C19 deck/hull repair questions

[jim1440]

I've just begun my first big project on my "new" 1989 C19. I read all of the various posts on the Hull/Deck repairs that have been done over the past couple years and thought I had my strategy down .. take off the rub rail, miter out a 1/8" slot, refill with West System epoxy and put back the rub rail .. until I opened up the can of worms. I still think that is my primary approach, but I have a few questions.

When I took of the rub rail the joint was covered with continuous duct tape. In good condition at some points and others not.



Under the duct tape I found stretches of "clear" joint, some with obvious hairline gaps and others in pretty good apparent condition.



I also found some long stretches (2-4 ft) that are covered with 5200? Or some other sealant? There are also some short areas that are "spot" covered with the sealant.





I found a couple bolt through areas that looked a bit suspect. Need to be reseated/sealed?



So, my questions are:
1)   Was this the factory work or had the previous owner worked on this at some point?
2)   Should I mess with the connection bolts (take out and reseal .. at least the ones that look more suspect)?
3)   Should I remove all of the "sealant" on the outside edge and make the 1/8" slot for epoxy all around? Or just focus on the non-sealed parts?

I also read of the challenges of putting the rub rail back on. Hopefully we'll get some warm Missouri February days that I can use some solar power to warm them up before trying to put them back on.

Thanks,
Jim

[marc]

My hull deck-joint did not have tape over it but it was quite messy. Here's what I did.
I used a dremel to clean off all the surfaces and cut out any deteriorated caulk sandwiched in the seam. When I was done doing that, the hull/deck joint looked like this:




I then filled all the voids I had cleaned out with 5200 and smeared a skim coat of 5200 along the entire seam. I think epoxy would be too brittle an application here. The strength is provided by any adhesive in the joint and the fasteners which on my boat were about 4 inches apart (If I remember correctly.) I checked that all the nuts were tight and replaced any nuts/bolts that were stripped or otherwise defective. Each replaced bolt needed to be trimmed so it would not interfere with the re-installation of the rub rail. (I used a dremel cut-off wheel to do this. Also used a cut-off wheel to clean the joint.) I put a dab of 5200 on the ends of all the bolts to make sure the nuts couldn't back off again. The rub rail was plenty soft by just letting it get full sun on my blacktop driveway for an hour or so.
Not a hard job, just need to be patient. Good luck.
Marc

[jim1440]

Marc,

Thanks ... that definitely would be easier than using epoxy. I could probably on use new 5200 on the areas that look like they need it. I've read about both approaches on this forum with about a 50-50 mix! I'd even thought at one point of doing epoxy first, then a 5200 covering.

Sounds like there is no need to redo all of the fasteners, so I will definitely reduce scope to just those that appear in need.

Jim

[Craig Weis]

skip.

[jim1440]

To complete the saga of the rub rail project ... I called Gerry at Compac and his recommendation was to clean the deck-hull joint well then seal it with 5200. That is what they did during construction. So here is the rail after applying the sealant.



Then came the next problem .. putting the rail back on. It turned out that the stern rail shrunk by about an inch and the side rails both shrunk by about 3 inches. I tried heating the shorter stern rail in hot water, but to no avail. Then one of my sons came through and suggested stretching it using racheting straps. I rigged a couple attachment jibs (using hinge straps) and waited for a sunny 70 degree day. I'd put them in the stretcher in the morning, then when I got home put a bit extra tension for an hour or so and volia ... I've got rub rails that are 2-4 inches longer than needed. The key (at least in 70 degree weather) is that as soon as you take off the "stretcher" you have about 10 minutes or less until it will shrink 3-5 inches! So it is kind of a pit stop operation.



Here is a detailed picture of the "attachment jig"



Now on to the next project!

Jim

[Craig Weis]

Looks like way too much 3-M fifty two hundred slow set sealant was used.
 
As it cures, and rivets are squeezed or the bolts, washers, and nuts, are used to close the joint,  the 'squish-out' has to continually be wiped away with a few rolls of paper towels for the next 45 or so minutes.
A little dab will do ya. And that's just for the joint.
When done there will be zero sealant between the tape and joint.

When cured in a couple of days, the joint is tapped with two sided sticky tape and the protective covering on the sticky side is peeled back as the anchored rub rail at one end [bow or stern] is installed [I'd say pounded on with a rubber hammer] inch by inch and pulled.
If one cares to vice grip the rub rail to the pulled end and pull that tight with some sort of block and tackle have at it.

As with any 'stickem' job cleanliness is paramount.

Watching 7 inches of blizzard fall until tonight at 9 o'clock tonight. Bummer.

skip.