CP 19 location for thru hull depth finder and rub rail question

[Andy Knoczek]

Hello fellow CP'ers! I am in restoration mode on a beaut' little 19 hull #29. I am looking for advice on placement of a shoot-thru-hull transducer, one made by HawkEye: D10D. I wanted to bed in epoxy or silicone and shoot thru-hull. Any advice on placement local? Methods, etc etc? True experience and pros/cons etc? ALSO the P.O. had a very functional (but not aesthetically pleasing) PVC pipe rub rail, a sacrificial system of piping sliced down the middle and clipped to the hull-to-deck seam around the hull perimeter. Can someone tell me a good source for a proper rub rail? Rubberized with enough inside recess (about 1/4") to fit along the hull/deck seam? TIA for any and all help! I love this boat!

[TedStrat]

Can't tell you anything about placement location on the 19 but want to menti0n its critical, if you use a 2 part epoxy, to not still too fast and cause bubbles. You want a smooth, bubble free media. I put one in a power boat years ago and it worked fine. 

[Tom L.]

I had a Sun Cat and I installed the very sounder you are considering. I placed the transducer inside the hull. It was on the center line about 12" in front of the keel. It can be on either side of the Center line but as close to horizontal as possible so it would have to be closer to midships if you decide to mount the transducer off center.
Sand the area to remove all interior paint in the place you chose to glue in the transducer. To make sure the area is good you can put the transducer in a plastic bag filled with water and place it in the location. Of course the boat would need to be in the water. But you can test the location before you glue the transducer in place. I used silicone, much easier to remove if you find it needs replacing or relocated. Use a considerable amount and make sure you don't have any air bubbles in the silicone. I made a small circular dam a little bigger than the transducer using window caulk to keep the silicone from running. Worked very good.

I would contact Com-Pac for the rub rail. They can supply you with the factory original rail.

Tom L.

[philb Junkie19]

Easy to understand why you love the boat. I think it's an incredibly good design.  On my CP19 a previous owner placed the transducer in the small inside locker under the port side of the V berth.  It's very close to the inside wall and looks to be siliconed to the boats bottom.  Originally it set inside a cut down plastic milk carton with enough of its bottom cut out to fit around the transducer and also fastened on with silicone.  This was meant to be filled with water to improve performance.  I did use it this way until the plastic fell apart and I found the transducer worked without the water.

[Andy Knoczek]

Awesome! Thanks everyone! The Com Pac site has a pdf with all kind of parts available including the rub rail! And thanks for the x-ducer placement suggestions. I was figuring under the V berth just forward the keel, but wanted to see if that will be ok. I will try the bag of water trick. Thanks again!

[Razor]

The transducer on my CP 19 is installed to the hull approximately 6-8" in front of the compression post. I am assuming the previous owner cut a 3-4 inch hole in the vee berth deck, removed enough insulation to get down to the fiberglass hull, cleaned the area good and installed it there. It was not working when I purchased the boat several years ago so I replaced it with the hawkeye and it works just fine there.

Terry

[Andy Knoczek]

Thanks Terry, it looks like that will be the best spot for me as well. My V berth has hatches that gives large open access to the FG bottom. Also, has anyone replaced the rub rail that might answer this: Is it only fitted over the hull-deck seam and screwed to the trim on the bow and transom, or is it adhered along the length in any way? As I have now, the PVC sliced pipe was covering a bunch of slathered on silicone caulking over the joint. I wonder if I remove that mess, and install the factory rub rail using 3M 4200 to adhere it - or is that unnecessary? THX !!

[Tom L.]

Andy, I would call the factory and ask the method they use to attach the rail. Matt is in charge of parts and is very knowledgeable. If he doesn't know he can literally walk out in the shop and ask. Com Pac is a small company with easy access and they will help the owners. It's just plain good business which they adhere to.

Tom L.

[Andy Knoczek]

Awesome! Thanks Tom, I will call them this week.

[Damsel19]

I am probably in the minority here. But I favor a traditional through hull ducer. Having installed many, I have never seen one fail or leak. (35 years in boat repair) They are stronger than the hull.  There is about a 25% performance loss shooting through the hull.  Modern flush ducers with out a fairing block have negligible drag. The hull prep to glue in a shoot through ducer is generally more work.  I think the little flat spot in front of the keel would do nicely.