Repairing tiller handle

[Geoff]

I need to repair my tiller handle where it meets the rudder plate (or whatever the proper nautical term is for the metal plate that goes between the rudder and the tiller).

As it is now, the tiller handle is rotted.

1. Fill it flush and then glue a space onto either the metal rudder plate or onto end of tiller handle. This would, in theory, allow reuse of the existing bolt holes in tiller shaft.
2. Cut it and butt it against the metal plate. Will require drilling new holes and filling old bolt holes with epoxy.

I'm leaning toward option number 2 (option #1 seemed to have been done some years ago by prior owner and it did not work well long term).

Should there be some sort of pad between the tiller handle and the metal plate? It would seem like varnished wood pressing on a metal plate means varnish is gone quickly and you're then back to a situation where moisture can penetrate.

How does/did Compac originally design this?

-Geoff

As it sits today:


As I imagine it should look?


The rudder plate where it would meet tiller handle (note small protrusion; that is metal and seems to have been shaped there by production of this plate)


Rotted, crumbled area at end of my tiller handle


Another view of same:

[Duckie]

It might not be all that bad.  It looks like the end grain got ya .  If it wasn't sealed well enough, water got sucked up by the end grain and rotted its way forward.  Try sawing off the end a little at a time until you hit good wood.  If it isn't too far up the stick you could just go with a shorter tiller.  If that turns out to be  the case, plug the original bolt holes with dowels and water proof glue then drill new ones to fit.  Make sure to seal the end grain real well and keep an eye on it.

If the rot goes too far forward you could do a lap joint with a new piece.  Join the lap with dowels and epoxy and you should never have to mess with it again.  Neither of these options is very tough to do.  It is important to keep the structural integrity of the steering mechanism solid as I have learned through bitter experience.  But this doesn't look like it is that far gone.

Al 

[Bob23]

Duckie is right. However, if the rot goes further up the tiller, consider replacing it. In an extreme weather situation, the last thing you want to think about is "Is this thing gonna break?" And the situation will come, believe me. A new one is cheap insurance.
Bob23

[skip1930]

Cut and laminate and glue another one back together. Is this salt damage?

skip.

[Craig]

Good comment re using dowels to fill holes. Much stronger than filling holes with epoxy. Seal end grain with a low viscosity epoxy like Git Rot.

[brackish]

Duckie is right. However, if the rot goes further up the tiller, consider replacing it. In an extreme weather situation, the last thing you want to think about is "Is this thing gonna break?" And the situation will come, believe me. A new one is cheap insurance.
Bob23

As one who has had a tiller snap off in his hand I say this is sound advice.  And be careful with dowels, if the grain is oriented where it is cross grain to the laminates, it could be problematic.  Probably subject to rather severe temperature and humidity changes seasonally, and a cross grain glue up will often give up or lead to cracks in other areas.  People often don't realise the difference in lateral grain growth compared to longitudinal grain growth.

[jcatkeson]

I know of two c23 owners who simply replaced the tiller with a new oak handle from wheelbarrow. Cut to length stained and varnished and the square cross section fit perfectly. The idea was that delamination would never be problematic and  there would be no problem with moisture seeping between laminates at the rudder head. Required no tools other than a drill set and saw.

Both appear to be from the school of what works, works.

[HideAway]

Bob23 is right -- I had mine delaminate during very rough weather at night no less.   It was not a quality experience.   The tiller twisted like my motorcycle accelerator.  We made it to our anchorage ok.  In this case there was no debate- a new one was needed.  I attached a brass plate to the bottom of the tiller where it contacts the rudder - works fine.  M 

[wes]

Defender.com has  new Rudder Craft tillers in a variety of shapes and sizes, varnished, for $90 to $120. Sounds like a good value for the most important piece of safety equipment on the boat!

Wes

[Duckie]

I made the tiller on my weekender out of a shovel handle.  Love that white ash.  As I indicated in my last post, I have experienced steering failure before, so I am inclined to go extra strong.  In fact, I went sailing yesterday in my sailing canoe and busted the gudgeons on the rudder.  I don't think that it would be a mistake to order a new tiller from Hutchins.  But, if you want to go sailing in the mean time, and you can find solid wood beyond the rot, The repairs I mentioned will work.  Make sure to seal any end grain on any wooden part of your boat and keep an eye on it. As to the dowels, if you don't fit them real tight, epoxy will seal them along the length, and sealing the ends will keep them in good shape until the rest of the tiller needs to be replaced.  It is a standard of wood working that dowels never should fit tight for the reasons mentioned above, as well as the idea that you need to leave some space for the glue or you will starve the joint for glue.  I'm kind of glad that you brought this problem to the forum because I haven't checked my tiller yet and maybe I am in the same boat so to speak.  I'm going to find out today.

Al

[Geoff]

Good tips. I think I will repair this one to get me sailing again and then order a more proper one and then stash this one under the settee berths.
S/V Zapatillo is a 1978 ComPac 23, so if it received 37 years of faithful service from the rudder and tiller, I'm impressed.

S/V Hideaway: Great idea about putting a brass plate on the end of handle where it beats against the aluminum rudder plate. How did you shape and affix that? Can you post photos?

Cheers,
Geoff