Companionway Saloon Doors - A Good WINTER Project!

[Mike]

Hoping that you will endure a couple of additional questions about your elegant doors.  In viewing photos I have determined that the frame is 1/2 X 3 " stock, the actual door frames appear to be 1/2 X 2"  is that correct.  Also I am using lap joints throughout...does this negate the need for the bottom horizontal cross piece?  Your lap joints on doors run through on the rails (horizontal) rather than the stiles (vertical piece)...is there a reason for that or just design choice?  Also you mentioned that the slot immobilized the doors in for and aft movement...I don t understand how that secures the upper end without the hasp?  Thank you again for sharing a well done project.

[capt_nemo]

Mike,

Questions answered in order asked.

Not quite, the Frame that goes into the companionway slots, in place of drop boards, is ½" X 2" stock, and the door frames vary with verticals ½" X 1½" outside (including slot for inserts), ½" X 1¼" horizontals (bottoms), and the large curved tops to fit your pattern of course. These dimensions were chosen to MINIMIZE the intrusion into available companionway space while still providing exposed surface for mounting side hinges and providing a slight overlap of door on outside of frame.
You could increase the dimensions to suit provided that there is ample area left for easy entry to and egress from the cabin.

Lap joints throughout COULD eliminate the need for the additional bottom horizontal crosspiece that I used. BUT, considering the possible use (abuse) the bottom horizontal piece could suffer from guests or crew that don't step OVER it, you might want to consider adding it as a "Doubler" for extra strength.

Lap joints on the horizontal primarily design choice, thought larger curved top horizontal piece looked better as one continuous piece, and made bottom horizontal to match.

The slot immobilizes the outer frame and doors attached thereto (outsides and bottoms) in fore and aft movement. There is NOTHING against which the upper (top) middle joints of the doors can rest and still have an open companionway. So, I installed the pivoting wooden latch on the back of the starboard door top to rotate 180° and together with the wood flange overlap on that same door, "capture" the top of the port door to at least stabilize or secure the doors together. It does a decent job but you could still move the doors slightly where they join together. Full rigidity is obtained when the companionway slide is moved rearward overlapping (or somehow joining) the door tops, and the hasp is locked together. The forward edge of the companionway slide then becomes the phantom cross member that is needed.

Hope this helps to clarify.

capt_nemo

[Mike]

it does thank you ....I agree, by the way, the curved tops probably look better by your choice.