Bright work

[brackish]

Just got back from Kailani. Teak came out very well with Cetol. Good to go for several months then I will scrub with Spray Nine and recoat when teak is dry. 3m green pads work well to get rid of  "fuzzies" and smooth the teak. Easy clean-up with alchohol and paper towels.

Cetol? thought you were using Semco.

If Semco, do you even bother to mask?

[Schumway]

Capt Nemo,
Your teak looks great! But, what is the quote on the cabin bulkhead door?
Fred

[HeaveToo]

Okay Brackish, you caught me.  I did take off the companionway cover and winch covers often.  The static wood that had nothing around them I rarely took them off.  I had no trouble grabbing handholds with my covers over them.  I never made one for the bowsprit on the Catalina 30.  I simply put a coat of cetol on it every year.

Wood looks great on a boat.  It works great.  It is a wonderful thing, until you have to refinish it.  Then it is a pain in the Keester!

I am thinking that I want to make a cover that covers the entire boat for off season or when it is on the trailer eventually.  That would save a lot of weathering of stuff.

I also have the teak cockpit floor grate.  I probably need to give that some attention soon.  Ugh.  I think that I will attack with a heat gun and sand it lightly at first to see if that helps and re-finish with cetol.

[Craig]

OOPS! Had Cetol on the brain from previous post.Too much sun, salt air(and ADD)! LOL Fixed now. Love the edit feature here! By the way plain water clean-up for brushes containers, etc. Alcohol for spills/runs. Even old dry spots come off with alcohol. I don't use any masking. I keep a wad of paper towels soaked with alcohol with me and clean up as I go. Not much of a problem since Semco tends to soak in rather than run unless you over-wet the brush. I use Semco on my teak floorboards because it is easy to maintain and not slippery when wet.

[BruceW]

I wonder if Semco would be good on cabin sole? I am a fan of Semco for the teak, although with current boat, it's all just grey (or is that gray?). My cabin has worn spots, etc, and needs something, but I want to do what is good and easy.

[Craig]

What is your cabin sole made of and how is it finished now? Semco might or not be appropriate depending on those two parameters.

[BruceW]

I'm sure that's a valid question. I have no idea; it appears to be that teak and holly plywood, with the finish worn off over the years.  No idea how I'd ever even come up with the answer.

Maybe once I do the external teak and have some Semco on hand anyway,  I'll try some in the really worn places, see what happens. I don' t need shiny.

[Craig]

If your teak and holly sole has a hard finish(I would suspect it does), you would have to remove it since Semco must be applied to bare wood. IMHO you might be better off to sand and refinish with a hard coat like varnish. Not sure as to the suitability of Cetol for a floor.

[capt_nemo]

Craig & Shumway,

Craig - I used Cetol on my tiny teak and holly sole in my Sun Cat then proceeded to cover it up to protect it with a nice carpet remnant. The carpet feels better on my bare feet and provides traction.

Years ago, after sanding a large trawler aft cockpit floor of teak and black caulk down to bare wood I applied 4 coats of Regular Cetol. It received a lot of use while we lived aboard and held up quite well indeed. Maintenance coats were applied every few years.

Shumway - The quote on the forward bulkhead door of my Sun Cat is my absolute favorite because of its profound meaning. Photo provided below.

capt_nemo

[Shawn]

Great quote! Going to have to have that made into a brass plaque.



Shawn

[capt_nemo]

Shawn,

Your plaque is not an accurate quote.

It should read "... , but IN the other troubles of life WHICH MAY BE EVEN MORE DISTURBING, it is a safe retreat".

CORRECTIONS ARE IN CAPS.

capt_nemo

[Gerry]

No varnish...thank you
Cetrel is the way to go.

[Craig]

Actually, polyurethane "varnish" not exposed to direct UV is very durable. Think basketball courts,hardwood flooring,etc. Resists water(the reason modern furniture rarely gets water rings)well. One of the reasons varnish on teak is problematic is the very reason it is so weather resistant.......it is loaded with lots of natural oils which eventually work their way back up to the surface. This compromises the coating-to-wood bond and hence blisters,peeling and flaking. Interior teak is less of a problem since it is not subjected to being baked in direct sunlight which exacerbates the oil migration problem as well as the UV degradation process.

[cw021382]

There is a place on stockton lake that is hydro dipping teak.  They sand then dip using a teak print.  Then they clear coat using automotive clear.  Then they wax.  The resulting product looks very good and just needs a coat of wax once a year.  It also dosen't need to be covered.  They have been doing it for a few years and it works great.  I am thinking about doing it.  Anyone else ever heard of this?

-Chris