CP23 Trailer

[jthatcher]

interesting info on the trailer for the compac 23..  i am seriously interested in getting one for Adagio..    i have been looking at new ones.. ranging in price from  lower 3000's to 5,000.00    any thoughts on aluminum construction verses galvanized?   jt

[Greene]

+1 karma to Brackish! 

Thanks a bunch buddy.  I got a jump start on the bunks today using your info. 

I searched eBay, Craigslist ( I use SeachTempest.com), local dealers, Com-Pac and MagicTilt Trailers for a usable trailer.  Search was for dual axle, 5000# capacity or greater, brakes on at least one axle, 22 - 24' boat design and preferably with lowboy style cross supports.  I didn't really care if it was aluminum, galvanized or steel as we sail in freshwater.  I would have liked to buy a shoal draft equipped trailer, but the only one I found was overpriced for it's condition.

I ended up with a dual axle, steel, 7000# trailer with new brake hubs, brake actuator, tires, and paint.  It will require about $100 in hardware to convert it to fit the 23.

I'll post some pics when I'm done setting it up.

Mike

[LConrad]

I have the same Performance trailer as in the pictures. There is a real easy way to extend the tongue another 3-4 feet beyond the orignial extension design. It really helps dunk the trailer and not the truck when launching. All you need is a large drill and a flexible brake line extension.

[Shawn]

Any more details on how you made the extension move further?

Thanks,

Shawn

[LConrad]

The trailer extension (inner square tube) has a pin that stops the travel at about 3 foot extension. If you remove the stop pin, the extension can travel much farther - and even pull completely out if you don't have the wheels locked or chocked. Naturally that would not be a good thing.

Start on level ground, chock the wheels, disconnect the brake hose, add a flexible brake hose extension and make sure there is no air in the brake line. Then you can pull out the extension another 3-4 feet or so. I pulled mine out to match the brake line extension.  Drill a new hole through the square extension tube and re-insert the main pin. For added security, mount a cable exactly that length. One end is on the extension, the other is on the main tube. That helps mark the right lengeth when you extend to the new length. I did not bother to extend the electrical. I just unplug it for launching.

I'll try to get a few pictures when the weather gets better. It was a very helpful modification. Stop on flat ground, chock the wheels, adjust the trailer jack for free movement, pull the pin on the inner extension tube, pull the main pin, extend until the cable stops the travel and insert the main pin. Now you have 6-7 feet of extension to launch the trailer and not the truck.

[BruceW]

I am also trying to upfit a frame trailer to support the CP 23. I'm working with a double axle trailer, and going to try to decide this weekend on whether to use a keel board or a roller setup like Brackish has showing. I found a trailer parts guy who will meet up with me Saturday morning to go over it.

Next thing is to get those upright pieces to support the bunks at the heights necessary. I will see what this guy has, and what he can get, then see where to go from there.

I appreciate getting to see the setup!

Bruce

[BruceW]

Anyone have a side view of their CP 23 on the trailer? I'm trying to visualize the boat,keel, etc for laying out the keel support an orienting the bunks to match.

[BruceW]

I ended up ordering some brackets from Loadrite dealer in New Bern, and I used a 2 x 10 keel board with some plastic slides. I used Brackish's measurements, and the boat retrieved and launched again post storm just fine.

I have some adjusting to do on the bunks, and one strange artifact to fix about the keel board.

There are 4 cross members, with the aft 3 being fairly close together. Then there's about a 5 ft gap to the front cross member. In that gap, the keel pressed a curve into the board. I will want to fix that. I'm thinking of getting some angle iron or 4 x 2 channel and going longitudinal between the cross members to shore up the front part of the keel board. I'll have a couple friends look at it and see what I need to do. One guy suggested just cutting off the board at the 3rd cross member and letting the keel overhang the 18" into the air.

I'll see about a picture and measurements later on.