Update on Teddy B

[Pat McL]

We have been putting some time in with our CP16. Have fabricated new bunks, new chain locker, done all the glass work,and have just leveled the sole with new concrete. We are getting close to refinishing the interior, and I have a question or two.

Has anyone been able to find a source for the original grey splatter-finish used in the early production boats? Should we use a different paint? We are going to glass/matt-epoxy over the concrete sole unless any better advice is offered.

Need to replace the compression post, and ours was so rotten, that we couldn't tell if it reached the sole, or was just bolted to the chain  locker front bunk plate, could someone look and let me know. Was also made from Honduras mohogany 31/2" round stock. Is there a source known for this?

(We documented pictures for all of this, but will have to learn how to upload to site if of any interest)   Thanks!!  
Pat and Suzy

[Mercrewser]

I believe Hutchins has a replacement Compression post.  It is bolted to the bulkhead and does not touch the bottom of the boat.  Paint should be entirely up to you.

[Pat McL]

Thanks for the reply. Will call Hutchins re post. Have almost finished glass-matting the sole over the concrete patch, and am pleased at the results! Teddy B isbeginning to look liks she did when we first bought her in '76. Interior paint next. Am thinking of glassing eyelets on the interior cabin walls to run 2 bungee-type cords along each side for life-jackets etc. (keep them out of the way).  
  Pat McL

[Craig Weis]

Go to AutoZone or other car place. I have used Grey Splatter Paint in restoration projects for car trunks with great sucess. You may find just what your looking for. Cheap, spray, try it on a test piece torn from a box and use it if you like it. skip.
My C-P 19 compression post is just screwed from the plywood into the post. Plywood is between the vee-birth and lower births and post does not touch the sole. It's about 1" up from the sole. Looks like 2~9/19" ss lag bolts to me with washers.  :shock:
If you making a compression post, mine is square. But if you want round just eight side it with a plain and sand her round. Keep in mind that to screw a lamp bracket to the post it easier and fits better on a square post. :wink:

In an effort to store more life jackets and other gear and provide access to the hull for two~2" dia through the hull holes for a depth and paddle wheel on the Raymarine Bi-Data 40 instrument, I cut and framed a 16" x 16" hatch just like the other two hatchs and storage compartments from the factory.  :idea:
The new hatch is in front of the compression post. I had to cut away some sprayed in foam to find the bottom of the hull to drill the holes. This little bit of foam is not going to keep the boat afloat when swamped, but is there to soften up the bang of the waves when beating into the wind. I hear no differance. :wink: skip.

[Pat McL]

Hi Skip
   Thanks! Will check out the paint. As far as post shape, square is good. I have a stock of Honduras Mohogany, and can fabricate from them. (I build stringed instruments, and here in Fla, Honduras stock is sometimes used to ship nursery plants from Central America. If one works around nails, some quite good wood can be had for next to nothing).
So, apparently compression load is taken by the plywood in tensile---wonder why Hutchins didn't go the sole with the post --seems to me to make more sense for full load bearing??
Don't think enough room is available for hatch idea on a 16, but I will do some measuring. ---Pat

[Craig]

My guess is the reason the compression does not go to the keel is that condensation will collect in that area. If the post went to the keel you would have a rotten post very quickly.

Also, I peeked inside Larry Brackens 1976 CP16 and, as I recall, there is no anchor locker, and the storage deck is lower, which means it is smaller than my 1980. It could have been modifed by a PO - don't know. I have an access hatch that is 6 inches round. Enough to get a sponge in to remove condensation. There is some foam forward of this area under the anchor locker (such as it is is!) but not enough area underneath to make it worth the hassle of putting in larger hatch.

Craig

[Pat McL]

Hi Craig,
  Teddy B definitely had a good sized oem chain locker with a decent size access hatch. Replaced it all to scale as I had the original, albiet rotten, parts to pattern off from. I used to keep a 50# bag of rocks under the hatch to counter the weight of my seagull outboard. (Fantastic little powerhouse--still have it). Made a world of difference in sailing performance by keeping her level on her feet! Will use a battery for weight to do same in the future.
 
 Makes sense about the post. Will follow through with the new one. Just laid the last piece of glass mat on the rear sole under the cockpit this afternoon. Getting much closer to finishing the project. Wish I had taken better care of her 20 years ago!!
---Pat

[Pat McL]

Found splatter paint grey/white at a local discount auto supply store here in Eustis, $4.99 per can. Bought em out (6 cans), and am very pleased that the rebuilt chain locker now matches the original cabin finish. Wish I could find the stuff in gallons to use with a paint gun, it's going to take quite a few of these cans to finish the job. On the bright side, the stuff has a nice texture, and hides bumps etc.
 Next: sand the glassed bunks and paint same way --- looking good- interior should be done in about a week, depending on customer load in the shop! -- Pat