Is the CP-16 The Right boat for me?

[hinmo]

hi - newbie here. Just sold my 25 Catalina, after owning several sailboats (up to 34 ft), and know realizing I need to simplify my life. We have decided we are pure daysailers and have no desire to overnite or cruise. Crew will be myself, and occasionally my wife and/or daughter. We are not interested in speed, but simplicity. A couple inquiries as I start my local search for a c16.

Is there that much difference between the boat years?
Does the self-bailing work when moored?
Does CDI offer a jib furler? How much?
How much to mod a sail with luff tape?
How long and how many people to rig a C16 at the ramp.
How does she handle 2 ft chop? Wet?
is 400 lbs for crew going to overload her?
Any hot spots to look at while I search for one? Compression post, chain plates, drain tubes, etc?

Thanks

[EclipseGuy]

The Com-pac 16 is a great boat, but if you are looking for sloop with rigging simplicity you might want to consider the Com-Pac Legacy or Com-Pac Eclipse as well. I own an Eclipse and can rig it in 15 minutes at the ramp by myself. Even if I have a friend along I ask them not to help me because it actually slows me down.

The nice thing about both of these boats is that the boom and mainsail stay rigged and ready to go, even when trailering.

Regarding your other questions, I can help with a few.

I added a CDI Furler to a Sanibel 18 I had about 4 years ago. It was $600. That included the cost of blocks and pad-eyes (complete system).

I had a sail shop add luff tape to a Sanibel 18 head sail about 4 years ago. It wasn't expensive but I don't remember the exact price. I think around $80.

I have had many trailer sailors and all of the 21 foot and smaller ones were easy to rig solo at the ramp. The Eclipse is by far the easiest. I would assume that the Com-Pac 16 shouldn't be difficult to rig solo.

- John

[skip1930]

Nothing wrong with a CP-16, I'd go bigger ... CP-19.
I need a deck so I can't recommend the new CP-18 footer, Eclipse.

Look at a Nonsuch built [no longer] by George Hinterhoeller.

Lengths, 22 foot to 33 foot, classic or ultra interiors. Cat boat with a wishbone boom.

skip.

[Short Sale]

If simplicity and quality are your goals then a CP 16 should satisfy you.  This site is full of good information on all of the topics you mentioned and much more.  Search for CDI Furlers, luff tape, etc. and you can find answers to your questions.  I have rigged my CP 16/II by myself many times.  Although it is helpful to have someone attach the forestay after raising the mast, it can easily be done single-handedly.

[hinmo]

update - i am looking at one 2 hrs away this weekend. I plan to bring cash. question is, the owner says he lost the stern mast crutch for transporting the mast on top of the boat. Does anyone have dimensions of the crutch/support and where does it attach to? Pics?
I will need to build one this week or bring some material and build something on-the-spot to support the mast.

Thanks

[sailen69]

Hinmo,
I wish I had a pick to post for you right now but I don't.  I will add a photo when I get home tonight. Kickingbug has a very simple mast crutch on his CP-16.  If you search this site for mast crutch you will find some different ideas.
Rich

[hinmo]

thnks sailen69- would appreciate a pic or link!

[Salty19]

hi - newbie here. Just sold my 25 Catalina, after owning several sailboats (up to 34 ft), and know realizing I need to simplify my life. We have decided we are pure daysailers and have no desire to overnite or cruise. Crew will be myself, and occasionally my wife and/or daughter. We are not interested in speed, but simplicity. A couple inquiries as I start my local search for a c16.

Is there that much difference between the boat years?-Try to get the version II or later, main difference being the bowsprit, nicer interior, hopefully less wear and tear (but not always).  Later years some had centerboards, lifelines. They cost a lot more though.  However, if you can get a good solid old version at a good price, adding a bowsprit is an option.  if the boat is solid and everything works well, that's more important to me than something I can easily add down the road, especially if the price is right.

Does the self-bailing work when moored?-Yes, water will drain from tubes in the cockpit out to sea at a mooring, no problem.

Does CDI offer a jib furler? How much? Yes, about $450. Check defender.com for the FF1

How much to mod a sail with luff tape? Call sail rite or a sail maker, probably $50-$75.

How long and how many people to rig a C16 at the ramp. Depends.  One with the right "system" (lines, blocks, pole, etc). Also one if you have the dexterity and can manage lifting it all the way up and holding it with a halyard while you put in the forestay clip. Otherwise, two.

