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Genoa rigging-Need advice

Started by lweisman, June 15, 2016, 11:35:58 AM

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lweisman

C-16 Newbie here.  I tried to raise the Genoa (that came with the '81 C-16) for the first time yesterday.  The pinch clamps for the jib sheets are set where the cockpit meets the cabin, a aft of the sidestays.  This worked great with the jib, but the genoa's clew itself came past these pinch clamps.  Any advice on how to set up for the Genoa, where to mount pinch clamps on the gunwales or what rigging is best?  One friend said that I should use a pulley between the jib sheet and the pinch clamps, rather than running the jib sheet directly into it.  It's a good sized Genoa but I can't say what percentage overlap from the mast. ( I did try to search this site but came up empty for this question.)
Thanks, Lee
Lee
Lake Champlain, VT

Salty19

Well, I helped you with your last question, so why not continue the trend.

Pinch clamp?  Do you mean the cam cleats?

In the end, you probably want the genoa sheets need to be mounted further aft to obtain the correct sheet angle.  You want the sheet to point in the middle of the luff, and the coaming mounted cam cleats likely will not allow for that to happen. 

Hence the genoa track.  I had purchased the Ronstan 7/8" "C" track and mounted it on top of teak side railings that were elevated a bit, then purchased the special track car with cam cleat from Com-pac (hard to find the right part but they have them).  Others screwed the same track into the side coaming after bending them to match the curve. I bent mine just a little but didn't need to fully match the curve due to the teak side rails being wide enough to accommodate them.   Hutchins sells the tracks too, but they are only 18" long which didn't give me the adjustability I felt was needed.  Anyway, they worked nicely on the 155% genoa we were using.




"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

lweisman

Those teak side railings are really sweet!  Seems a shame somehow to put the track on top of them. but obviously quite functional.  If I understand, you recommend a genoa track mounted on the outerside of the coaming, not on top of it.  I suppose a track makes more sense than a second set of cam cleats set further aft.  I just didn't want to go 'overboard' with accessories and gadgets.  Fully extended my genoa is about a 150% (if that means that when fully extended half of it reaches aft of the mast).  Sorry for my terminology limitations, I'm learning.
Lee
Lee
Lake Champlain, VT

Salty19

Mount the tracks on top of the side coamings, in the same orientation as my pics show. If you scroll back in the CP16 section (use the search tool) you'll see pics of the original Genoa track factory installation.  Look at the angle of the cam cleats in my pic. If they were facing down the sheet would not never clear off.

The tracks are nice if you ever use a roller furler since the sheet angle changes as you roll the sail in or out.  Note the black "bullseye" sheet lead on the cam cleats. You need those otherwise the sheet will just snap itself right out of the cam cleat.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

carry-on

The sheets for your genoa go outboard of the shrouds. you can secure the sheet to the mooring cleat at the port or starboard quarter and use a line "barber hauler" or person to adjust the sheet angle. You might try this arrangement for a few light wind sails before taking on the track project. 
The tracks on the coaming are helpful, give a wide range of sheet angles and simplify tacking if you sail alone, but I did not enjoy drilling all the holes in the coaming. Salty's arrangement is top notch, but was beyond my skill set.
The five foot tracks came from Annapolis Performance Sailing. About $120 for two with track ends and shipping.
The cars, series 19 C-Track Slide, are Ronstan RC81942 from Ultimate Passage. About $70 each with shipping. These prices are 12 to 15 months old. The screws are #8 stainless. So the project is about $275, a little more than the cost of a new genoa.
You may want a helper to install the tracks. The track is straight and does not conform easily to the coaming curve.

$UM FUN TOO

CP-16 Hull# 2886

Duckie

I second Carry-on's idea.  Use the aft mooring cleat to secure the sheet, or some other way to cleat the sheet that will allow easy release, and mount a block on the end of a line run through another block somewhere around the chainplate as a barber hauler to run the sheet through.  Small Craft Advisor just ran an article a few issues ago about how to rig one with good illustrations.  If you rig your sheets that way, it won't cost you an arm and a leg and it will give you the same effect as a track.  If you put twenty bucks into it you probably paid too much.  Maybe you don't stay with that set up, but it will get you going with your big genoa. 

Al

lweisman

Thank guys, really helpful advice, pro-track and con.  (Just when I think I'm learning the terminology, up pop's 'barber hauler'.  Do I also need a 'twing'?)

We did our first high wind sail on Lake Champlain today.  16kts gusting to 20.  The C-16 did great but the chop was too much (wet crew) so a couple tacks and back home.  Heading out in gusty conditions we made a number of seriously dumb mistakes, good to get those out of the way.   Makes way for more less stupid errors. 

My big problem is figuring out where to attach the mainsheet traveler block to the boom because the fixed blocks were set forward, either side of the cabin with no boom attachment when I bought it.  I've tried two positions on the boom (in line with the blocks, and 12" further aft, but neither can really pull the boom close to midline.  It's a topic I raised here elsewhere but apparently not a common set-up.  Off-topic for this thread I realize.
Fair winds,
Lee
Lee
Lake Champlain, VT