Tohatsu Pro-Sail 6hp flush question....and friction lock for steering....

[Vectordirector]

Another disadvantage to the motor well is losing the ability to turn the motor for extra steering bite.  I suppose it depends on the fit of the motor in the well but most aren't set up to do this.  I can spin my Eclipse around pretty tight if I turn the motor and the tiller at the same time.  It is a huge difference over just using the rudder.  If you need it, and I do in the canal, it is a must.  Much easier than making a three point turn.  There is a reason that design is no longer used.  Food for thought.  

Love the Torqueedos if they have enough power for one's sailing conditions and use.  If my motor goes, I'll seriously look at buying one.  Plenty of sun down here to keep it charged.  There is a beautiful couple of year old Tartan 26 daysailor down here for sale with a Torqueedo.  I've only seen it out a couple times.  $90K+ new, asking $80ish for it.  It is mounted on the stern, barely visible.  Out of my price range, but one of the prettiest boats I've ever seen.  Oh, and it is fast, if anyone was wondering.  In under 8 knots of wind, he was staying with the Corsair 24.  Wind picked up and we were gone, baby, gone.  Nothing like the feel of a multihull accelerating.  Corsair feels like a big, more stable, Hobie 18.    Probably off topic, but we need some activity on this forum.  

Vectordirector

[Shawn]

" I think I would prefer an external mount with spring assist so I can get the entire motor out of the water when I'm sailing or docked."

For the DIYer I really like some of the outboard sliding rail mounts people have come up with. With the right setup you raise/lower the outboard with a line in the cockpit so no need to hang out over the stern. That would be very slick with an electric start outboard and remote controls.

For example:
http://navitrol.com/OutboardMotor.htm
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/65999-diy-sliding-outboard-mount.html

Shawn

[Aldebaran_III]

I've had a Tohatsu 6 ultra long on my Horizon cat for a couple of years now. To start with I tried all kinds of things to lock the motor. Cranking the adjuster tight, lines to the rear mooring cleats etc.
Eventually I fell into a technique from pure laziness that seems to work.
When I start motoring I steer only with the motor tiller and increase the power gradually. I leave the main tiller free and steer with the motor so that the flow of water past the rudder brings the main tiller central. When I'm at the desired speed I move back to steering with the main tiller. The constant thrust of the motor seems to lock the motor in its mount and it never moves, not even if I make quite sharp turns with the main tiller.
When I slow down to come into a dock, the thrust comes off the motor mount, and at lumpy tick over speed the motor will start to turn with the vibration. However, at this point it doesn't really matter because I'm quite likely back on the motor tiller for vectored thrust which is always so useful when maneuvering at very low speeds.
Works for me, your mileage may vary.
Cheers,
Derek

[mayrel]

I finally re-read the motor owners manual to reacquaint myself with all the procedures.  I was making one mistake; the motor needs to be in forward gear position to raise.  I do have a three position adjustable motor mount, and it works fine.  However, it's a bit close to the stern when raised, so I'm thinking of adding a spacer between the mount and hull, 3/4" would make a difference.  Of course, I no longer have a trailer, and removing/installing the mount at the dock isn't appealing, but I can work around that.  The other consideration is, my motor has a 25" shaft.  I can get the motor tilted and out of the water, but it's not easy working around the flag staff, stern pulpit and main sheet.  It would be really convenient to have a motor mount that simple went up and down; I'm going to research this, maybe there is one out there?  My main objective is to simplify how things work.  I like the longer shaft for pushing through chop as the boat does hobby horse, so I'm not displeased.  I could have gone with the 20" shaft and been fine too; too late now.
But on the turn buckle to keep the motor straight, this should be fairly easy to determine location to mount on the boat and motor, sort of like having a screen door latch setup...I'll fool around with this soon...enjoying the sailing at the moment...John

[mayrel]

I wanted to report that I have solved the friction lock issue and shaft length issue I have been experiencing.  One, I am having my shaft length converted from 25" to 20" and I will soon install a MarineTech auxiliary steering kit linking the motor to the tiller/rudder.  Although the shaft conversion is a bit costly, the steering link system is about $65 from West marine.  Fitting it to the rudder and motor may require an additional bracket and/or fabricating something, but otherwise should be a good investment in time and money.  Suffice it to say, I'm learning...