visited my boat today

[skip1930]

I forgot to mention that those four 2 inch rubber blocks provide for a new aluminum plate and LOWERS the engine's factory phenolic mounting plate. Thus placing the engine two inches further into the water... as well as further back behind the transom.

skip.

[Tom]

Just a thought,  you might cut a square of 3/4" marine plywood (say 8"x 12") and place it between the motor mount itself and the stern of your boat.  Just get longer mounting bolts.  Now the engine mount and engine are 3/4" further from the boat and might cure your tilt problem.  You could use thicker plywood or lumber if you need more room.   Tom   

[skip1930]

Just a thought ... I can't make myself to place a square of plywood over my beautiful fiberglass transom just to 'space out' a motor mount. I'd work from the mount out.

Over time that plywood will open up, split, and look like heck. No matter how many times I coat it with something.

skip.

[Bob23]

Plywood, no. But a piece of Starboard might be nice.
That being said, I used plywood coated with epoxy when I spaced the gudgeon off the transom to make room for a downhaul line for the foiled rudder. I then painted it bronze after priming and it's held for 4 years so far. No splitting or delamination.
Bob23

[Tom]

Make it out of teak if you want.  Make it as big as you want or just a little bit bigger than the engine mount base and you'll not even see it.  The point being, once you move the "mount" and engine further from the stern, you have room to tilt the engine and the locking bar for the mount does not hit the stern when the motor is raised.  No new holes to drill in your boat, so If you don't like the look of it when your finished, just unbolt it and use it on the inside as a backing plate for your engine mount. 

[BruceW]

I'm thinking that since the original holes are still apparent, it won't be too hard to drill them out and then I can use the same bolts, etc, AS LONG AS the plywood backing plate inside the boat is movable. With my luck, it's stuck there with 5200. If that is the case, I'll probably want to put an extender block in.

I like the starboard idea, but haven't seen any thick pieces anywhere.

Wouldn't be too hard to come up with a piece of some kind of wood to put there either. I see these around on other boats. Decisions, decisions.

[NateD]

I like the starboard idea, but haven't seen any thick pieces anywhere.

You can get HDPE up to 1" thick off Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Density-Polyethylene-Opaque-Off-White-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDN3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1398104577&sr=1-1), but it is only 12"x24", not sure if that will work for the motor mount. Also, I don't know how UV resistant the stuff is. I bought some 1/2" recently to keep on hand for backing plates (where it won't be exposed to the sun).

[BruceW]

Looks like I could get a 12 x 24, saw in half, double it up and have plenty, if that's the way I need to go.

[MacGyver]

That is what I did to mine, worked well, the HDPE was 1.5 inches thick.



Mac

[BruceW]

Well I went with a workaround one of the other club members suggested. I put a 2 x 4 block in to keep the motor tilted. The block is tied on with line, and works great! Easy peasy.