Compac16 motor

[dnkohler]

I have a short shaft Johnson on my cp16. Problem is that with the motor bracket down I can not put down the motor handle as it interferes with the transom. I also can't lock the motor in place to allow steering with the rudder. It's very difficult to control this way. I'm thinking that a long shaft might do the trick but maybe will interfere with the main sheet rigging on transom? Anyone solved this problem? Any recommendations, maybe a motor size / manufacturer that works, .....preferably with gears! Other than this problem, my cp16 is working great after a summer on the Chesapeake. She's teaching me how to sail! Tnx Dan

[nies]

What year and size motor do you have?..................I have a 5 hp ,short shaft merc that works great, the tightener on side of motor will allow steering with rudder and handle is not a problem, made a DIY shift ext. to make it easier to reach............nies

[Jason]

Hi There,

I have a 2 year old Yamaha 4hp long shaft.  Very pleased with the motor, and the Forward - neutral - Reverse feature.  I leave the motor mount up all the time and just tilt the motor up when not in use.  The long shaft is deep enough in the water when motoring even with the motor mount in the up position.  Being able to use the motor with the motor mount in the up position provides enough room to maneuver the motor tiller around.  Still, there is not enough room to have the motor tiller down flat, it is up at about 45deg.  I move the motor tiller and the rudder tiller at the same time to achieve very tight turning radius when needed.  For longer distances with minor steering adjustments I tighten the motor down and just steer with the rudder tiller.  Careful to keep the rudder from swinging into the prop, especially when you're starting the motor.  I position the motor as shown in my avatar pic when sailing, it is out of the water and there is clearance for the mainsheet (barely),  twist the motor so that  the motor tiller is up, if I tried the rotate the motor with the tiller down when sailing the motor tiller would interfere with the mainsheet.

Jason

[Salty19]

Sounds like you need some spacers between the metal motor bracket and the wood or plastic motor mount, to move the whole motor out an inch or three.

My old 16 had a modification to it when I acquired it..basically shaved off some of the bracket lock lever on the forward side of the lever so the mount (and therefore motor) would rise up a bit further, which helped to clear it from hitting the transom/rub rail. It was only a small difference, but after I changed the mount out to a new one (identical, except the modification was not made), the difference became more noticeable in terms of clearance. It was tight-the lever touched the rubrail sooner, and that extra bit of play was gone.

By any chance is your outboard too big for the boat? Should be 6hp or less. Preferably 2-4hp

[dnkohler]

Sounds like I would do best with a long shaft. I will also take a closer look at the bracket to see if can make some adjustments there. Aside from my 5 hp Johnson, I also have a 3 1/2 Nissan Short shaft which has a bit more steerage room and a steering lock
but it has no gearing. That is not too much of a problem except with wind or current at the dock. Some day I'll be able to sail up to the dock! Also notice the  life lines on your 16 .... Those are going on mine over the winter. 

[skip1930]

" I can not put down the motor handle as it interferes with the transom. "

Me feels your pain. Set the engine further off the transom.
Should note that when motoring she squats so the engine is deeper than picture shows.

Two ways. Make the arms on the motor mount longer or hang the motor on a block off the motor mount.

Three things to consider.
1~Pulls the engine and handle further off the transom.
2~Places the engine deeper into the water. So a long shaft is not necessary.
3~Can allow the engine to tilt horizontally enough and not be in the water.

Over the years I added rubber blocks and an aluminum plate.
Then this season a wood block too.

skip. If I was to start fresh I'd just cut four longer bars for the motor mount.

[dnkohler]

Nice idea! This also seems to assure the rudder won't hit motor prop. Does the merc have gearing? Do you lock the steering on merc and then steer with cp tiller? By the way what's that line coming out of her to front of motor?

[skip1930]

" Nice idea! This also seems to assure the rudder won't hit motor prop. Does the merc have gearing? Do you lock the steering on merc and then steer with cp tiller? By the way what's that line coming out of her to front of motor? "


Yes the rudder if down it can not hit the rudder.
Yes FWD-N-Rev.
Yes I tighten the thumb screw so the motor stays where I put it.
Yes I can steer with the tiller and some times I coordinate a turn with both the tiller AND engine. So I turn 360 in the CP-19's length.
Yes that 'line' is the fuel line going to the engine from the on-board remote tank. Line goes through a scupper. **
Yes the nylon lines on the rudder are to ... 1-pull the keeper pin. 2-pull the pin out of the rudder head and allowing the rudder blade to swing up.
Yes this replaces the sheer bolt I started with. I'm going back to the bolt.

** All that plug in junk to deliver fuel to the engine leaked fuel and let in air causing a stalled engine. So ... I carried the motor into ACE Hardware and sized up a copper tube that fits into the round plastic receiver of the engine and I cemented a piece of it in place with Gorilla Glue. Gorilla Glue expands when what's it gluing is moistened. Next day check that the tube is clear of dried glue and slip the fuel line over the tube. No leaks. No air ingress.

skip.