Attwood scupper valves

[Duckie]

I've got my 16/3 in my boat shop for the rest of the winter with a laundry list of upgrades and repairs.  Chief among them  is finally stopping the leaking in the stern.  I have narrowed it down to two biggies, the deck plates and the scuppers.  Right now I am playing with the scuppers.  I took off the attwood scupper valves, and found that after 28 years the plastic ring that holds the whole thing on the boat has deteriorated very badly.  The old plastic won't hold the valve/gasket tight to the transom.  It is also warped out of shape so the screws can't hold it tight.  The rubber flapper is fine though.  There is no help for it.  I had to order new ones.  As boaty bits go, they aren't that expensive.  I'm not sure if new ones will do the trick, but those ruined old ones sure aren't doing me any favors.

The other side of the pipe is probably the real culprit.  One of the PO's packed the joint between the pipe and the hull with silicone  bathroom caulk.  I have never known that stuff to work on a boat.  It seems to always let go of one surface or the other letting water seep through.  I'm going to have to clean that joint to within an inch of MY life before I can re-seal it.  All of this times three.  

I have already refinished the bright work by taking it all off the boat, sanding off the old rotten wood or finish and varnishing it all three coats brushed on, one coat sprayed.  Damn, that teak looks good.  I also made a mosquito screen that folds in two for the companion way.  I made it out of multiple layers of luan and light weight netting.  I'll be able to store it out of the way and it should keep all the bugs at bay.  I also designed and built a thunder box that fits beautifully under the hatch.  It is a custom fit for the 16 and uses the plastic bag, saw dust method.  I checked it out and even a big stiff guy like me can use it in the cabin.  Thank Gawd.

The list goes on and on, but I have until at least mid May, so I should be able to get most all of it done.  Winters in the boat shop, almost as good as summers on the water.

Al

[ketch22]

I noticed the same scupper valve deterioration in our '87 16/3, but haven't seen any water leaking in from that point. I've been wondering whether it's better to leave it be (and not be at risk of finding other problems) or to just go ahead and replace it.  Did you have any luck with this project?

[Duckie]

My dear ole departed dad who was a life long mechanic told me " if it ain't broke, don't fix it."  Words to live by that I still cling to today.  When I replaced my valves, I found some faults in the seals between the plastic pipe and the transom.  Also, the pipe wasn't cut flush with the transom which made the valve fit not so good.  I filed down the pipe ends and re-bedded the joint, then put the new valve on.  I have yet to test the water tight integrity  of the repair, but I suspect that it should be good.  Right now I am more concerned about the silicon caulk that one of the PO's put on the joint in the cockpit.  That stuff never lasts very long before it lets go and allows water to seep behind it.  I am also concerned with the bedding of the deck plates in the stern.  Between the scuppers and the deck plates I think I have narrowed down the possible leak sites that need attention.  It is real annoying to have to sponge out the stern of the boat every time it rains. 

Al

[Craig Weis]

Duckie, " One of the PO's packed the joint between the pipe and the hull with silicone  bathroom caulk "

Above referenced stuff guarantees a leak. The factory uses ...

I'd suggest 3-M 5200 Slo Set in white.

Removing something bedded in with Slo Set? Use a heat gun to warm it up first.
Bare in mind that 160 deg. F. is all that the human body can touch for a short time ... think a black car's roof in full California sun at the beach.
That temperature is by no means the upper limit.

Because it is SLOW SET it will run for 40 or so minutes ... keep wiping it up with a paper towel. A FAST SET is made but in my view fast set is junque.

Side Bar: When I removed my rudder casting from the transom for hammer tone grey powder coating, those four 1/4 inch bolts holding the casting on required heating and beating with my rubber hammer to loosen things up. Why?  Once it was off only a 3/4 inch flattened out circle of 3-M 5200 Slo Set was the only thing holding the casting on to the transom.
I a believer [but not a Monkey's fan]. 

skip.