Best way to repair this ( Fiberglass Help)

[Mattlikesbikes]

I have a few spots under the rub rail that looks to me as if they took some impact at some point. This is the worst one.  As far as I know it could have been this way
for years and it looks like there was a previous repair there.  I have used Marine-Tex before to fill holes but that is as for as my experience goes.  

I was thinking of just cleaning the area chipping away all the bad gel coat and if the fiberglass underneath is in good shape just sanding down and using
filler or marine-tex.  Or is this something that will need the full treatment. Cutting out the bad glass and using new fiberglass mat.

I have a few other spots around the rub rail but this is the worst.

[capt_nemo]

Mattlikesbikes,

I'm assuming that the rub rail pulls off that easily all round. If it does, and there are indeed other places that look similar to the photo, the rub rail serves to capture water and keep it there for a while. This is not good since it exposes the edges of the hull to deck joint to WATER, which can wick inside the fiberglass damaging (weakening) it, and perhaps even find its way inside the boat.

What I'm about to suggest would involve a bit of work which would (1)permanently fasten the hull to deck joint together, (2) strengthen the joint to better absorb further future impacts, and (3)seal the joint against water/moisture intrusion. If you plan to keep the boat for the foreseeable future, some variation of what is described below should be considered.

Method 1:

After thorough cleaning, sanding, and preparation of the "joint" on both sides, above and below, cover the joint with two thin layers of fiberglass cloth "tape" well wetted with Epoxy, running lengthwise along the boat and wide enough to overlap the joint and extend a bit beyond, above and below, perhaps 3" or 4" Tape (can't tell from photo what size would work). You could work in manageable "sections". Sand smooth, paint white, and replace rub rail.

Method 2:

Same as Method 1 except that, instead of replacing the original rub rail, you Epoxy a long piece of Hardwood or even Starboard permanently over the joint, grooved to fit over the joint, and attach either ½" or ¾" stainless half round strips or rub rail material of your choice.

It is all a question of how much time, effort, and money you are willing to commit to the repair.

Hope this provides food for thought.

capt_nemo

[Mattlikesbikes]

capt_nemo thanks for the info

It is actually just two areas that are like that. The other area is on the other side.  The rub rail actually needs to be replaced it is in pretty bad shape
but it is  pretty tight until those spots which are towards the stern.   I do like the fiberglass tape idea. I might do that for just the affected areas.



As for time, effort, and money I have effort :-)   The weather has not been favorable for curing epoxy ( days in the 50's nights in the 30-40's) so I have a week or
two to figure out what I want to the do but I am going for the quickest and least expensive way.  My cousin is giving me some west systems resin and hardener he has left over
so I just need to pick up so mat and tape.

I attached a picture of the other side.

[capt_nemo]

 Mattlikesbikes,

Quickest and least expensive repair of affected areas sounds like a workable plan.

Best wishes on your repair job.

capt_nemo

[skip1930]

I agree,
Remove the black bumper strip that is held on with double sided sticky tape.

Your going to ONLY glass over area that the rub rail will cover.

The effected areas ... Clean it, pick out anything 'flakey or loose' sand it, but don't make a bigger hole.
Wash it, dry it, cut some fiberglass cloth to size. Find a wall paper roller, and some resign solvent.
Lay out everything. Make a table and cover it with some throw-a-way corrugated cardboard.

Mix up a can of resign and saturate the cloth by brushing on the resign right on the cardboard. Peel it off and pick it up and lay it down over the affected area. Center it up. Dip the roller in the solvent and roll out the air bubbles. Let it cure, sand it, and paint it.
Stick on the rub rail and call it good.

skip.

[Mattlikesbikes]

Capt_nemo and Skip I need some more advice :-)

My deck hull seam is in a little worse shape then I realized. I pulled of more rub rail this evening and it is ugly.  Besides the areas I posted before I also have a few areas
of delamination and a small crack through the joint.   I am not sure what the heck the previous owners where up to but it looks like I have my work cut out for me.

How does this sound clean up all the areas that are chipped sand them down a little and glass them.  For the areas that are delaminated clean them up and then fill with 5200. 
After that seal the whole seam with 5200 and use new duct tape over the seam and buy new rub rail.

For the really bad delamenated areas do they  need to be sanded flat ?

Macgyver if you are reading this any suggestions.

Keep in mind I sailed like this all last year and had no water coming in from the seam.  I would also like to be in the water by
May and having 2 young children my free time is limited.

[skip1930]

" How does this sound clean up all the areas that are chipped sand them down a little and glass them.  For the areas that are delaminated clean them up and then fill with 5200.  
After that seal the whole seam with 5200 and use new duct tape over the seam and buy new rub rail.

For the really bad delaminated areas do they  need to be sanded flat ? "

Too much work. Forget the 3M-5200 Slow Set. Wash the dirt off so the glass cloth can stick.
Sand the washed glass smooth so nothing loose hangs on, again so the glass cloth will stick.
Delaminated? That's why the saturated fiberglass cloth is placed on top of the joint, rolled around the edge [don't care about the delamination] and back up under the joint.
Bare in mind this is messy ... your resign is pasted on-over-and under the joint. Protect the hull from drips, mask it.

Then the saturated fiberglass cloth is placed on top of the laid down resign.
Rolling the air out of the fiberglass cloth is the most important part.
It's going to take a lot of rolling and a lot of acetone to keep the roller from sticking.
Your going to roll until the resign sets up and nothing more can be done.
 
When the fiberglass cloth is totally rolled out with zero air bubbles and zero sag under the lip ... let her sit a few days to cure.

Give it a quick lick and a promise with some 80 grit, wipe the dust off with acetone and when dry ... you can paint it and when that paint is dry, put on the double sticky sided tape and pound on the rubber rub rail. Put the metal ends back on and go sailing.

How else can you do it?

skip.

[capt_nemo]

I would agree with most of what Skip suggests.

It's really not that hard a job nor that time consuming. Remember, most of where you're working will be covered with a rub rail - no need to be careful or gentle.

BEFORE doing the fiberglass tape over joint step I would try the following.

Where the worst "delamination" or separation of layers exists, like that shown in your last photo, if the layers are flexible and can be pressed together (with force if necessary),  I would  rough up (coarse sand) all the inside surfaces, clean thoroughly inside the openings (final wipes with Acetone rags on screwdriver tips), mix up some thickened epoxy, work the epoxy into the cracks and openings as much as possible and then CLAMP together any way you can. Catch excess squeezed out for use elsewhere or discard and clean nearby areas with Acetone. Let "cure" for at least 24 hours. Be sure to "protect" clamps from the epoxy by using pieces of thin plastic film, like garbage bags or zip lock storage bags. You don't want the clamps to become a permanent part of your rub rail!

This will help to bring the hull to deck joint to a more uniform thickness along each side and permit a better, eye pleasing fit for the replacement rub rail.

Best wishes and good luck. Let us know how it turns out. We're all root'in fer ya!

capt_nemo