How does she handle 2 ft chop? Wet? Not too bad at all, the 16 cuts through chop surprisingly well!. Sure, some water is going to splash, but not soak you.
I'm reminded how much the CP19 pounds each time we see waves. Our old 16 glided through waves with less drama.

is 400 lbs for crew going to overload her?  Not at all, but you'll want weight forward-say 75lbs, for balance when carrying 400 aft in the cockpit.  They can take a lot of weight for their size.

Any hot spots to look at while I search for one? Compression post, chain plates, drain tubes, etc? All of them. Remember the small parts like chainplates are cheap and easy to replace, look for a solid/straight mast and boom, engine mount, rudder cracks, sails,signs of leaks, rotten wood, degraded concrete in the keel (peel back carpet and look for loose gravel), rudder slop, chips/scratches in gelcoat and glass, bottom of keel for scars/signs of bad or needed repairs.

Thanks

[sailen69]

Hinmo,

I took some picks and measurements of my mast crutch.  I am sure you could put something like this together quick and cheap if you pick that CP-16 up.  I took this idea from the one I had seen on Kickingbug1s' boat.  I can't find a good photo that shows his mast crutch in good detail.



He supports the stern end on the mast on a 2X4, or maybe a 1x4, which is bolted onto the rudder assembly.  He used longer bolts through the assembly where the rudder and tiller attach, and then he slides the mast crutch over the bolts and adds wing nuts to keep it in place.  He has screwed a couple of 2x4s and added an old scrap of carpeting for padding at the top to hold the mast.  He then secures the mast to the crutch with some bungee cords.

I have tried a few other things and this is what I have come up with as a homemade option.  I had a scrap of ¼ in. aluminum angle stock and a welding buddy that owed me a favor.






The main vertical piece is close to 4ft.  I wanted to reach the top of the crutch from the ground, to strap the mast down, or put on the Windex (when I don't forget).  I used 3/8"x3" bolts with wing nuts at the rudder and tiller attachment holes.  I used a ½" thick spacer at the rudder bolt to keep the crutch in line. A few washers or a nut will work ok for a spacer if needed.   I use a couple of those black tarp straps, 31", on the stern and on the bow pulpit along with some padding.  I also use a couple of 1"x10' ratchet straps.  One at the stern cleats, around the mast a few times.  On long trips I may put a second strap from the Jib cleats.  The straps are just tight enough to keep from flapping in the wind with a few twists in them.  They can give the mast some stability and dampen some vibration.  Too tight could cause other problems. 

On many of my trailering trips I secure the mast to the bow with some padding and straps or to the mast step with a cloth pad and the 3/8"x3 mast blot




I would make a few suggestions if you want to make something like this before you see the boat.  1. Make the vertical part 48".  That should be more than tall enough and you can easily cut down to where you like it later.  2.  Make the saddle part 3 inches wide inside and 4 inches deep.   This will allow enough room for the mast to have some padding and move some as needed.  4.  Take a cordless drill with you and drill the 3/8" holes after you get the boat.  Use the rudder assembly to mark where to drill.  It will only take a few minutes and the holes will line up exactly.  5. Don't forget to take some kind of padding and a way to secure that padding in place.  Some old shop towels or polishing cloths.  Some electrical tape will could come in handy to hold the padding in place for now and could also be used to secure any flopping cables.   
Hopefully this can give you a few ideas.  Keep it simple works pretty good most of the time.

Good luck,

Rich

[hinmo]

Hi - I picked the boat up yesterday, the PO had his old crutch available. It was wooden and had some rot. I shored it up and managed to make the 200 mile trip home.

[Winded]

Hinmo,

Here is my approach to securing the mast and boom to the boat for transport and storage.  The PVC pipe is reasonably priced and easy to work with, completely maintenance free. 
The aft support has two horizontal pieces used as the base and sit atop the seats.  I didn't glue these so they could swivel allowing the support to be stored flat or taken apart for stowage.  I just use the mainsheet to secure the rig to the boat eliminating the need for additional lines and straps.  An additional benefit is the fact that the mast can then be used as a ridgepole to support a tarp when the boat is stored in the off season.

(I hope this works, first attempt at posting a picture.)

[kickingbug1]

  at least rich kept my face out of the picture