition of a fiberglass white liner inside cabin, hull liner, and ceiling finished with headliner, bow sprit, 7/8ths rig.  Still the big brown sheer stripe.

The 16 XL 97 -99 I think the same as the 16/2 but with 10" square foredeck hatch and stainless cleats and boweye, fuel tank storage in cockpit.  Still the big brown sheer stripe.

The 16 CB same as XL but the addition of a centerboard other specs the same.  These came with other than white hulls, I have seen dark blue with red striping.

OK, now I will have made someone angry with the inaccuracies and the responses will start coming in.

[ilbuildit]

OK. I am not contesting any of this information but I have a 16 built in 1980 and although I haven't confirmed that the deck is or was strengthened with wood laminated with glass but my owners manual seems to make a point that the deck is made with micro balloon filler and not wood. My 16 in in almost perfect shape cause it was always stored indoors and not on the lake so the deck is sturdy. So now I am questioning what is the deck is made with.

Just for my own information. It is much appreciated how much help you (mgoller) always give on this web site as well as others.

Thanks in advance...

Lee.

[mgoller]

Yeah, you're right! 
See - I knew if I just threw something up on the wall a lot of smart people would come to my rescue.
The wood under the glass was probably only on very early run models, and maybe even just under the cabin top.  The only reason I know this is that Kevin (on our site) did all that work on 'Floridaze', an early model, and other members chimed in about having similar problems. 
Looking at the registry 'Floridaze' is hull number 254 and built in '76.  So somewhere between that hull and the writing of Robert Burgess' book the change to micro balloon filler happened.

[sonn]

Hey, thanks for the feed back!  It is much appreciated.  If anyone else has anything to add please do so.  I want to be a well informed perchaser and and limit my search to the year models that would best suit my needs.

I have always been attracted to the CP 16 but never had a real use for one before now.  I currently have a sunfish and a Columbia T-26 but now I am looking for a trailerable boat capable of accommodating two to three people that can be kept on the lake but also easy to tow and travel with.  I think the CP 16 will be perfect for what I am looking for.

Based on the length of time that the CP 16 was produced without a centerboard I assume that the boat is capable of pointing half decently without one.

Can anyone comment on the boats pointing capabilities with and without a centerboard?

[mgoller]

Sonn,
I am going to risk offending someone and tell you which 16 I like best.  The 16 II is really nice.  It has the bow sprit, the 7/8ths rig, jeefy reefing mainsail, wood trim interior, electronics installed.  Later models are nearly the same but the wood trim interior was deleted for the white fiberglass interior wrap.  Part of why we choose these boats is for their charming warm looks, why sacrifice the teak and mahogony.
As far as pointing, there are lots of comments within the site here.  You'll get close to 45 degrees.  I have sailed the 16II and the 19II.  The 19II points 45 degrees or maybe a little better.
On my 16II I run my genoa inside the shrouds and point pretty good, you can sacrifice a little speed and let the jib just channel air across the mainsail.  Once the mainsail starts luffing that's it.  In light air you can cup the leach.
Both boats will point as good as they are trimmed and with new sails they will point better.
The centerboard probably helps on long passages where you want to avoid side slip.  But for lake or coastline sailing it wont be your main concern and not worth the hassle or worth giving up the pretty interior.
Check out the pictures of "Gem" and "Sweet 16" in the gallery.  Thats my boat and the one I would recommend.

[sonn]

Marcus,

Thanks again for your valuable insight.

I am trying to schedule a look at a 1989 CP 16 this weekend.  I imagine I will probably be in the looking mode for a while till I find one that's in half decent shape.  Boats down here in Florida remain in the water or on trailers under continual attack from the intense sun and the accompanying UV coupled with the tropical moist climate and ultimately they don't fair as well as boats kept up North.  Thats one of the reasons I definitely would prefer top side cores containing micro rather than plywood.

I will keep you posted on how the search progresses and I'm sure along the way I will probably have some further questions.

Thanks again, Roger.

