Wiring schematic for CP 23 I

[skyshadd]

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of restoring CP 23 # 53, and I am about to tackle the job of rewiring the electrical system.
Does anyone have the original schematic for a 23/I?
My boat currently has additional equipment wired in: solar panel, VHF, stereo/cd, and 2 DC plugs, and I would like these components to remain.
I have Don Casey's book as a reference and have learned a lot from it, but I'm having trouble pulling the trigger, and would like a printed guide.
I sail my boat often, and have taken some extended cruising trips ( mostly 3-4 days ) and would like to go for longer trips, but have no faith in my electrical system.
I am plagued by Nav light, charging, and faults in the system. It's time to do it RIGHT!
.....any help or advise will be greatly appreciated.

Skyshadd,

p.s.
I got to meet Mr. Hutchins at the St. Pete boat show last week, they had a nice display at the entrance to the show.
Nice Guy!
 

[brackish]

I have the wiring diagram that came in the manual for my 23IV.  The manual is titled ComPac 23 and is probably the same diagram that was in the manual from the very beginning.  I can scan it and email it to you, however I don't think it will be much help.  It does not even come close to being accurate for my boat as it was originally delivered to the dealer or as it was delivered from there to the original owner.

My advice, read the Casey book, dive in and redo it all.  You can get a lot of advice on this forum from people who have already done this.  If you plan to add AC the Casey book is not up to date with regard to GFIC, but there is a discussion about that in this forum

As far as the wiring diagram, from the switch panel, green goes to both forward and stern nav. lights, blue goes to the masthead light, yellow goes to the cabin lights, red feeds the panel from the battery and all negative returns are listed as white back to the battery.  That is all there is.  For actual physical routings of wires you can ask questions here.  Good luck with your project.  Send me a PM with your email if you want a copy of what I have.

[skyshadd]

Thanks Brackish!

[Bob23]

Sky:
   Is this the book you have?
http://www.amazon.com/Sailboat-Electrics-Simplified-Don-Casey/dp/0070366497/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1418423878&sr=1-1&keywords=sailboat+electrics+simplified

If not, buy it. Really helped me when I rewired my 1985 23/2. I'd do no electrical work without it.
Bob23

[MKBLK]

Sky,

If it helps, my 2 cents -

Amazon (new) 13.93 + mail or free mail w/Prime
Abebooks (like new) 5.58 + 3.99 mail

Marty K.

[skyshadd]

Bob23,

Yes sir, that's the one I have.

Thanks Guys!

[HeaveToo]

I have that book and it is a good one.

12V systems are pretty basic.  My advise is for you to draw up a wiring diagram based on what you have and what you have going in.  I am about ready to do my re-wiring project and I am adding a lot of stuff into it.  Eventually I am adding water pressure also into the system.

Based on my needs for more switches I wanted to add a new breaker panel into the boat.  Problem is the breaker panel is VERY expensive.  I am electing to add a second fuse panel into the boat with three switches.  The switch panel was cheap.

I am also adding in some bus bars to run wires into.  I will probably update the post when I am finished with the re-wiring.  The other trick that I have posted on here is labeling your wires so you know what wire is which.

Start back at the battery.  I am adding a second battery to my system in parallel to up my amp hours.  The positive lead from one battery goes to the positive lead of the other battery.  Same thing with the negative side.  Then I run the battery cable from the battery to a battery selector switch.  I have this in the system so I can kill any power drain coming from the batteries.  From out side of the selector switch runs to the first fuse panel.  This fuse panel has a jumper so I can wire it to the hot in the other fuse panel.

My Nav (running lights) go directly to the panel with the hot line.  The negative line will go to my negative bus bar.
My steaming light is also my anchor light, the wires just switch at the mast.  I run the hot from my steaming light into the fuse panel and the negative to the bus bar.

My auto pilot will run to its own switch on the fuse panel

My water pump will run to its own switch also.  I am considering doing this with my stereo in the boat.

The switch for cabin lights is a bit more complex.  A hot jumper runs form that to a small positive bus bar.  On that bus bar I have 4 12V outlets, the lights, and possibly the radio (if I don't run it to its own switch).

