Easiest (least work) way to get hull looking decent? - Update

[Cevin c Taylor]

Now that I have gotten most of the "must do" projects more or less done, I'd like my '83 16 to look a little better.  The hull is unpainted, and it has peeling bottom paint on the wetted surface.  I'm interested in making it look better, but I don't want to get into a major project.  I have done research on this issue, but I'm a bit overwhelmed by the info out there.  When I rub my hand across the off white hull, my hand is covered with a fine layer of chalky white material.  I believe this is oxidation.  I also have the faded and half -peeled name of the boat from a previous owner on the side.  Is it possible to just sand the original hull down to a certain point and then wax it to make it look decent?  I'll try to post up some pics.  Last night I took 220 grit paper on a small area of the transom and sanded it down until it was much smoother, and then I put some Turtle Wax (the car type) on it, just as an experiment.  It looks better, but I'm wondering if I should have gone with a finer grit paper.  I've read some things about people having bad experiences with rubbing compounds - that the colored compound gets in the small pits in the surface and causes discoloration.  So is sanding the way to go?  I also noticed there is significantly less "drag" on the part I experimented on than on the nearby part of the transom that is in the original condition.  I would think that working on the hull and getting it smoother would lead to some increase in speed in the water.    Maybe I should just bite the bullet and paint it, but I'd rater avoid that.  I have a lot of other house projects to work on, and time is limited.  

The cockpit and deck areas have the same oxidation issues, but some crazing as well that I'm going to have to deal with.

Any thoughts on how to attack this?

[crazycarl]

i had the same issue as do many us with older boats.

i started sanding with 320, to 400, and finally 600 grade.

then i used 3m fiberglass restorer and polish.

i did the hull above the waterline and all the smooth parts of the deck.

i used my dewalt orbital sander on the hull and hand sanded the deck.

2 weekends start to finish on a 19.

it will remove all your fingerprints and make your arms feel like lead, but the white chalk disappeared, and the original color came back to a point.

salty 19 did a nice write up about doing "island time".


carl

[brackish]

Just an opinion, but I've done both and it is far easier for me to paint than to bring back the oxidized gelcoat.  You have to prep to paint but only to about 180 or 220 grit depending on what you are using.  In my opinion, after doing all that work, the wax doesn't last then the gelcoat oxidizes again and your starting over.  If you paint and use a catalyzed polyurethane, it is done and UV protected for years even if you don't wax it periodically.  Prep it, tape off the waterline and rubrail with a wrap of paper over the deck, 30 minutes with a spray gun and done.

Some folks have had good luck with products like Polyglow but I've not used it.

[capt_nemo]

As brackish says, there are certain advantages to the application of a "Quality" Marine Paint. However, assuming that the Gel Coat is in good shape, but badly chalked, I would recommend the following:

DO NOT SAND WITH ANYTHING!

First, go over the entire hull with as MILD a rubbing compound as possible to achieve the resultant "shine" you want. If noticeably chalked, I would try 3M MEDIUM Rubbing Compound first and HEAVY Rubbing Compound only if absolutely needed. Try it on a small area to see what works best.

Second, go over the entire hull with 3M Finesse-It II Glaze to "polish" it nicely.

Third, finish up with a good coat of Collinite No. 885 Heavy Duty Paste FLEETWAX. Wait a few days and apply a second coat!

That should do the job nicely and keep her looking great for quite a while.

Be sure to use a good quality Polisher/Buffer with the proper application, removal, and polishing pads.

Since my boat hulls (yes, more than one) are in great shape, I skip the compounding and go straight to the Finesse-It II and then the Fleetwax with great results.

capt_nemo

Borrowed a friend's "Mancave" for the last polish/wax job. Air Conditioned, creeper, lights - thought I had gone to sailor's HEAVEN!

[Craig]

Concur w/Capt Nemo. Do Not Sand!!!! The gelcoat is really thin and once you sand (aargh) it away , the ONLY option is painting. Go gently and you will be surprised at what you can achieve. Some folks have achieved excellent results using Polyglow. You may want to check it out as well.

[philb Junkie19]

I find I have become more satisfied with "decent" and less satisfied with things that keeps the boat out of the water.  I was surprised how much better the topsides on my 16 looked after a light washing with a red abrasive pad, 3M I believe, that I had bought to remove amine blush from epoxy, a bucket of water and some all purpose cleaner. The sailing season here is short and my only project not on hold is to put hinges, gasket and a hasp on the lazarette hatch which can be done at the dock.  Taking "decent" to the next level I had very good luck with Petit Easypoxy, a single part, out of the can paint, on a previous boat that got it's share of complements.  It was still looking  good when I sold it 3 yrs later. Can't say after that.  If I was thinking about a paint job in the near future I would hold off on the wax.

