Main sheet cam cleat setup

[rbh1515]

I'm not real happy with my main sheet cam cleat setup on my HDC.  The block and cam are not set up very high and continually rub on the fiberglass.  See pic.



Does this also happen on HC's?  

Rob

[capt_nemo]

Happened on my NEW 2010 Sun Cat (recently sold).

One of the very first things I did was to add strong stainless springs under the blocks to hold them up and prevent them from banging on the fiberglass.

If the springs I see in the photo are not working, consider getting stronger replacements.

An additional alternative would be to place a small woven (nautical) textile mat or piece of sacrificial thin wood, starboard, or foam rubber underneath to protect the glass. Might not look as pretty but FUNCTION is more important than FORM in this case!

If it is strictly the height, consider adding a wood or starboard block under the whole unit to raise it up!

capt_nemo

[rbh1515]

Capt,
My first thought was a stronger spring.  I went to the local WM, and didn't find one, and am having a hard time finding one online.  Do you know of a good source?
Rob

[blighhigh]

Try adding a  horizontal stainless steel  support rod between  the upright poles supporting the booms gallow (if you have one)..  Then move the cam cleats to the poles using 1 and 1/8 rail clamps and long 3/16 d shackles to attach to the  cam cleats..  I have been using this system for about a year now without problems.  The existing eye straps on the cockpit coming make a good attachment point for the bimini straps.

[rbh1515]

blighhigh,
Interesting idea...got a picture of that?
Rob

[Craig]

On my former Suncat I Made a pad from self-stick  Treadmaster Step Pads. They have a diamond pattern that is fairly attractive. Did a cutout for the eyepad and wrapped the pad over the coaming. Being a rubber compound they eliminated any banging and clatter as well as protecting the FG. The extra pieces were put on the rear deck where they gave a non-slip surface for my hand when leaning over the transom.

[capt_nemo]

Sorry, no better source for stainless springs. However, you can forcibly elongate them a bit to provide a stronger lift pressure on the supported block.

capt_nemo

[Bob23]

   I found ones that were quite strong at the local WM store in Brick, NJ- a big one. Used em when I replaced the stand up blocks on my genoa track. On the original ones, the side plates spread allowing the line to get pinched resulting in a jammed headsail sheet. Not fun in high winds at all.
   On my 1985 23/2, I have teak winch pads under the main sheet blocks/cleats. So the cam cleat rubs on the wood and not the glass meaning I need to varnish it.

[rbh1515]

OK, I found a solution that should work well:



Just bought two pulpit anchors at WM, CAT# 29-501.  Attached the cam cleat setup with all the existing hardware to the pulpit anchors.  I have them a bit high right now.  I'll see how they work, and probably lower them a few inches.
Rob

[capt_nemo]

Way to go Rob.

Necessity is the mother of invention!

capt_nemo