Hatchway cover

[sbgolden]

hi- just wondering if anyone has a suggestions regarding the hatchway cover on the HC. Ours seems to be grinding along the fibreglass when we slide it open and closed. Seems as if there is something missing which would prevent the hatch from scraping along the deck. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Shira
Vancouver, BC

[rbh1515]

I'll take a look at my boat.  Its brand new and slides pretty easily.  If it is grinding, there is some material you can install (I think it is a tape with an adhesive side, and a slippery side--had it on my last boat).
Rob

[Salty19]

Could just be a bunch of grit in there building up.  Maybe remove the slides and clean up the area and inspect for any glass burrs?
Then reinstall and lube with Harken McLube.

[rbh1515]

Found this at APS:  Japanese Glide Tape
http://www.apsltd.com/c-4491-low-frictiontapes.aspx
I'm sure there is other stuff that works.
Rob

[sbgolden]

Hi- The hatch boards no longer fit properly into the hatchway as the hatch cover does not slide over the boards. We've had to make a smaller lower hatch board so the hatch slides across so we can lock up the boat. Is there some sort of runner or glide that the hatch edges sits on? (kind of like a closet sliding door?)  The teak trim just seems to hold the hatch down on the deck, but doesn't hold it up off the deck and prevent it from scraping off the fibreglass. I am not sure how to remove the hatch to clean it. The problem seems worse than a little dirt.

On another note, for people with inboard yanmars, do you close the seacock when you are out sailing or just leave it open? We are not sure when it needs to be closed (just at the dock, just when you're away for long periods of time?)

Finally, a rigging question- do other people use wire or tape to secure the turnbuckles on the stays, or do you just have the cotter pins do that?

thanks!! Sorry for all the newbie questions...
shira

[Craig]

Re the hatch issue....don't have it! Re the the seacock..... I leave mine open. On my boat the top of the sea cock is above the waterline. I do not close it unless I am going away from the boat for an extended period. Your boat may be different. I have removed the hose on the seacock and no water came in while I was clearing a clog at the dock. There is more of a risk leaving it closed and forgetting to open it. I don't use tape on the turnbuckles since it can trap water and increase the chance of corrosion.

[rbh1515]

On my boat, if you slide the companionway hatch to close it, it runs into the hatch boards--then you just lift the hatch up slightly over the boards.  Can you not do this?
I don't have any thru hulls on my boat since I have an outboard, but I had thru hulls on previous boats.  You definitely should close any thru hull that is below the waterline when you leave the boat.  It is not necessary to close the thru hulls when you are sailing.  But, you should have a set if emergency plugs on board, so that if a thru hull fails while you are out you can plug it.
Here is my opinion on turnbuckles:  buy two sets of Wrap Pins:
http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_14
I think I bought the 5/16 size, $12.50 per pair.  Available at West Marine.  You will never go back to regular cotter pins.  They are a minor extravagance.
Rob

[Craig]

Neat device! I am off to West Marine. I also have to lift the hatch slightly to clear the hatchboards. I leave the lock on the hasp eye as a handle to lift the hatch. The fit is by design to help keep water out.

[rbh1515]

Wrap pins on my boat:

[rbh1515]

Just checked the sliding hatch, and it fiberglass against fiberglass.  Glad you brought this up.  I'm going to install some type of glide tape.      Rob

[Tom L.]

Nearly all of the boats are built with the main hatch of fiberglass and they slide fiberglass on fiberglass. Dirt and grime in the track is what makes them very sticky. Flush out the track area regularly and spray with McLube or Boeshield, problem solved. Save your money for... some go-faster gizmo. The track slides can actually be too slippery when you first spray on a lube as the hatch will slide around as you walk on it to furl sails or whatever.

Tom L.

[rbh1515]

The hatch on my Cat 28 had a tape that the hatch slid on.  It was nut super slippery....the hatch would not randomly slide around.
Rob

[rbh1515]

Just ordered some Teflon tape from Catalina direct:
https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1312/sliding-hatch-teflon-tape.cfm
That's what they had on my Cat 28
Rob

[Salty19]

I like those wrap pins too.  I use 'em for the backstay on the CP19.  That is the only fitting I need I need to adjust now that the rigging is "set".

Buying another set for the turnbuckle on my new adjustable tiller-to-outboard steering link (see DIY area for details if interested).

Back to the topic, I still think there is just crud in there.  It doesn't take too many ground leaves and deck flotsam to cause some grief and scratching.

I'm not sure how the Horizon Cat hatchway teak comes off, but I'm sure someone will chime in to help. You might try to get in there from above and below with a rag and some cleaning spray to see if that helps in the interim.

I put a 1/8" Amsteel lanyard on the hasp ring to help with sliding it and to support holding the companionway step up high with a line and snap hook to use the port potty..again CP19 not sure if that applies to the HC. Of course if your lock fill the hasp ring than the lanyard wouldn't fit.

[cdflan]

Had the same problem and originally tried several lubricands from oily to waxy without success.  Talked with Hutchins and they said clean and dry was the best answer.  Removed all the old residue with solvent on rag tucked around the edges under the teak and it now slide "relatively" freely.  Noticed that after getting the hatchway wet or in high humidity that it drags somewhat more.  Think that the hatch is a bit too wide or the teak rails just a bit narrow.  Another observation - sighting along the teak rail I see a slight belly inwards in the center. Also haven't figured out how to easily get the hatch out of the rails (without removing them) so haven't gone further.  Perhaps a strip of sandpaper wrapped around the edge and slid back and forth would be worth trying.