[KPL]

For what it's worth, I think the whole pointing thing is made in to too big of a deal.  I can get my 1982 CP16 to go wherever I want.  Sure, it doesn't point like a dingy, but I'm not in a huge hurry upwind anyway.

I've owned a Bayfield 25 and a Holder 14.  I think the CP16 is a great boat.  I've got the convenience of a small boat, but it handles like a bigger boat.  It's not touchy like sailing a dingy, it feels solid and safe.  It's got a huge cockpit for it's side, yet the cuddy is still functional.  I enjoy sitting in there with a cold beer and a nice book.  It's the grownups version of a tree fort.

I would say find a boat in good shape, don't worry so much about the model.

Kevin

[Gil Weiss]

I have a 1990 CP16/3. It has a full teak interior with the white molded head liner, lighting system, bow sprit, etc. Great boat! The sailing to windward thing has been over done in my opinion. I use an Idasailor foiled rudder and my boat sails FINE!

My 2 cents . . .

[Paul]

I'd like to chime in and agree with both KPL and Gil.  I have the 16-III (1989 by the way) as described by Gil.  Yes, the Idasailor rudder is a big improvement in sailing performance.  Pointing is not fantastic, but you'll still get there.

As for the model of 16 vs materials, concentrating on feeling for firmness (or soft spots) in the deck is more practical.  Also, look for the same in the cockpit sole, cabin sole, and compression post.  These are certianly places you want firmness.  Look under the carpet of the cabin sole for delamination.  Overall, water penetration.  This will save you headaches better than searching for deck core material, IMHO. 

Hope this helps.

Paul

PS.  Consider why you are seeking a CP-16 and remember all boats are a compromise.

[multimedia_smith]

Hi and welcome...
When I was about to make my purchase... I had the same dilemma as you... I had located a really nice '88 16III (that's what the original mainsail had on it)... it has the nice teak interior, white beaded headliner, bowsprit, genoa tracks, and 7/8 rig... and at the same time Mr. Jobst posted a notice about his new purchase and the fact that they had another on the lot of a never-been-wet, brand spankin' new '01 leftover stock 16 CB.  I actually called them to confirm its existence.

After a conversation with Woddie at Hutchins (he used to be the parts guy)... I decided on the '88.
Woddie asked me about the type of sailing I planned to do... racing? or what?  I told him that basically I wanted to fart around in our lake and maybe do some gulf coastal exploration.

He said that he owned a "plain" 16 and they raced them in Tampa Bay all the time...  He went on to say that the CB was "just something else to leak or break or have to maintain" 
I decided to keep it simple and I have been so happy with the performance of this little boat it's great.  When I hear stories of people having to replace a pendant cable or the distracting rattling when the board is up... it makes me glad I kept it simple.  Not to mention that a lot of our lake edge is pretty shallow as is Biloxi Bay... I can skim along and see the bottom without a care... the rudder will let me know if I'm too shallow.

In my opinion the trade off is a bit of performance (if you really have to hit a specific place in the water like a racing mark) V/S a lot of headache... just imagine how you would get to the CB to paint it... you can't do it on the trailer... you'd have to do a "big boat" sling treatment. 

ENJOY SAILING!

Best Regards
Dale 

[pelican]

Compac 16 began in1974 and remained unchanged until 1984 or hull 2201.. compac built a ten year anniversary model Blue hull version hull 2094 to 2134. The CP II began with hull 2202 a bow sprit 7/8 rig with spreaders. and larger jib... A teak interior with fiberglass head liner was added at hull 2325..  Model CP 16/2 introduced in 1986 hull color change to tan with hull 2330... 1988 introduced 16/3 and back to white hulls... starting with hull 2562 plus the addition of of a new fordeck hatch and halyards that led aft to cleats . The XL model saw a stern rail and safety lines added to hull 2756 in 1990   

The end and Good sailing to all

[pelican]

PS ... I am no expert either... The above information was given to me by a nice old gentleman who worked on the very first C16 boat. The best sailing advise he gave me, was to let the boat breath and not pinch her tight. She will cover ground most efficiently that way.

[Paul]

Good advise.  Thanks.
Paul