The switch for ACC is what I have for navigation communications.  It has a jumper from the panel to a bus bar.  On that bus bar I wired my GPS, depth finder, and, eventually, my VHF when I add it. 

So the alternator runs directly from the outboard to the battery. 

The solar, when I add it, goes directly from the panel to a charge regulator.  Then the charge regulator goes directly to the battery.

If you wire in a bilge pump that is the only electrical thing that goes directly to the battery.  You have to put an inline fuse into it too.

As far as the old wiring, let that be your guide.  You can sometimes use it to re-run the new stuff.  Detach it on one end and tape the old wire to the new wire.  Carefully pull it through on the other end.  If there are snags along the run pull from the area of the snags and move towards the panel. 

One other tip....I saved a ton of money by buying my wire on ebay.  There are deals out there if you know what you are looking for.

Buy marine grade wire and marine grade wire connectors.  The best connectors have adhesive shrink wrapping on them so after you crimp them you use a heat source to shrink them, thus they are water tight. 

If you do it right you will only have to do it once.  It will probably last the life of your boat, or longer!

Another helpful site would be http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
I have posted that site on here before.  it is a great resource.

[curtisv]

The CP23 electrical system is minimal.  I completely rewired my CP23 long ago.  The web page I started for my boat is very out of date but I think all the wiring stuff was done when this was written ... http://localweb.occnc.com/remote-access/projects_E_W.html.  (understatement alert)  Might be overkill for the way most CP23s are used.

Curtis

[skip1930]

Go to ' Goggle Image ' and type in " Com Pac yacht wiring diagram "

And you will see my two Posts [ how? I don't know ] . One showing my hand sketch on how to wire and run the Steaming Light properly through the switches.

And the one right next to it is the factory diagram from Com-Pac Yachts.

skip.

[Bob23]

   One thing I'll add is do it by the book, don't take shortcuts. A few years ago at a Barnegat Bay Bash, a member here almost lost his boat to an electrical fire that was caused by the previous owner's feeble attempt at wiring. Although it was extinguished quickly, it's never a good thing to see smoke billowing from your boat. 
   And I'll echo Heave's advice: Use only the best wire and connectors- marine grade only. Stay away from Wallyworld and your auto parts store.
Bob23

[HeaveToo]

I put together a tool bag for doing my re-wire job.  Here is my list:

Nice wire cutters
Wire Stripper (the good kind)
Ratchet Crimper
Heat Gun
mini butane torch
50' fish tape (to run wires)
Jewelers screw drivers
Multi Meter
Shrink tubing
Tape Measure
wire ties
Heat gun
Flash Light (also a head style flash light).
**Battery cable crimper** (Don't have this but I eventually want this)
Label Maker

The label maker is to label each wire when I run them.  Label at both ends so you don't have to spend all of your time tracing wires.  Use the clear shrink tube to seal the wire label onto the wire.

You CAN save money by getting components off of ebay.  Try to stay towards name brand stuff and make sure that it is pre-tinned.  Research what each place charges for stuff and then check ebay.  Careful shopping will save you some money.

[Bob23]

Looks like you have the tool thing covered.
One thought that came to mind, and an electric project on my back burner, is a main fuse between the battery and everything else. I don't know the proper name for it and I'm sure there is one.
Bob23

[relamb]

In the process of adding a 3rd battery to my CP 27, I installed ANL fuses right at each of the batteries.
Like these - a short new cable from the post to the fuseblock, and then the original battery cable to the other side of the fuse block.
http://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Cover/dp/B000K2K7TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420758622&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+anl+fuse
However, after I was finished, I discovered this type of fuse, which would have been much easier to install.

http://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420759395&sr=8-4&keywords=blue+sea+fuse
Although I have a terminal crimper and made my own battery cables, a good source for longer battery cables could be Tractor Supply.  I noticed they have battery cables for tractors that are 8-10' long.
Rick

[HeaveToo]

Bob23...You are talking about fusing the battery bank.  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_fusing