Floyd gets on the Water

[Floyd]

Sailors;

So I bought myself a 1981 Com-Pac 16. Got her on the water in Apollo Beach, Florida. I have some questions for my panel of experts (uh, that would be you!);

1)   POWER – the boat came with a 55 pound thrust Prowler salt water trolling motor. I have read elsewhere on this site that this motor was adequate for a Com-Pac 16 – NFW ! Two Saturdays ago it proved to be totally inadequate. We actually had to get a tow from a power boat to get back to the dock – oh the shame! Maybe the Prowler 55 might work on a calm lake – no way it works on Tampa Bay. Comments?

2)   POWER 2 – decided to compensate for my lack of mechanical skills with a brand new Lehr 5.0 propane motor ($1799 West Marine, ouch).  It has plenty of power for the boat. I may post further thoughts on it when I get more experience with it.

3)   NON-SKID- AIN'T. The boat has had what appears to be non-skid applied to the topsides. However, there is no actual 'grit' and it is basically slick as hell. I mean really slick. I do not think that the non-skid wore off, it looks more like just a good paint job with no non-skid grit. Not sure what happened there. But a future project will be to put real non skid down. Comments?

4)   The prior owner made a really cool strut that on the rudder. ( I cannot seem to post a picture, I do not know what I am doing wrong). This support is intended to stay on the rudder at all times. It is perfect for securing the mast when trailering. And it is not really in the way when sailing. I love the creativeness the prior owner showed with this and I thought that it might give the rest of you some ideas. I think that the prior owner must have trailer sailed a lot.  But, since my boat will be docked in Apollo Beach, this strut will be removed at some point.

5)   RUDDER IN WATER - I have noticed that my rudder stays partially submerged when in the upright position (90 degree angle). Is that correct? I would like to keep it out of the water when docked.

6)   RUDDER ORIGINAL - The rudder certainly looks to be original. I will upgrade to an Ida rudder at some point, but I want to get good and frustrated with the present rudder before I acquiesce to spending another $400 on a new rudder.

7)   RUDDER AND MOTOR – Ok, now the Lehr 5.0 has plenty of power for the boat. However, I had some real problems controlling turning. The rudder was 'up' at 90 degrees but still somewhat submerged. I finally figured out to use the motor and rudder in tandem, which worked, but I am thinking that cannot be right. It took a good 30 minutes to master it. What the hell am I doing wrong? Please be gentle.

8.)   I am thinking of stowing my Danforth anchor on the bow pulpit. What is the best way to attach the anchor here? Or is there a better solution? I plan to install a bow light on the deck, so a hawse pipe set up would interfere with the bow light. Or maybe I should put the bow light on the pulpit?

Floyd in Tampa Bay

[wordnut]

You'll get tons of advice here. About the steering--if the rudder doesn't risk hitting the motor in the down position, use it! Keep the motor straight and steer with your rudder down.

[Pacman]

5)   RUDDER IN WATER - I have noticed that my rudder stays partially submerged when in the upright position (90 degree angle). Is that correct? I would like to keep it out of the water when docked.

   A:  If, after raising the rudder blade, you tie your tiller to one side the ruder blade will come out of the water.  

6)   RUDDER ORIGINAL - The rudder certainly looks to be original. I will upgrade to an Ida rudder at some point, but I want to get good and frustrated with the present rudder before I acquiesce to spending another $400 on a new rudder.

    A:  I have made a "balanced rudder" by adding 3" to the front of the rudder blade below the water line.  It lightens the tiller and the added surface area prevents stalling.  This might be the "poor man's" custom rudder.  I live in Sarasota so you could borrow it for comparison to stock if you like.

7)   RUDDER AND MOTOR – Ok, now the Lehr 5.0 has plenty of power for the boat. However, I had some real problems controlling turning. The rudder was 'up' at 90 degrees but still somewhat submerged. I finally figured out to use the motor and rudder in tandem, which worked, but I am thinking that cannot be right. It took a good 30 minutes to master it. What the hell am I doing wrong? Please be gentle.

    A:  For really tight turns, try turning both the rudder and the motor at the same time with the rudder blade in the down position.  Your C-16 will turn within a tight radius using that method.  For normal use, secure the motor straight ahead aand turn with the tiller alone.

8.)   I am thinking of stowing my Danforth anchor on the bow pulpit. What is the best way to attach the anchor here? Or is there a better solution? I plan to install a bow light on the deck, so a hawse pipe set up would interfere with the bow light. Or maybe I should put the bow light on the pulpit?

    A:   If you install the anchor on the bow, you will have to climb out on the slippery deck to deploy it.  That might be fine for some but not for old guys who sail alone like me.  Try keeping it in the cockpit so you can deploy it over the side from your seat at the tiller.  A "retriever" line in put on the anchor line beore it it is deployed.  The anchor line is run forward from the cockpit to the bow, then back to the cockpit where it is secured on a cleat until it is needed.

Hope this helps.

Dave in SRQ

[Bob23]

7A is good...just make sure you don't drive your rudder blade into the prop. Not that I'd have firsthand knowledge about such a thing.

Bob23