[Salty19]

I'm pro-sanding with high grit (800, then higher), 3M imperial compound, Finesse It II polish (both applied with polisher), then Collinite Fleet wax.

But the gelcoat is thin, so long as you aren't sanding with lower grit, and only doing so maybe every ten year or so, I think you'll be OK.

Just using compound on a chalk hull is going to be a pain in the butt, it won't come off easily at all.

[MacGyver]

Without seeing it that is hard for me to say solidly a opinion on what to do.
Customer from the little boat harbor came in with the same question. My answer was similar to these guys, but the big deal is commercially (when I interned doing auto body work) I bought a really nice Milwaukee buffer. Not a random orbit job like you normally find in stores. This just spins.
This coupled with a foam pad, Starbrite heavy oxidation remover and some time she will loom like new.
Follow up with light duty compound, washing that pad out from side to side.

Then wax that hull and she should look good as new. I am hesitant to tell anyone to sand on a hull with sand paper..........some people have little experience with sanding things and get crazy on it.

It is hard to screw anything up with the buffer..........just costs money which there in is a problem
You get to a point where it might be easier to paint it.

Mac

[Cevin c Taylor]

Thanks a lot for all the input.  I'll be doing some further research based on what you've given me, and I might have some more questions, but this gives me a good place to start.

capt_nemo - Great looking boat!  And awesome man cave! 

[Cevin c Taylor]

Well, I thought I would give my experience after trying a couple of things.  My intention is not to take issue with any of the advice given by any of the members here - just to share my experience and results.  I got an electric polisher/buffer, and bought some of the 3M rubbing compound, and 3M Finesse It.  I spent quite a bit of time using it, and I got what I thought were pretty unsatisfying results.  One thing is that I was always unsure if I was using enough compound or not.  I watched several videos on how to do it.  It seemed like I was always slinging the stuff around and then ending up with a nearly dry bonnet on the polisher.  I tried various speed settings and amounts, but never felt like I got the hang of it.  NOTE:  I was using a $40 Harbor Freight polisher purchased specifically for this job.   In addition, it made a real mess slinging the compound around.  I got it on the trailer, woodwork, fittings, etc.  It was also hard to get anywhere near fittings with the polisher.  I ended up using two bottles of rubbing compound, at $16 or $17 each, plus the Finesse It, at about the same price.  I did the hull and the cockpit.  I waxed the hull, and it looks OK, but not as good as I had hoped. 
As an experiment, I also got some good 3M sandpaper, 400, 1000, and 2000, along with some Maguire's polishing compound.  I did the exterior wall of the cabin (facing the cockpit) with these, wetsanding the surfaces.  I like this approach better for several reasons.  One is time.  To use the polisher I had to drag out the electric cord, hook up the polisher, etc., and I always got covered in polishing compound, which doesn't smell that great.  Then there was the cleanup, taking everything apart, etc.  With all the time involved, it was not really worth it to do a small area, which means that I was really limited to weekends, in which time is precious.  With the sanding, I could go out with the sanding block and some paper, along with a bucket or large cup of water and do a small section here and there as I cooled down from riding the exercise bike in the evening.  Doing 10-20 min of work was no big deal.  I also felt I had more control over the sanding with my hand than with the polisher.  Sanding down to 2000 and then using the Maguires gave me a better shine than I could get with the compound and polisher.  I could also work around things much better.  I also think that the paper route is cheaper.  Each packet of paper costs about $4 at Walmart, and I've used a total of about $4 so far (but note that I have only been working on the cockpit).  The paper holds up well for wetsanding.  So, all in all, for the reasons noted above, I'm going to continue to use the paper/Maguires route for the rest of the boat. 

[brackish]

I also think that the paper route is cheaper.  Each packet of paper costs about $4 at Walmart

Your WalMart carries 1000 and 2000 grit paper?  Around here it is either online or the local Body Shop Supply store.

[Cevin c Taylor]

Brackish - I was surprised, too, but they do.

[capt_nemo]

When you find a technique that works well for YOU - meeting specific requirements - go for it. No apologies expected or required.

Happy sanding and polishing!

capt_nemo

[skip1930]

Maguire's polishing compound #42 by hand.
Wax on, wax off. Nu Finish in the orange bottle by hand.

Some people use Bar Keeper's Friend or Soft Scrub, but I think that's too aggressive.

skip.