OK, gotta get this off...

[Vectordirector]

Pretty much the same set up and same problem on my 2005 Eclipse.  Mine tends to slide to starboard  I'm thinking the 1/4" shock cord just isn't strong enough.  I'm going to try a 1/2" if I can find one the right length.  My mechanical skills and tool inventory are limited.  Patiently waiting to see how this is finally fixed.

[brackish]

Brack,

2 things: First off, more pictures please of how this works...... I might need to mod mine and make something similar, not to mention I like what this possibly does, looks interesting.....

Also, If that rod goes port or starboard, couldnt you just get 2 plates for the tiller handle that are longer and install them so that it keeps that piece in there? That is my sketch up plan to avoid lateral movements on a mock up I have..... I just havent made a solid test device yet since at that time I was going to sell the boat.

Mac

I'll keep a picture history of this project and post here.

Yep that was the original plan (extend the yoke plates by either adding to them or making replacements).  That, however won't solve the gap problem so I'd have to either add a shim to the bottom of the existing delrin plate or the top of the stainless tab on the handle.  Thinking it is easier to do it all with a replacement delrin piece that eliminates the gap and locks it from lateral movement.  

What you can't see is on the casting just above the rudder pivot plate is a slot that when you lower the rudder into operating position, the lift arm rod is supposed to wedge into the slot and that, I guess, is supposed to keep the lateral tendency down.  Mine will not stay in there, pops right out.  After studying it for a while, I think it is a poor design.  As mentioned, Hutchins said to bend the bar until it works.  To expect to figure out the bend you need and then do it precisely enough to make it work is not reasonable in my view.  I'm the second owner, so I can't know for sure, but I suspect it has always been this way and the PO's just lived with it like I have been doing since I've had the boat.  

Of course the simple solution is to drill the casting and pivot plate and install a shear pin.  Then it won't matter where the handle goes.  I like to lift my rudder when dockside even though I can't get all of it out of the water.  I don't want to have to lean over the stern to pull or line up a shear pin every time I go out.

Skip, the Delrin piece is .420" and while it isn't absolutely necessary to get it off in one piece, it would be nice so I can verify the dimensions I took while it is in place and use it for a drill guide for the new piece.

[brackish]

Pretty much the same set up and same problem on my 2005 Eclipse.  Mine tends to slide to starboard  I'm thinking the 1/4" shock cord just isn't strong enough.  I'm going to try a 1/2" if I can find one the right length.  My mechanical skills and tool inventory are limited.  Patiently waiting to see how this is finally fixed.

Not sure that will help.  I actually tied a low stretch cord on mine (not while sailing), just to see if I could move it laterally.  Slides right over.  Putting more resistance fore and aft doesn't really stop the lateral, at least on mine.

[Vectordirector]

I agree that the rod seems to be bent.  I fits into the casting but the upper tab is not centered on the delrin when the rudder is down.  Definitely bent toward starboard with the tab all the way to the starboard edge.  I tried to bend it back gingerly, didn't seem to matter.  It is something I'm looking to fix when the boat comes out of storage.  The way this winter is going, it might be August!

[skip1930]

" Skip, the Delrin piece is .420" and while it isn't absolutely necessary to get it off in one piece, it would be nice so I can verify the dimensions I took while it is in place and use it for a drill guide for the new piece. "

What I do to establish a 'drill guide' once all the disassembly is over is to remove the heads of two throw-a-way screws and thread them down by hand. Once your Delrin block is ready, dab a drop of stiff paint on top of the screws and carefully touch the bottom of the Delrin block where it's suppose to go. Turn the block over and drill the holes. [If you build enough cars, you use this method a lot.]

skip.

[brackish]

Off   A little heat, a little PB blaster, tap, tap, tap, twist, read a book for a while, do it again, came loose on the second series.  Now starting to fab the replacement part that hopefully will solve the chronic problem.

[BruceW]

Brackish,

Glad you made it. I am interested in the project. I think I'll probably get the Com-pac rudder replacement, if I understand how to make it work. Perhaps when I see how you solve it, I'll feel better about it.

Maybe a side biz for you to make the supercool parts?

[Bob23]

PB is cool stuff, eh? It's amazing what some PB, a little heat, a bit of force and a boat load of patience can accomplish.
I'm a big fan of Never-Seeze. It goes on everything from spark plugs to lug nuts to any screw or bolt on the bolt. A thank you to Skip for turning us on to Marine Never-Seeze.
Bob23

[capt_nemo]

brackish,

YAY - SUCCESS!

Warms my heart to read it.

capt_nemo

[Citroen/Dave]

Caution with "Never Seize" type products.  Some have copper or other components that may start corrosion in a water environment, especially salt water. Just double check the composition.  I love the stuff.  I have had different brands through the years.  I don't know what is out there right now.

[Bob23]

True. I believe Skip turned me onto Marine Never Seeze which he states has no copper in it. I have not personally checked this out...but I will.
Bob23

[wes]

I've been using Tef-Gel for bolting dissimilar metals together, such as stainless bolts into cast aluminum fittings. It has no metal content, just PTFE which is kind of like Teflon (note that I'm an EE with no chemistry skills whatsoever . So far, so good. Not sure if this is the same application for which folks are using Never-Seize. One drawback of Tef-Gel is it's bloody difficult to find locally. Defender carries it but only in the 1/4 ounce size. I ended up ordering from Amazon in larger sizes.

Wes

www.tefgel.com

[Bob23]

That's exactly what I use Never-Seeze for- any ss machine screw that goes into the boom or mast gets a small dab. I also use in on my ground tackle. Shackles that have been submerged in salt water for 3 years even come unscrewed with only pliers and vice grips. I always use some scrap 12 gauge copper wire for siezing wire on the shackle. Works great and el cheapo!
Bob23

[skip1930]

Permatex Neverseaze in aluminum based powder.
Several reasons to use this lubricant. Mostly to get the fastener apart. And so you don't snap it off.
Because it's gopped-up and don't over tighten it up too much. Check the bottom of the chart.
If you really don't want 'it' to come apart go a bit longer, drill a hole find a castellated nut and insert a cotter pin or safety wire. Like ground tackle shackles.

skip.